Cold weather radiator and battery issues

[UPFINN]

My cold weather issue is this: Is it too cold to go outside? If the answer is yes, the truck can wait till Spring.

I wish it could wait but I need to use it.

Well I let the torches warm up so they worked again and after heating one of the 1/2 inch npt plugs in the manifold for about a minute I was able to get it to move with the wrench and hammer. Next up is the temp sensor. I want to get that loose as I will likely have to take it out to get to the 3/8th plug below it. The sensor takes I think a 15/16 socket, but the socket collar is pretty narrow so the wrench was trying to round the corners. I don't have a 15/16 deepwell and I'm afraid to use heat. Might try locking pliers and a cheater pipe.

I tried getting the 3/4 inch npt plug out of the water pump but my torch quit working so I couldn't heat it enough. Will try again tomorrow.

Depending how this goes I might need to find a 15/16 deepwell along with a few 8-point sockets.

I measured the plastic battery box in the truck and it is only 12.5 inches wide. Only enough room for walmart 850cca everstart maxs, 6tls, or perhaps a referb group 27 battery. Right now I will likely just get the everstarts. Would like a group 31 but they wont fit

 

[rideoffroad]

Hey if you need a hand? I got tools call me 360-1438 Ed

 

[Another Ahab]

I got my torque multiplier from http://www.cheaterwrench.com/. Yeah it's probably from Asia due to the cheap paint and metal defects but it is pretty beefy, seems to work good, and comes with a nice assortment of impact sockets, including a metric equivalent 1.5 inch hex socket and a square budd socket.

Thanks for the reference UPFINN, I just checked out the site, and the tool (torque multiplier) is covered by a lifetime warranty.

Presuming that the seller stays in business for a good long while (probably the REAL issue), then "what's not to like?"!

 

[UPFINN]

Thanks for the reference UPFINN, I just checked out the site, and the tool is covered by a lifetime warranty.

Presuming the seller stays in business for a good long while (WHICH might be the real issue), then "what's not to like?"!

I actually tested the tool today. Was a bit clumsy to get on but once I got it on the lugs it broke them loose in a few turns. I was able to loosen the nuts on the rears that I couldn't budge with a 1/2 inch impact or a cheater bar on the basic issue tire iron. To retorque you reverse the process and put the nut back to original position. One thing I noticed is that it seems like the budd nut is turning with the lug so I will have to get a pork chop wrench. It is important to remember the nuts are reverse thread on the drivers side. It would be really easy to snap a stud with this thing if your going the wrong way.

 

[Hainebd]

This time of year all this should be done. Only repairs due to breakage not general maintenance work.
When you charge a battery it will warm up. Put a trickle charger on over nite bats will be warm and hot. Check your battery connections and opposite end to frame and relay. Antifreeze is a must. If you have to tarp the front of truck to ground to work in.

 

[UPFINN]

All fluids on the truck were good, along with breaks, filters, etc. Maintenance was planned for warm season. However, the leaking radiator was an unexpected event. I figured while I flush and repair radiator I might as well install accessories.

Battery connections are good. Only issue I noticed is that when I disconnect one battery cable and take a volt reading I'm still getting voltage through the system with the main switch open. Getting about 1.5 milliamp current draw also. There is a small short somewhere. When I take a ohm reading between the two disconnected cables there is resistance. I would think it shouldn't read anything.

I'm picking up the supplies and bigger batteries and around Christmas when I can get access to the garage I plan to make a winterization tutorial about installing a coolant heater, cab heater, battery size, coolant hose fitting size, fuel additives, etc. I might install a trickle charger or battery heater but I'm not sure.

 

[mjcdetroit]

I have just discovered a small amount of coolant on one of the same bolts but not really any dripping onto the driveway below. However, I tested anyway; the concentration looked good.

I installed a block heater into the water pump and if I had to do it again I'd get the circulation tank type instead.

Good luck.

 

[UPFINN]

Ok the 850cca batteries are in. They just barely fit in the box. When I hit the button the starter chugged to life at 300rpm. Still didn't start. Activated the ether while cranking and nothing. Seems like I am not getting any fuel, or these batteries are still too small.

I looked in the fuel tank and the diesel is very thick and cloudy. Last time I filled up the tank was over a month ago when it was still in the 40s. It appears I have summer diesel which begins to gel between 14 and 0F. Temps the past week have been barely getting above 15F and lows have been around -10F.

It appears the truck is dead in the water right now. Got to get it moving to get to the shop. My next options are to wait for it to warm up (if ever), run a pipe heating cable along fuel lines, or use the propane heater under the truck with a tarp. This seems like a fire hazard though.

As you can tell this is my first time dealing with diesel vehicles in the winter. I remeber when I was still in school my friends diesel pickups were some of the last to leave and on cold days some never did!

Talking to those around here who use diesel trucks daily, they make sure they have the winter diesel, ether, additives, block, oil, or coolant heaters, and bigger batteries. I guess high compression and large batteries still aren't enough.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Might help to have an oil pan heating pad. If you keep the oil warm the engine will spin over faster.

 

[UPFINN]

Well the weather finally warmed into the teens and 20s and after adding some PowerSystem cetane/anti-gel to the diesel along with heating the engine with the salamander I was able to get it started. After the additive was able to circulate through the tank and lines the the truck would start cold fine down to 10F with the throttle lever out a few notches. Don't even need to use the ether!

I noticed yesterday that the air tanks and air pack had froze so I added some rubbing alcohol and air tool oil to the output line on the compresser and after letting the truck run for about 20 minutes everything was fine. Had to pump and brakes, run the wipers, and pop the ice out of the air tank ball valves with a nail to get everything moving. Will for sure have to add one of those alcohol sniffers on the compressor.

This evening I will be borrowing some 8 point sockets to pull the npt plugs on the water pump and mainfold with the breaker bar. Using a torch, power lube, hammer, and wrenches just isn't doing it. If they round off I don't know what I will do.

I am nearly ready to begin my repairs and should have access to a garage sometime in the next week or two.

 

[Hainebd]

That is showing Mother Nature who is the boss. Now this may help. If you have access to a stick welder when all else fails try to stick the end of a welding rod to the center of the plug. 1/8 rod will do fine at 80 to 90 amps. You don't want to strike an arch just stick the rod there till the welding rod turns orange. Unclamp rod an let cool. The plug should back out. Wrap water pump with wet rag before starting and let cool slowly. If you can weld a little. Weld a nut to the plug. The weld should only be in the hole of the nut. Also 316 ss rod works best for this.

 

[UPFINN]

That is showing Mother Nature who is the boss. Now this may help. If you have access to a stick welder when all else fails try to stick the end of a welding rod to the center of the plug. 1/8 rod will do fine at 80 to 90 amps. You don't want to strike an arch just stick the rod there till the welding rod turns orange. Unclamp rod an let cool. The plug should back out. Wrap water pump with wet rag before starting and let cool slowly. If you can weld a little. Weld a nut to the plug. The weld should only be in the hole of the nut. Also 316 ss rod works best for this.

I do have access to a welder but fortuneatly I didn't need it. I borrowed some 8 point sockets from my neighbor and was able to use the 20 inch breaker bar. Those plugs took quite a bit of heating with the torch but they finally backed out. I also was able to loosen the corroded temp sender. Everything is good to go for the repair

Next thing to get to is the drain petcock near the oil temp sender. Not much room to get any leverage and I need to pull it out to replace with a tee to run a line to the circulating tank heater. Will wait until it's in the garage. Until then I am going to mount the heater core, run the ducts, and install the alcohol sniffer.

 

[UPFINN]

Finally got most of my supplies together. Just need a few bolts, hose clamps, ducts, and a new blower motor. Out of picture is the distilled water and more coolant.

 

[welldigger]

I highly suggest an air dryer instead of an alcohol evaporater. It keeps the water out of the tanks, lines, airpack, etc. This also helps deal with rust and prevents freezing.

If you already have the evaporater then they work excellent also. Just the old school way of doing the same thing.

 

[Another Ahab]

I highly suggest an air dryer instead of an alcohol evaporater. It keeps the water out of the tanks, lines, airpack, etc. This also helps deal with rust and prevents freezing.

If you already have the evaporater then they work excellent also. Just the old school way of doing the same thing.

Thanks for the recommendation, welldigger:

- Is there a preferred manufacturer/ model for the Air Dryer?
- and is there a preferred way to mount/ install it?

What I'm asking, please, is (never having installed the item) how does one best go about making this "happen"?

 

[welldigger]

I haven't installed one yet but it's next on the list. You have 2 main choices. The haldex pure air plus available from erik's. About $350. Or an aftermarket copy of the bendix ad-9 24v. Its about $250 from www.anythingtruck.com.

I'm going to install mine behind the air tanks like the a3's have them. I'll do a full write up as soon as I get to doing it.

 

[UPFINN]

I haven't installed one yet but it's next on the list. You have 2 main choices. The haldex pure air plus available from erik's. About $350. Or an aftermarket copy of the bendix ad-9 24v. Its about $250 from www.anythingtruck.com.

I'm going to install mine behind the air tanks like the a3's have them. I'll do a full write up as soon as I get to doing it.

I'd get the air dryer if funds allowed. Right now I can just build the evaporator out of tubes and a jar and it will work fine.

Also, it appears instead of parking the deuce over the winter it looks like I will have to use it. I have a lot of pine boards and beams I need to cut and haul to complete some furniture orders, and I found a supplier for lumber after the snow fell instead of during the warm season. Was originally going to get a beater plow truck but I figure since it would probably die soon and I need to transport so much material I might was well spend the same amount to upgrade the deuce for optimal winter use. However, until I can do the upgrades I'll just have to be very careful to avoid driving on icy roads and hose down the frame and suspension components to remove the road salt.

The funds I was saving for a smaller plow truck now look to be going towards super singles, either 11x20s or 395xls, snowmobile loading ramp, a 9 foot snowplow, anti corrosion undercoat spray, hitch adapter, lockers, new paint job, dump bed conversion, radio, 24 to 12v converter, muffler, new seats, toolbox, spin on filters, etc. I will install most of this myself. It will be the ultimate all season work truck.