Coolant temp light now no crank

[Light in the Dark]

Usually won't seize the motor, you'll blow the head gasket first. The sensor that controls the high coolant temperature fault is located on the water pump and has 2 wires hooked to it. When it overheats it completes the circuit, so you can take one wire off and see if it makes the fault go away. I started a thread a few months back and I posted the website of the sensor so people could buy them. The company makes them to order so it will take about 3 weeks to receive.

I will see if I can hunt that thread out. I do have an 802 here for parts (but as this part has voltage going to it... its viability is in question). I will disconnect a single lead though and see if the fault condition changes. Thanks

 

[Light in the Dark]

Picked up from jamawieb's earlier referenced post (for future searching density):

Index Sensors and Control Inc
Phone number is 1-800-726-1737
Part number is 8037122
Cost is $53.30 plus shipping.

 

[Guyfang]

Did you test the switch?

 

[Light in the Dark]

I took one of the leads off when I got home, and sure enough she fires (and the light goes out). It appears there was a coolant leak just above this (whether it was because the set got too hot, or there is just a small leak... I don't know). I will pick up the switch off my parts machine, and see if she takes.

Thanks again to all.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Do I need to use any sort of thread dope for the replacement sensor install?

 

[DieselAddict]

I would.

 

[Guyfang]

Thread dope or Teflon tape. Always.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Didn't know if there was a preference, but I'll probably go with teflon tape for ease.

 

[Guyfang]

For me, tape was easy. Kept 2-3 rolls in my tools. The dope leaked twice on me and made such a mess in my tool box that I only kept it in the shop, and haven't used any in years.

 

[robson1015]

Use both, tape with dope over the tape...

 

[Light in the Dark]

So in doing the swap over, I noticed the upper radiator hose was absolutely trashed, and was obviously spilling out drops at a time since the Tier 2 reset on it. Was able to just finish tearing it right off the machine... nice! The bulge was obviously a detonation waiting to happen.

New sensor swapped in from my donor, as well as new upper radiator hose, and we are in business. Ran it for 3 hour or so at 110%, and the set was just over 180*. Temp gauge sender cable wasn't even properly secured on the sensor above the high temp switch (as I watched the gauge flutter after the sensor swap).

Good times had by all! Already found a new home for this puppy though. Onward and upward.

 

[doghead]

What year was your reset done?

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Something i have found checking rad hoses is..if you pinch it hard and you feel/hear the cords inside breaking at all. Its time to change it. It can be a bit difficult with the metal spiral in these hoses.

 

[Light in the Dark]

This particular set was reset 1/10

 

[robson1015]

Glad it wasn't as bad as you thought initially....

 

[Light in the Dark]

Me too. A mistake I won't make again.

 

[Guyfang]

Refer back to message #11.