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Converting M1009 front differential to Pos--trac style

Blood_of_Tyrants

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You wont be able to do the job with the carrier in the housing, or at least reasonably. Honestly its not that hard to jam a lunchbox locker if your using the same carrier, you dont need any special tools despite what proper methods say. Removing the carrier goes like - remove wheels, rotor, spindle, axle shafts, cover, main bearing bolts (4), make sure you put a nice soft mat for the carrier to land on and chain up the carrier and yank it out with the chain tied to your vehicle of choice. Easy as cake right? (not)

To ram the carrier back in, if your reusing the carrier and spacers, tap on the carrier using your favorite mallet, until you can thread the bearing caps and use those to cram the carrier back into the case and reverse steps to reassemble. No axle spreader needed!

Can I use a Come-along to pull it out? Seems like it will be a lot gentler.
 

AJMBLAZER

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In the front it is an open diff so only one tire will spin if you are really stuck. That's normal. It'd the tire with no traction.

In the rear if the Grenade Lock is working properly what should happen is one tire spins for a little bit and then at a certain (hopefully low) speed the "locker" engages and turns the other tire and viola, you have both tires turning the same speed. However Grenade Locks are a finicky beast and with age can do funny things. Not work, lock up solid, shudder/bang/clatter, blow up, etc.

Nope, I'm not a fan of them. Like true lockers myself.
 

4bogginchevys

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Can I use a Come-along to pull it out? Seems like it will be a lot gentler.
In all seriousness, the best way i've found is to use a block of fake wood (trex) and use it for a pad on the pinion snout. I'ts a nice even push on the carrier. I generally use a couple strategically placd blocks of wood with a pillow to catch the falling carrier if a buddy is not available. Good luck
 

scrambled

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I use a prybar on the ring gear bolts and lever them against the housing. you can control how fast it comes out. I have use a come along on an F350 that had grenaded inside the axle.

To replace the diff, try a brass hammer to tap the carrier and shims back in. If you use the bearing cap bolts to pull the carrier back in, it can strip them out. I have had to helicoil a dana 44 once for a friend. Expensive fix!
 

bronconut

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ok just reread the install directions for the ezlocker i installed in my 85 chev half ton with the same axles. you should not need to remove the carrier with 308 gears, it also says you can leave the ring gear side axle in place but i did not because i replaced the u-joints while i had it torn apart.
 

4bogginchevys

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lockers have terrible road manners, hope your planning on mostly off road use of the vehicle. A good limited slip is still the best choice in my opinion..something with a high bias ratio of 3.0 or more (max is 3.5). You can get better results from a posi too by using the brakes a little when one tire is in the air. But, if your wheelin' with a tire in the air....rather than put a lunch box locker in a half ton truck, you oughta spend that dough on a drivetrain worthy of that operation. Lastly, dont drive in the snow with the locker engaged or you'll have to do a 4 point turn at any intersection. good luck2cents
 

four_by_ken

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lockers have terrible road manners,
Depends on what you use your truck for. For a lot of people... locking it in on the street doesn't happen much. Like me... I would say that 95% of the time I lock it in... I am not on the road. So, I will gladly give up a little road manners for a huge improvement in off road ability, and I mean HUGE.
 

AJMBLAZER

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Never found them terrible on the road. Had them in two trucks now over several Northern Michigan winters and I had no issues. Drive sane and it's alright.

Never liked the compromises a limited slip made you take. Not to mention a limited slip will send you spinning in truly slick stuff just like a locker will.

Now, I never had any lockers in the front axles, I must admit that. I know from friends that requires a bit more "hardcore" work for driving around in the winter in 4x4.
 

Blood_of_Tyrants

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lockers have terrible road manners, hope your planning on mostly off road use of the vehicle. A good limited slip is still the best choice in my opinion..something with a high bias ratio of 3.0 or more (max is 3.5). You can get better results from a posi too by using the brakes a little when one tire is in the air. But, if your wheelin' with a tire in the air....rather than put a lunch box locker in a half ton truck, you oughta spend that dough on a drivetrain worthy of that operation. Lastly, dont drive in the snow with the locker engaged or you'll have to do a 4 point turn at any intersection. good luck2cents
Thanks for the advice, but on the road, the truck will probably be int 2wd and the hub locks turned to free-wheel. But thanks for the advice about the snow.
 

Sgt Hulka

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Well, I thought I'd throw in a different perspective... I have visited and revisited this issue. And though I haven't done it yet, I'm seriously considering going with the infamous gov loc in front. They're cheap, relatively easy to install. They only engage at low speeds (where you need it and thus minimizing the squirrlyness) and are plenty stout enough if the truck is in a stock configuration. I'm very impressed thus far with the performance of my gov loc in nearly every type of terrain. Having said that, my truck is stock and I drive conservatively... Be sure and let us know what route you decide!
 

AJMBLAZER

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I think you mean spool but yes, a limited slip will act just like a locked locker or spool on slick surfaces. They only have better manners on dry(ish) surfaces and frankly, lockers aren't all that bad (in the rear). For a DD I wouldn't do anything to the front if you were planning on regularly driving in on surface streets in slippery conditions.
 

4bogginchevys

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One good reason that some get rid of an open diff is to eliminate the weak center pin design. That was my motivation atleast, and others around here. When I changed gears last time I checked the tolerances on the spider gears and it was a loose at best....after consideration I decided to re-shim the spiders, this helps reduce the leverage on the center pin and ultimately results in more traction aswell, not much, it takes a little more to make the diff "open up". If you plan on driving on the road alot....offroad a little, then you could just re-shim the spiders for a few dollars and see how you like it. You could shim it a little tighter than a factory spec for more improved traction, without ANY ill effects on road. The tighter the shim preload the less stress on the center pin aswell. (within reason). Atleast this way you have the option of 4wd on the road.2cents
 

abarkus

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i am more confuse now that at the start of the thread. I would like to install a system on the front of my m1009 and drive on the road most of the time.
 
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