Complete deuce winch mounting bolt list

[treeguy]

Yes, the black bolts will rust quickly. They have no coating on them. I usually paint that kind of stuff prior to install. Sorry you had to go through that, can you take them out and wire wheel them and then paint and re install?

The tubes I was talking about come with the winch bumper extensions. Its some of the pieces that would have come off of the donor truck you got the winch from. I'd either make my own out of 1/2" iron pipe (like LP gas pipe in your home) or try and call one of the MV vendors and see if they can point you in any direction.

I'm glad that you guys are able to make use of the list, (which ever vendor you decide to go with).

 

[m16ty]

Where did you find the 1/2" tubes on their site?

I don't see hollow tubes in the steel section: https://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerc..._/N-77dtr?cm_re=Category-_-Breadcrumb-_-Steel

Much thanks

C

I've used regular steel water pipe in the past.

 

[JCKnife]

Sorry you had to go through that

No no, I really appreciate the list and this is a great resource.

 

[frank8003]

Really nice posts in this thread

 

[Buderwuder]

I just double checked something that I wanted to add.

If you are reusing your triangle bumper supports and not the ones that come off a deuce with winch you will need to fabricate a spacer shim. The winch truck triangles have a 1/4" thick rectangle plate with two holes that match the shackle mount welded to the top two triangles. The no winch trucks shackle mount front sits on your bumper and the tail end use to sit and bolt thru the grill mount. Now, with YOUR triangles the shackle mount will still sit on your bumper but there will be a gap of 1/4" between the tail end and the frame extention. You could use 5/8" x 1/4" thick washers like at the grill mount or a plate with two holes. I set the shackle mount on the bumper and dropped in the front two bolts then slid in a piece of 1/4" plate, traced the outline and marked the two holes in the tail end. After removing the plate I cut out and drilled it then made three more (two for the top and two fro the bottom shackle mounts - optional- ).

The other thing is, if you just want to use the top two shackle mounts, two bolts on the list will be different.

Remove 2 of 85660306 - 5/8"-18x3" bolt

Add 2 more 85660157 - 5/8"-18x1-1/2" bolt for a total of 6 of these

The 11" bolts will still be necessary because 10" bolts are too short. These long bolts are not plated so I primed and painted and greased them. They will be permanently living inside tubes so will rust (Did you get to see the ones that came off the other truck? Boat trailers in salt water even when regularly hosed down will have the interior bolt shafts corrode away looking like a bowtie shape - over time of course.)

My only concern is if I will be able to slide the winch in between the side plates with all the layers of paint. This may be tight or loose depending on the play of the frame extention fit. Smokinyoda, could you let us know how this goes when you do yours?

I just happened to acquire the triangle pieces with the extensions and the supports. I was traveling back from Connecticut to Florida and made a detour to White Owl. They cut off the bumper ends, and the frame behind the extension and I got the whole framework. this is good to know, I don't know yet if they are the correct triangle pieces or not but I will soon know.

 

[Buderwuder]

With the suggestion from Smokinyoda I am posting this to help anyone looking to install the front winch frame extentions. This is a complete list of bolts needed to: mount winch frame extentions, your flipped bumper, and front shackles mounted top and on the bottom of your bumper to give you a total of four in the front which fits 7/8" standard shackles. This looks mean, but I needed it for 2" receiver mounting points. If you only want the top two you could trim the exposed threads. These nuts, bolts, lock washers are from MSC (industrial supply) 1-800-645-7270. They are a national supplier for the machinist industry. If you ask them to send you their Blue Book you will find supplies for any deuce project. The prices shown are from last year and may have even gone up since I ordered mine, but notice that the quality and price will definitly beat any local store. Some of the items are sold in packs or min. quantities but are still cheaper than your home center store. You'll figure out where they all go on your truck, don't worry.

These will be part numbers quoted for all grade 8 hardware:
86501970 1/2-20x11" bolt quantity: 4 $9.35 ea.,
86502564 5/8-18x11" bolt quantity: 2 $10.99 ea.,
74455031 1/2-20x1-1/2" bolts 50 pack min. $49.83/pack (you will use 32 of these),
85660157 5/8-18x1-1/2" bolts quantity: 4 $1.23 ea.,
85660207 5/8-18x2" bolts quantity: 4 $1.38 ea.,
85660306 5/8-18x3" bolts quantity: 4 $2.00 ea.,
05724844 1/2" gr. 8 lock washer 100 pack min. $9.27/pack,
05724869 5/8" gr. 8 lock washer 100 pack min. $15.61/pack,
67472282 1/2" gr. 8 nuts 100 pack min. $21.11/pack,
67472365 5/8" gr. 8 nuts 50 pack min. $0.39/ea. = $19.50/pack.

This will get it all together, if you look thru the cataloge, they have higher grades like Lake Erie Grade 8, Armor Coat, and T9, but the prices get higher. Like I said I paid just about $200 with shiping and got them the next day because they have a branch in my state. I prefer lock washers than the lock nuts that the military use, you can't thread them by hand.

When you got the frame extentions, did you also get the three 1/2"diameter tubes and the two 5/8" washers that are 1/4" thick that go under the grill mount brackets to take up the empty space? I thoroughly appologize for telling you anything that you already know, I just want to help so you don't miss anything. It took me a long time to figure the measurements when I did mine, so I know what its like.
TIP FOR ASSEMBLY: I always coat bolts with marine grease as well as mating surfaces. This repells water (ie. corrosion) at joints and keeps threads strong by prohibiting corrosion. (Boat mechanic tip) Next assemble everything together FINGER tight first!!!!! Due to any minor misalignments, if you bolt the whole rig together as you go, things may not line up and you'll have to go back and loosen things up. This will cause a giant headache. If all the bolts are left loose you can tweek where you need to.

Once its all together then tighten the he!! out of the nuts, but be a little easy on the 1/2"er's they could strip out. If you go too tight you will deform the lock washers (done it). I'm not sure of the exact torque for 1/2" fine and 5/8" fine hardware but I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar by hand to finish mine off tight. Some of the nuts are accessable with an air gun but the others you need to wrench by hand will definitly have a lesser torque so I opted to tighten it all by hand so they are all uniform.

Then go back and check them all again. There are 50 bolts so you may miss one or two, look for them they are there. I hope this can help anyone converting to a truck w/w. Good luck!

I really appreciate the repost, I am a late comer adding a winch to a non-winch truck.