Connected my MEP-803A the proper way as my home standby generator... Install pics...

[Hard Head]

Starting a new thread on the generator modification to the air input and exhaust. Got the exhaust hood built today and will put up a few pictures.

 

[Another Ahab]

Starting a new thread on the generator modification to the air input and exhaust. Got the exhaust hood built today and will put up a few pictures.

Can you maybe post a link here?

 

[tbearatkin]

Here is his link.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?150135-Tactical-generator-environmental-modifications

 

[AOR]

Can you please go into more detail about the internal jumper that needs to be removed? Where exactly is it located?
Since my setup will remain portable on the trailer do I need to disconnect the ground wire from the output board to the trailer? I would like to easily convert this to work both with my house and as a stand alone unit.
i am using 4/4 soow cable

thanks

 

[csmitty]

Well, finally got through all 23 pages. Looks like a great install. Looks like you have yours wired in before it hits the main panel. Any issues with the generator not being rated to supply the entire load of the panel? I'm probably going to hard wire my 802 into an ATS before the panel so as not to have to move circuits to a separate sub panel and use then use some load shed relays to make sure the high wattage devices don't come on together.

For your 90 degree conduit into the generator, did you put a short stub piece or just have the 802s covering sitting on the box connector?

Any issues with it out in the elements? I was thinking about putting it in a shed to keep all the environment intrusions to a minimum.

I will probably wire with an 803 in mind as I'd like to upgrade eventually for whole house capability, but for how cheap I got the 802 it was a no brainier and will def. keep the necessities powered.

 

[DieselAddict]

Well, finally got through all 23 pages. Looks like a great install. Looks like you have yours wired in before it hits the main panel. Any issues with the generator not being rated to supply the entire load of the panel? I'm probably going to hard wire my 802 into an ATS before the panel so as not to have to move circuits to a separate sub panel and use then use some load shed relays to make sure the high wattage devices don't come on together.

Be sure to read up on the code for generators in your area. If you are using an ATS the rules are different concerning connected load. You aren't allowed to automatically attach more connected load than your generator can handle. If you have a 5kw genset then you can't put more than 5kw of connected load to your generator subpanel/ATS setup.

 

[csmitty]

Be sure to read up on the code for generators in your area. If you are using an ATS the rules are different concerning connected load. You aren't allowed to automatically attach more connected load than your generator can handle. If you have a 5kw genset then you can't put more than 5kw of connected load to your generator subpanel/ATS setup.

I saw a note in the product literature for the ATS I'm looking to use stating that, but wasn't sure if it was more of a guide line. I can see where the issues come into play obviously but it seems if you do it right it can be managed.

I mean, if a manual setup doing the same setup are you expected to go and turn off everything that was running (AC, WH, etc) before you go throw the manual switch? I would trust some load shed relays before a human to handle the proper procedures.

I'll read up on the local codes though. Haven't looked into the NEC sections for that yet. Either way the basic questions above would apply to either setup. Don't want to derail to much.

 

[rhurey]

Be sure to read up on the code for generators in your area. If you are using an ATS the rules are different concerning connected load. You aren't allowed to automatically attach more connected load than your generator can handle. If you have a 5kw genset then you can't put more than 5kw of connected load to your generator subpanel/ATS setup.

Unless your ATS has load shedding. APC's transfer switches did this. Only consumer one I saw that did. Think they got discontinued.

 

[DieselAddict]

Not overloading a generator with an ATS is not a guideline. If you use an ATS you MUST have AUTOMATIC load shedding as to not create an overload on the generator. If you do and its a permitted job its a guaranteed fail from the inspector.

If you have a MTS then it is assumed that the load management is also manual. If it is AUTO then its assumed that the load management is AUTOMATIC.

With an 802, you can only put 5kw of connected load on it with an ATS or it will be a guaranteed fail from the inspector.

 

[Glockfan]

I have an 803a, that's what is pictured in my install. I rarely have to manually manage loads. I just know that I can't run the strip heat on the heat pump, water heater, and other high resistive loads at once. I have ran my oven, clothes dryer, and central A/C as well as other normal incidental loads such as various lights, tv's, computers, etc. at once. I have ran my unit at 130% load. I have tested it to produce 14kw for nearly 20 minutes before tripping an overload switch.

These are good units. Anyone who tells you differently doesn't know them. I have seen units with 7000 hours on them and my buddy worked on one with nearly 10,000 hours on it over in the desert. These things are built for the harshest environments. A little GA sun is no comparison to the deserts in Iraq and Kuwait.

I ran a short stub of conduit into the generator from the "L" connector. I also drilled two holes and screwed the high voltage door shut. I have a 7 year old boy and wanted to make sure his curiosity didn't get the best of him. Also for those not familiar with these sets, it is for their safety as well.

I have debated on stepping up to a 15kw unit but can't justify it because my 10kw unit does everything I need it to do.

 

[Daybreak]

I have debated on stepping up to a 15kw unit but can't justify it because my 10kw unit does everything I need it to do.

Howdy,
It is also surprising of what exactly a true 10kw generator such as this can handle. It really does take a lot to get up to the 133% load line. But easily handle 10kw all day long without issue.

 

[Sodamo]

Very informative thread, I learned a lot, THANK YOU ALL

i picked up my 803 today and will be wiring it in permanently.A different set up in that I'm off grid totally and this will be a backup for my primary generator and will be tasked to charge my battery bank. House loads would be reduced turn off the hot tub) if I find it won't handle everything. I will start a thread on that install so I can tap into the expertise.

 

[csmitty]

Not overloading a generator with an ATS is not a guideline. If you use an ATS you MUST have AUTOMATIC load shedding as to not create an overload on the generator. If you do and its a permitted job its a guaranteed fail from the inspector.

If you have a MTS then it is assumed that the load management is also manual. If it is AUTO then its assumed that the load management is AUTOMATIC.

With an 802, you can only put 5kw of connected load on it with an ATS or it will be a guaranteed fail from the inspector.

Not trying to argue the logic of the ATS code but more so the manual as well. Sure its assumed you manual manage the load, but how do you know that the HW isn't running, or your aux heat isn't running when you flip the switch? Not saying you in particular, just in general. Unless there's a checklist sheet next to the switch whats to stop someone not trained on the system (father in law watching the house for example) from throwing the switch and connecting more than than the gen can handle.

For the 802 regardless if its a MTS or ATS I will have load shedding contactors for my HW heater, clothes dryer, AC, and maybe range ( I suppose something could be in the oven and we leave the house for a bit if using an ATS) Just so I don't have to manage it manually. I found some decently priced stand alone options and with that incorporated into an ATS switch should satisfy 702.4

I have an 803a, that's what is pictured in my install. I rarely have to manually manage loads. I just know that I can't run the strip heat on the heat pump, water heater, and other high resistive loads at once. I have ran my oven, clothes dryer, and central A/C as well as other normal incidental loads such as various lights, tv's, computers, etc. at once. I have ran my unit at 130% load. I have tested it to produce 14kw for nearly 20 minutes before tripping an overload switch.

These are good units. Anyone who tells you differently doesn't know them. I have seen units with 7000 hours on them and my buddy worked on one with nearly 10,000 hours on it over in the desert. These things are built for the harshest environments. A little GA sun is no comparison to the deserts in Iraq and Kuwait.

I ran a short stub of conduit into the generator from the "L" connector. I also drilled two holes and screwed the high voltage door shut. I have a 7 year old boy and wanted to make sure his curiosity didn't get the best of him. Also for those not familiar with these sets, it is for their safety as well.

.

Thanks. I figured thats what you did put couldn't quite tell.

I have no doubt they'd hold up to the elements outside but just wonder about debris like, pinestraw, seedlings, etc making its way into the radiator exhaust and maybe even the fins or the radiator to much something up. Pollen getting all throughout it (also in GA) Was thinking about a raised platform like yours but having removable roof and sides for maintenance tasks.

 

[Glockfan]

Probably the smartest single upgrade I did to my set was the exhaust "stack". Not sure if I have this pictured in earlier posts in this thread. Additionally, the aux fuel tank is great. If you mount yours static, do these things. The 90 gallon diesel tank is great. With the onboard tank I have a total of 99 gallons of fuel on hand and will never have to fuss with filling it up with diesel during an outage. The exhaust stack is in my opinion what should have came on it in the first place. I used a piece an 1 1/4" pipe, a rigid conduit coupler, and a conduit lock ring in the same size to make the stack. I topped it off with a flapper that fits the pipe from Tractor Supply. My only gripe is that it rattles when running. I have a spring clip to settle down the rattle when I let it run for extended periods of time.


If I had it to do over again, I would have built the raised platform slightly higher to facilitate easier maintenance. I would have also not monkeyed with the solargizer charger and would have just installed the pulsetech 24V battery maintainer in the first place.


I plan to one day finish my fence to conceal the whole works. One day... Also, if I could get around to installing a "Power Back" type of indicator on the inside of the house, it may keep me from burning unnecessary diesel when the utility power comes back on.


Having done all this, I have been without power for about 8 hours in two years! Go figure...

 

[Another Ahab]

Having done all this, I have been without power for about 8 hours in two years! Go figure...

It's like umbrellas, Glockfan. I don't know if there is any science to it or anything, but:

- The best way to avoid rain is to carry one.

 

[Sodamo]

My immediate concern is to get it placed and wired in temp. My first planned mod is to extend the exhaust, about 9 ft straight up then a 90° to outside. Makes me wish I hadn't let my previous extension go with the old generator I sold a few years ago, but it may have been too short.

The aux fuel hook up is on the list as well. My 125gal tank I get deliveries in is just outside the door. I have an electric pump hooked in to refuel my primary generator and tractors. I suspect I can tee in after the filter, but haven't looked yet. Main concern is the routing of the line itself over the concrete floor.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Not trying to argue the logic of the ATS code but more so the manual as well. Sure its assumed you manual manage the load, but how do you know that the HW isn't running, or your aux heat isn't running when you flip the switch? Not saying you in particular, just in general. Unless there's a checklist sheet next to the switch whats to stop someone not trained on the system (father in law watching the house for example) from throwing the switch and connecting more than than the gen can handle. .

My solution for my "manual interlock" is to pin a verified checklist written in an EASY to understand procedure next to the breaker box and on the generator itself (in gallon size Ziplocs). In addition, I have a green dot (used green sharpie pen) next to every breaker that needs to get thrown to on position (one at a time) so life is pretty much normal during an outage. This way all the wife, or trained house sitter, has to do is follow the procedure as written. It even helps me to not have to think about which breakers need to be thrown when a power event occurs. If its storming and dark, looking for a green dot with flashlight in hand is easier than trying to read breaker labels in dim light ( o well pump, etc...) vs not thrown (hot-tub...) You could even use some color coded vinyl dots with legend: green = always on, yellow = only when necessary, red = always off except when on utility pwr.

 

[tim292stro]

My solution for my "manual interlock" is to pin a verified checklist written in an EASY to understand procedure next to the breaker box and on the generator itself (in gallon size Ziplocs)...

I just want to take a moment to point out how awesome you are for going through this effort

It's easy to think about how you want to use a system or maybe to make it easy for an inspector to sign off on it - people often forget though that power company people need to be able to understand your system too, and you may not be around to tell them how it works, and it may be dark and raining...

A solid procedure that is hard documented, and equipment that is well labelled goes a long way for this.

Well done sir!

 

[Blackbear]

Are you connecting an MEP or a commercial genset to your house? If you are going to use an MEP, the connection should be made at the terminal lugs on the generator.

View attachment 538776

You should leave your ground bonded to neutral via the copper bar while your MEP is "portable". You will notice that my bar has been removed since I'm perm connected.

Just note that that this pick and the bonding note helped me out today, leaving it portable I'm leaving the bar in place.
thanks!

 

[Glockfan]

Just note that that this pick and the bonding note helped me out today, leaving it portable I'm leaving the bar in place.
thanks!

Glad to help!