Cracked my intake manifold today

[goldneagle]

Here are the current pictures of the same manifold:

 

[eagle4g63]

If you want to jb weld it...........give it a try..........my heater kit had a shut off valve that fit the lower hole anyway......I never used the top one, you might want to give that one a try first........but in the long haul I would change it out anyway.

 

[goldneagle]

If you want to jb weld it...........give it a try..........my heater kit had a shut off valve that fit the lower hole anyway......I never used the top one, you might want to give that one a try first........but in the long haul I would change it out anyway.View attachment 402821

I already loosened the 1/2" plug on the replacement manifold for him if he want to use it.

 

[Artisan]

Kroil I am sure is OK stuff but.........

PB Blaster, Penetrating Catalyst now, available at Home Depot, is some really incredible ship.
It only takes a few drops, applied every day, maybe twice a day
for as long as you can wait. If it looks tough and if it is mission critical I would
apply it for 7 days ! It really penetrates DEEP. I am a HUGE fan of the stuff...

8 Point sockets for those plugs are a real plus as well...


I would RUN to the web or your local HD and buy some and
start soaking all those manifold bolts and every last thing you
plan on removing, every last nut and bolt, apply it NOW,
before you attempt to unscrew, IMHO.


I know it is no help now but in the future if you drill out the offending
plug then very carefully w/ a pie saw blade or maybe a 9V Makita
Reciprcating blade, you cut out a little piece of material like a piece
of pie W/O going into the female manifold threads, or just barely touching them,
and then tink tink w/ an awl / sharp cheisel that pop that little pice out,
then tink tink bend in the rest and remove and
your good to go. All the while not letting ANYTHING fall inside, VERY HARD TASK IT IS.


Tedious it is, and I know all is not simple and your working on
an engine...now pretend your me doing it under a house...

Those pics are PAINFULL to view, I hope the manifold change out goes better...

 

[Smokinyoda]

Thanks to goldneagle a replacement intake is soon to be on its way.

I plan on reusing the turbo to intake gasket but what about the intake to head gasket, can it also be reused with some rtv or does it need to be replaced?

 

[jw4x4]

As far as penetrating oil goes, if Kroil didn't work, PB Blaster won't phase it. Kroil is better than PB. There is something better than Kroil- the home made mix of 50% acetone- 50% auto trans fluid mix. This stuff works wonders.

 

[hndrsonj]

JW, I forget who did the test; but you are right. The mix is best followed by Kroil.

 

[DieselBob]

Thanks to goldneagle a replacement intake is soon to be on its way.

I plan on reusing the turbo to intake gasket but what about the intake to head gasket, can it also be reused with some rtv or does it need to be replaced?

If I remember the intake/exhaust manifold gasket are one piece which means that you would have to remove the exhaust manifold to replace the gasket. There in lies another can of worms removing the exhaust manifold nuts from studs on the heads. Also the exhaust manifold is a multipiece assembly with sealing rings at the joints that could start to leak if you disassemble it. I usually don't like to use RTV in place of the correct gasket and ideally I would say replace it with a new gasket but in this case I would probably go with the ultra black hi temp RTV to seal the manifold. These engines have positive pressure in the intake manifold so the worst you might do is loose a very slight amount of boost but I would be surprised if you would see it on a boost gauge.

 

[goldneagle]

If I remember the intake/exhaust manifold gasket are one piece which means that you would have to remove the exhaust manifold to replace the gasket. There in lies another can of worms removing the exhaust manifold nuts from studs on the heads. Also the exhaust manifold is a multipiece assembly with sealing rings at the joints that could start to leak if you disassemble it. I usually don't like to use RTV in place of the correct gasket and ideally I would say replace it with a new gasket but in this case I would probably go with the ultra black hi temp RTV to seal the manifold. These engines have positive pressure in the intake manifold so the worst you might do is loose a very slight amount of boost but I would be surprised if you would see it on a boost gauge.

What about cutting the 2 sections of gaskets apart? If you place the intake manifold over the gasket and mark the edge, then cut the exhaust manifold gasket off?

 

[DieselBob]

What about cutting the 2 sections of gaskets apart? If you place the intake manifold over the gasket and mark the edge, then cut the exhaust manifold gasket off?

That was what I was going to suggest but then I figured I would be considered a . There is no reason at all that you couldn't do that. The way this gasket is made you would need to cut out the pieces for each intake runner.

 

[goldneagle]

That was what I was going to suggest but then I figured I would be considered a . There is no reason at all that you couldn't do that. The way this gasket is made you would need to cut out the pieces for each intake runner.

Couldn't he also buy gasket material and cut his own gaskets? Especially if he does each intake separately? I would use gasket adhesive to the manifold. Once dry I would cut the openings in the intake holes and the bolt holes.

Let me know hat you think of that idea.

 

[DieselBob]

That would be a even better idea. I am guessing that the stock gasket has a metal structure sandwiched in the middle because of it being used in the exhaust side that would make it a little harder to cut. It would be easy enough to cut the outside shape and like you said you could shellack the gasket in place on the manifold and then cut the runner out just like port matching.

 

[goldneagle]

That would be a even better idea. I am guessing that the stock gasket has a metal structure sandwiched in the middle because of it being used in the exhaust side that would make it a little harder to cut. It would be easy enough to cut the outside shape and like you said you could shellack the gasket in place on the manifold and then cut the runner out just like port matching.

Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[rickf]

I NEVER use those easy outs! They are designed to do just the opposite of what you want to do, they tighten the bolt in the hole. The best trick I have found is to place a nut over the offending broken bolt and crank the mig way up and weld through the hole in the nut directly to the end of the broken bolt and to the inside of the nut. Now go do something else for an hour................. The welding will have expanded the steel bolt in the hole, your walking away and letting it cool off will accomplish two things. First, you will not burn yourself or take the temper out of your tools and second, the bolt has now cooled and contracted. It expanded and had to stretch the hole a thousandth or so to make room and now it has shrunk back down leaving that little extra room. Put a wrench on the welded on nut and turn it out. I have had about a 95% success rate with this method. Especially nice with aluminum heads where you can't drill without destroying the head.

Rick