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Clutch slipping, can it be adjusted?

crazywelder72

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it's just the neglect form the previous owners. All that bad fuel and sitting took out the HH in the beginning and flooded the CC. Which in turn leaked out the rear main soaking the clutch.

It was more of a chain reaction affect than the truck being a PITA. But it does seem that way.
 

crazywelder72

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Winchester Ma
WOW.... After last weeks stress about ordering a second rear main because i forgot about the TNJ Murry order I originally placed I tried to contact them.

I called the number and left a message. Sent a email with their "contact us" form and I never got a response form either one.

I called again today and got a person who was looking up my order. It was on back-order but they neglected to tell me. No emails, No phone calls... I thought that was very considerate of them.

Since i accidentally already ordered a second one form a different source, They didn't fight me when I asked to cancel my order.
 

crazywelder72

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The poor service from TNJ just hasn't stopped.

My original order was on 7/30/12. After not hearing anything about it I sent them a email inquiry and a phone call on 8/7/12.

I didnt have any response to either attempt so I called again 3 days later on the 8/10.

Finally i spoke with someone and they told me that the part was on back order. I asked why wasn't i notified that it was on back order? Especially after i contacted them TWICE. The phone was silent..then " ugh... um.... maybe the email went to your spam :whistle:"

ah.... no It didnt :evil:

I said i wanted to cancel my order. They said that wont be a problem. Great the Order canceled... (8/10)

Tonight (8/14) I get a reply to my 7day old email that says my order will ship tomorrow. :doh: :cookoo::cookoo::cookoo::cookoo::cookoo::cookoo::cookoo::cookoo:

WOW>>>>

I wont order from them again and i wouldn't recommend them after this.
 

doghead

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Who have you been speaking with? I'm guessing Juanita.

You need to speak with John, or you'll get no definate answers.
 

crazywelder72

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I don't recall the name of the person i spoke with a few days ago but it was a Lady.
The email tonight came from Halie.

Too bad John doesn't know about how bad the experience has been for weeks now with this order. I did everything right as a customer, I ordered..... after a week I submitted a email using their contact us, I called twice... Other than driving down there and hopping behind the counter and pulling the order myself and shipping it to myself, I dont know what more i could have done?


The pathetic thing is how the multiple opportunities to get to the bottom of this it fell apart every step of the way.

I have ordered form them once before and had no problem. But i don't see myself giving them the opportunity to fail again. This was BAD!
 

crazywelder72

New member
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Location
Winchester Ma
clutch parts cost

Have flywheel resurfaced: $60 (local)
Speedy sleeve: $69 (advanced auto)
Rear main seal $24 (ebay)
Pilot bushing $18 (Erik's)
Throwout Bearing $40 (Erik's)
Clutch disc $88 (ebay)
Pressure plate $143 (ebay)
Chain fall $45 (harbor freight)
Trans output seal $21 (ebay)

So the total for the clutch replacement was $508 with the included shipping on some parts.

And a BIG thanks to the Gymp.
:beer:
 

Beyond Biodiesel

Active member
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Location
Prescott, AZ
How about some part numbers so we all can have a shopping list to work from?

PS: it does not look like anyone sells a clutch kit for the deuce anymore.
 
Last edited:

balsa

New member
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Location
Seattle

I guess you've gotten it back together and I'm late to the party, but if not;

"to reinstall the flywheel, there is one hole that is not concentric with the rest of them. It's not off by much, but it will only work in one position." #Post 65

Make a paper pattern.

If you haven't already put the flywheel back on you might try putting a sheet of paper on the flywheel. Tape it to hold it in place and then using some charcoal pencil or lead pencil smudge the lead with your finger over the bolt holes. Place a mark on the paper and on the flywheel so you know where exactly the paper fits on the flywheel. Cut out the bolt holes with an exacto or razor. Put the paper back on the flywheel while it's still comfortably on the ground or bench and relocate it. *Thread the bolts in by finger; always by finger first to avoid cross threading and really being sorry.

*Note; personally I would try to number the bolts by using a fine paint brush when the bolts are in the flywheel going through the pattern when it's on the work bench. Number the pattern to the bolts as well. You have to be accurate as possible with this in the cutting out of the bolt holes in the paper pattern if this is going to work. You might be able to just push the bolts through the paper to obtain the pattern. This is the best practice to assure that when you're struggle underneath with that mass of metal that you only have to do it once.

Mark one bolt with a paint mark on the head. That will be your key bolt. Mark the paper pattern where the key bolt is located, put a paint mark on the hole in the flywheel that bolt fits in to, *naturally the side facing you when you're under neath that pigglet. Don't ask why I'm being specific. That should be enough to properly orient the flywheel when you're ready to reinstall.

But wait...there's more

Now take your paper pattern and go back under the truck and arrange it to fit the bolt hole pattern using the flywheel bolts. Mark the location of the Key Bolt.
Now you're ready to attempt to reinstall the flywheel.
 
Last edited:

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
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Location
western alaska
the duce has a ceramic 4 puck disc if you don't use 1 st gear to start out in you will bw doing this again in short order. un these big clutches you always want to start in first at idle than progress up from there and minimize slipping the clutch.
 
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