complete engine overhaul including head gaskets

[eagle4g63]

I would still take the head to a good shop and have it checked for cracks and to see if it is warped......well worth the $$, especially since you won't have to do the work of tearing it back down if it isn't good. At least by you cleaning it that will save you that money.

 

[zout]

I have cut thousands of oil filter canisters open - those that work on engines know why.
For over 50 years some manufactures of oil filters absolutely use TP in their canisters as the media - I have seen it.
Baldwin - uses rice hulls plus other media - start cutting the threaded end off them filters and pull the media out and look at them.

I do believe the OP wanted to use just the TP thrown into the canister which by all means absolutely DO NOT do this please. Get the correct bonded filter for it - filters are far less expensive than engines as well as good quality oil no matter how much or many you use.

Thought I would toss this into the arena:

So, why is any of this important? Because extensive oil filter tests testing dating back to the mid-60’s has shown that particles in the oil as small as 5 microns, or .0002 inch, are responsible for a great deal of engine wear. Most full flow filters are not very efficient at capturing dirt smaller than 30 microns, and are almost incapable of capturing particles smaller than 10 microns. Enter the “toilet paper” oil filter. Whether you call them bypass filters, secondary filters, or toilet paper filters, the fact is most such units are capable of removing oil-borne particles in the range of 1 – 5 microns. This is possible because they have large media area and are not required to pass all of the oil flow at once.

An additional benefit to the toilet paper oil filter is the ability to hold not only particulate contaminants, but to remove water and fuel contamination from the oil. Due to the size and absorptive capability of the filter element, bypass filters have much greater ability to retain liquid contaminants. This is important, as the presence of water in motor oil is a major contributor to the development of sludge and acid, both of which are major causes of engine deterioration

 

[Diecorpse]

The only reason why I mentioned the tp for oil filter because I heard from multiple mechanics who work on farm eqipment, said the old school farmers do this. I don't know what or how exactly but I guess it's wise no to test on my truck. I'm spending a lot of time and money to get that old girl going again, don't need to blow her up! I usually used the Rotella 15w 40 oil with lucas oil additive. I noticed after my truck overheated, no oil burned or anything, not like I have experienced before. I think that was a good combo. I will stick with the stock filters though, no home made tp ones!!

 

[WillWagner]

I'll just toss in my here. Don't re use the head that had the melted piston. The aluminum that melted and coated the cylinder head face is inside the exhaust port on the head and all over the valve seat and valve.

The reason the two push rods were bent is because the material that left the piston stuck to the valves, seats, head surface and didn't allow the valves to close. When the piston comes to TDC, the valves need to be closed, there is no room in the cylinder to have the head of the valve protrude below the head casting. Nothing is wrong with the timing. This also puts stress on the rod in a bad way, it should be replaced too.

Take a look at the crowns of all the other pistons. If there are any marks on them from something being in the cylinder, you have lots more work ahead of you. If there has been debris from the melted piston into the other cylinders, you'll need to replace the intake manifold. The reason for this is that the intake is a water jacketed type of manifold, there are little castings inside it that secure the two parts of the manifold together. If a piece of that melted piston is stuck inside the manifold in a coating of oil or wedged in one of the little nooks or crannies, it WILL dislodge after you put the engine back in service and you'll be doing the same repair again, or worse.

You'll also need to put another turbo and exhaust manifold on it. All that melted metal has coated the manifold, turbine housing and the chunks from the piston have ruined the turbine wheel. if the engine is put back into service with the failed turbo, worst case here, the engine will fail catastrophicaly. Keep in mind, the turbo spins around 60k RPM, maybe a bit more or less. The turbine wheel already has damage to it. The damage will continue to get worse by removing more blades from the wheel. This makes the shaft/wheel imbalanced, it starts to "wobble" if you will, You are just putting it around at a low RPM, say 1500 RPM, that turbo is still going real fast. The shaft finally breaks, it sends pressurized oil out the back AND into the intake. The engine now has an uncontrolled fuel source. It will run as fast as it wants to for as long as it has the fuel source, usually around 4-5 mins, seen it happen multiple times, I do this for a living.

Don't mean to pee on your parade, doing a 1 or 2 hole repair is fine and a normal procedure, but you have a bad failure. Minimum you will need to do is have the heads sent out and disassembled to check them out, but that is more $. I don't know where Grand Island is, Your best bet is to find another running engine at least for parts, but if it were me, i'd swing the engine or go through it completely, there is too much debris throuought the engine to just fix as failed.

At a minimun, the parts you'll be needing are as follows;
2 cylinder kits, 1 rod, 2 push rods, 1 head, turbo, exh. manifold, 1 injector, intake manifold, upper gasket kit, plus the oil and filters and coolant.

I don't mean to come off sounding like a prick, but IMHO, you'll spend your hard earned cash on the fix, and it will happen again a day or two after you make it run from this failure.


Will

 

[Diecorpse]

Thanks for the info. I don't think you sound like a prick. I appreciate your input. A buddy of mine is a mechanic and has experience with these motors. He told me almost the same thing. The problem is he is in Michigan where I came from. I try to talk to him as much as possible, but with both us working a lot, it has been a challenge. I plan on disassembling the head, I just have to get the right tools. Yes I also believe that is why my rods bent, at least the second one for sure. I plan on checking my bearings and such on my next day off. I know the bearing from the and rod I took out look good and so does the crank. Very little signs of wear. I noticed that the melted metal made its way to the exhaust manifold but I realize its possible it may have damaged the turbo. I know I have a lot of work ahead of me, but I do believe I will be lucky and have a successful engine overhaul. I am taking my time and going through each part of the motor. One of my favorite quotes which has served me well - "What the mind of man can conceive, and bring itself to believe, it can achieve." Napoleon Hill.

 

[ducer]

If I were a betting man I would bet on that head needing 2 valve seats and 2 valve guides and both valves for that cylinder for a start. Hot tanking over night will remove the molten aluminum from the ports and manifolds. That head will need some machine work and the injector replaced! Don't halfass it, your doing a lot of work please don't step over dollars to pick uo dimes. Send all that stuff out to be checked it will save you money in the long run. That engine has had what is known as a catastrophic failure and care also must be taken also to find out why. The farmers around me are not known for taking the best care of their equiptment, they need stuff fixed cheap and fast. If it blows up again after the crops are in or out of the fields then they will fix it right, (their words not mine). A little time can be a lot of money to them, your truck aint pulling a plow fix it right.

Denny

 

[Diecorpse]

Oh definetly I agree with you 100%. I'm trying to prep the head the best I can. I just have to find a machine shop around here first. I know why exactly how it happend. I guess I should of explained it a long time ago. When I was driving my truck down the highway going 55 with 6 wheel drive engaged during a winter storm, the bolt that holds the alt arm bracket (also to adjust belt tension) snapped off in the block. My temp gauge didn't work at the time, but I still had full charge from the alt (I know the difference betwwen the batts and the alt on the volt gauge) so I didn't know anything was wrong until "BOOM" and then she ran like poo with lots of white and stinky smoke. I let her coast with the engine off on the shoulder. After I waited for hour and a half, she started up but still sounded like poo, and managed to almost getting her home five hours later. I noticed the belts were loose and I think the waterpump wasn't being turned fast enough for the engine, One resulting in my dreaded endeavour. After I replaced the bent rod, she started fine, sounded good, until I drove it down the street and then the head gasket went out completely, when that happend, I had fixed my temp gauge, she didn't show any spike in temp leading to hg failure. When the head went out, I pulled over and it stalled out, locked up and was done. It was towed to the tow owners shop where it sits today. After two days when it locked up, I tried to see if it would even turn over, she did and turned over well, it didn't have that drag from swelled up pistons like you get when you overheated your car. So I figured she was fixable. Was told to do things from both sides of the spectrum, sell it, junk it, replace the motor, fix it, do nothing, and just forget about it. So here I am fixing my truck. The block is good, the major componets are good (well, most of them). The body and frame are in mint condition, hardly any rust, transmission and clutch are nearly perfect. So I figure, keep a positive attitude, take my time, have fun, and learn. I don't think anybody's reply is foolish, I take them all seriously and I appreciate all those who help in anyway. Thank you. I will keep updating my progress as I go. I do plan having my head looked at by a pro and see what needs to be done, I just want to prep everything first.

 

[Diecorpse]

Who knows, maybe I will just win the lotto jackpot, have millions, pay someone to fully restore my truck, host a rally somewhere, pay for everyone's fuel, and have fun!! Sounds good to me. Someday. . .

 

[WillWagner]

NO....you aren't gonna win the lotto, I am

 

[Diecorpse]

Well I received my gaskets today from Tnj Murray's. $55 for head gasket, with the integrated fire rings. Now I just have to get the rest of my parts and have my heads checked, then I can slow start putting the motor back together. I like using my android for this since it's quick and easy to get the tm's. I found out from a guy I work with that his dad owns and runs a truck shop. He told me he will find out from his old man if he can check my heads and other parts for me. I guess I will find out otherwise it back to looking for machine shops. Once I get paid saturday, I can pay for some things I need and hopefully soon I will be good to go!!

 

[hilber]

Here's wishing you much success!!!!

 

[Diecorpse]

I didn't hear anything from my co worker, but I was told by a friend about a shop here in town. Going to call them and find out about my heads, otherwise I found two places by my work, they have engines for sale, so maybe they can help. Hope all I hear is good news!!

 

[Diecorpse]

Well, I started my reassembly today. I got two sleeves swapped out, and two pistons installed. I baught a ring compressor from Advanced Auto Parts and it was actually big enough to do the job. I used Ultra slick on my bearings and pistons for easy installation. I put my heads back on and torqued the bolts down. I was surprised by how much easier it was to reassemble than tearing down. I started on my intake and exhaust but I will have to wait till this Friday to finish it. I was getting tired and hungry after six hours. Plus it was 94 F today. I felt like I showered in my clothes for how much I was sweating. On Friday I will pull my batteries and charge them while I complete my reassembly so I know they can handle some cranking for a bit. So all I have left is my intake/exhaust manifolds, the rockers and push rods, oil cooler cover, fuel lines, radiator hoses and radiator, and my grill. I am so excited to have the beast running again!! I do want to thank Gimpy for his help and Shawn. They both have made this experience more enjoyable, and I made a new friend out the deal. Thank you all for tips and support!! Looking foward to my first rally soon!!

 

[Diecorpse]

I have great news!! My beast is running again!!. I spent a lot of time over the past two days working on it. I did manage to get it started without bleeding the lines. I did have a scare though. When Shawn was helping me, we turned it over and the batteries were weak, we sprayed a little either in the intake and tried again. We heard this loud clunk and I thought something didn't get put together right or something broke. I called Gimpyrobb and talked to him. He told me what to do. I did that and after we jumped my truck with Shawn's Deuce, we cranked it and it tried to run. After a few more cranks it ran and sounded good. I have to go back and tighten some bolts that I noticed were the gaskets leaked a little. I think my exhaust manifold might be warped because with new gaskets, and all the bolts were really tight, I have some exhaust coming out somewhere around the manifold. Also when I drove it, it acted like it no power after third gear. I couldn't get faster than 43 mph. It also had a few knocks and pings. I wonder if there isn't water in my primary filter or it's because my fuel in the tank is eight months old. Today I want to go and do some tweekin and hopefully all will be good. I might see about getting some diesel fuel additive to help with the few pings and knocks. I would just add diesel but I have a full tank or really close to being full. Either way I am happy after almost eight months, my truck is running!! I do want to think everyone for their advise and support!! Thank you!!

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

It was fun being there when the old deuce roared back to life.

 

[Diecorpse]

I think you were just as excited to get it running as I was!! I do want to add some things about my truck as I drove it yesterday. I notice it lacks power in all gears, temp stays around 160 - 170 even with the pedal to the floor going up hill, It sounds like there is a mis or a dead cylinder some what like there is a bent push rod but not as bad, top speed is about 40 mph in fourth. At one point, it sounded normal and it had power, but it was short lived. With all of these symptoms I think it could also be a bad fuel injector. I am going to check and change my filters, then if the issue persists, I am going to make sure all the injectors are getting fuel, then I might pull one injector at a time and start the motor to see if they are working right. I'm hoping it's just bad fuel or water in the primary.

 

[poppop]

You should not have to pull the injector, just crack the lines one at a time. that how we check farm tractors.

 

[Bowtie70SS]

If you think it is a bad push rod or rocker then pop the valve covers off and have someone bump the starter and check the rockers for slack. Could one have backed off?

 

[Diecorpse]

It may be possible one of the valves could be off, especially if a nut came loose. I know the injectors are getting fuel because all the lines have fuel shootin out when I loosened them, so I am wondering if the injector is not popping like it should or its sticking. When the rain stops I plan on doin some investigating.

 

[Bowtie70SS]

Did u keep the injectors numbered? Maybe on the cylinder that was bad the injector is bad. I would check that one first. I can't remember, you replaced the head right? That would rule out a bent valve.