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Crane Ideas?
- Thread starter tklm539
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Added a receiver hitch for winching junk up on the trailer, among other things.
Not lined up with your trailer on the first shot?
Use your crane, pick the tongue up and align it!
I need to drop the hitch all the way to the bottom of the plate and it will match the rear hitch height perfectly.
Not lined up with your trailer on the first shot?Use your crane, pick the tongue up and align it! I need to drop the hitch all the way to the bottom of the plate and it will match the rear hitch height perfectly.
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Another Ahab
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Agreed. All these good threads will swamp me, but:
- This looks good
I'm in. Subscribed.
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2300lb snow plow is about all the crane wants. Think I may have bent it a little bit.
Another Ahab
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I still need to pull it out of it’s pocket and check it out. I think it put a few degrees in the inside tube at the pivot point. If it did I can just grind a small tack weld out, spin it 180, and wait for the next overload to straighten it out.
8madjack
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I had a similar problem with my bumper Crane that I made for my F-250, the boar was the same diameter as a axle stub I had, I straightened it and put the axle stub in it. Now it is strong enough to lift a full-dress motorcycle.
DB556
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Well I in my quest to find a Hiab boom cheap I found a Liftmoore 3200REL crane for free its 3200 pound with a 15ft swing for free!
Hopefully a Haib boom does the same some day....
Now I had to do a lot of work to get it going sandblast, paint(look so much better in OD than white and rust!) , new hydraulic pump and winch (well I already had the pump and winch on the shelf) rewire it.
I made a 18" tall stand out of 1/2 plate and 2"x3"x1/4" tube, I have it mounted at the rear of the bed driver side. Just tall enough to swing over the bed side if I have the troop rails out.
Now I need to make a jack leg with a heavy duty trailer jack and a subframe to go under the crane stand to tie it into the truck frame, right now its just bolted to the bed, but I'm not lifting anything with it yet so that should be fine.
But now here is the question I also want to mount my lincoln weldnpower 225 welder on the same side of the bed pretty much under the parked position for the crane. I might even use the lift lug of the welder to hold the hoist hook.
The welder weights 502lbs and the crane weighs 585lbs lets call it 1100lbs with bolts etc. Now Is that to much weight for one side of the truck? I plan on mounting my 395 MVT spare on the opposite side near the cab.
I'm also planning on a going to single 395/80R20 and doing a long bed bobber too....
I need a 6'x10' area to put my little skid steer in the bed to take to my camp. So mounting the spare and welder on the other side wont work well.
Hopefully a Haib boom does the same some day....
Now I had to do a lot of work to get it going sandblast, paint(look so much better in OD than white and rust!) , new hydraulic pump and winch (well I already had the pump and winch on the shelf) rewire it.
I made a 18" tall stand out of 1/2 plate and 2"x3"x1/4" tube, I have it mounted at the rear of the bed driver side. Just tall enough to swing over the bed side if I have the troop rails out.
Now I need to make a jack leg with a heavy duty trailer jack and a subframe to go under the crane stand to tie it into the truck frame, right now its just bolted to the bed, but I'm not lifting anything with it yet so that should be fine.
But now here is the question I also want to mount my lincoln weldnpower 225 welder on the same side of the bed pretty much under the parked position for the crane. I might even use the lift lug of the welder to hold the hoist hook.
The welder weights 502lbs and the crane weighs 585lbs lets call it 1100lbs with bolts etc. Now Is that to much weight for one side of the truck? I plan on mounting my 395 MVT spare on the opposite side near the cab.
I'm also planning on a going to single 395/80R20 and doing a long bed bobber too....
I need a 6'x10' area to put my little skid steer in the bed to take to my camp. So mounting the spare and welder on the other side wont work well.
Another Ahab
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DB556
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Well "free" did require me to replace every electrical component, hydraulic pump and lines, and slam the extensions out with my skid steer at full speed, a rather sketchy tow chain and my pintle hook on the deuce. because of all the rust and many years of rust, pine cones, nuts and twigs, squirrels!!!! (shakes fist)
Now after a few lifts i'm halfway looking at a IMT 3015 knuckle boom for $2000, its rated for 1900lbs at 15 ft straight out. The 3200rel is only good for 600lbs at 15ft straight out.
But the IMT knuckle boom is 1200lbs heavier, and cost money instead of days of free time, But I also saw an even heavier duty(and much heavier) knuckle boom up near cleveland for much less at $700
So many crane choices....
rustystud
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That is a very cool crane design you came up with Jbulach !
rustystud
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I would go with the biggest crane you can get. You can always load less then capacity, but you never can load over capacity. The frame can always be beefed up to handle the extra weight. Remember the deuce frame is "not" hardened like the 5 tons are.
DB556
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Well thought I might bring this back up, had a whole post typed up and chrome crashed..
In less words than I was typing before. How do you guys think one could make a bed dump and have a crane mounted in the traditional
service truck location (rear bed corner)?
I was thinking a subframe with substantial hinges (1 inch plus pin size) and possible a hydraulic clamp down cylinder interlocked with a sequence valve?
Also aaw this in FB ohio market place if anybody was looking for a knuckle boom and a cat 3208 cheap.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/469294801111245/
In less words than I was typing before. How do you guys think one could make a bed dump and have a crane mounted in the traditional
service truck location (rear bed corner)?
I was thinking a subframe with substantial hinges (1 inch plus pin size) and possible a hydraulic clamp down cylinder interlocked with a sequence valve?
Also aaw this in FB ohio market place if anybody was looking for a knuckle boom and a cat 3208 cheap.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/469294801111245/
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How big of a crane are you thinking? My bed dumps, and my crane just anchors in the bed itself with no issues. See post #74 of this thread.
davidb56
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the bed is pretty flimsy, so you had better put some cross members timing into the main bed frame.
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Not if done properly, depending on crane size.
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DB556
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Well its a 1500lbs autocrane 8005, much smaller than my old liftmore 3200, but much lighter than my hiab 650 knuckleboom (1500lbs vs 2800lbs)
I've started drawing up a mount that comes up through the bed with 3x3x1/4" square tube with a 1/2" top plate.
With two side cross tube going under the bed to tie into the massive hinge (1.5" pin, and 3" round bar) I'm building,
and two tubes running forward which will have a interlock pin(1.5") with a two limit switches the crane will only be powered if the pin is fully
inserted and will only allow the bed to dump if the pin is fully removed.
I'll post a drawing once I get home.
I've started drawing up a mount that comes up through the bed with 3x3x1/4" square tube with a 1/2" top plate.
With two side cross tube going under the bed to tie into the massive hinge (1.5" pin, and 3" round bar) I'm building,
and two tubes running forward which will have a interlock pin(1.5") with a two limit switches the crane will only be powered if the pin is fully
inserted and will only allow the bed to dump if the pin is fully removed.
I'll post a drawing once I get home.
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Hey, I just had had to move little stuff...........
Tire Wheels at 178 pounds way too much for me to throw around.
Tire Wheels at 178 pounds way too much for me to throw around.
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davidb56
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Yea, I got one of those in my bed. Being a former structural steel welder for decades, I can bet that without some cross members welded under the flimsy sheet steel bed, we'd pull that skin right up with a 1000lb load. Cross members can be welded in place and made from channel or even sheet steel broke to form a channel. The deuce crossmembers taper to the outside from about the main rail area, probably to allow for tire clearance when crossing ditches etc. So the farther out, the smaller the member will be. Having some 3/16 plate broke with the taper would keep the framework symmetrical, and maybe save on tire rub if there is a clearance issue when the suspension walks.