CTIS and Arduino

[Third From Texas]

Here's the A1R cannon connection and model number as per your msg.

I'm 99.99% sure that it's the same connector as the A0 and A1 trucks use.

 

[Ronmar]

I believe they all use the same connector, i think the difference lies in which pin in the connector receives power, which determines how the controller is supposed to behave. Had this discussion a long while back with someone and we discovered different power on different pins…

 

[Third From Texas]

I believe they all use the same connector, i think the difference lies in which pin in the connector receives power, which determines how the controller is supposed to behave. Had this discussion a long while back with someone and we discovered different power on different pins…

Yeah, I'd love to find the actual schematic for the A1R controller.

I swear I read that one version was compatible with all, but the other only worked with the intended truck. It was all second-hand discussion if I recall. I also seem to recall one seller warning a purchaser that the one he was trying to purchase wouldn't work in his truck.

/dunno

 

[Third From Texas]

SPICER made 1 and 2 channel PCUs but that's about as far as I've been able to come up with.

 

[Ronmar]

I will look back thru my notes when I get home.

 

[Ronmar]

Well from the A1 schematic, it shows 3 possible power feeds(H,M & Z). With 3 feed points, you could control up to 7 different program responses/configurations. If they kept pin H as a constant, as it seems to be shown as connected in all the info I have, you could switch between 4 different programs.

As for compatibility, as Christian mentioned, from A0 to A1 they shifted from pulsed speed sense to data buss speed signal. The controllers appear to have, and probably do have the same pinout, but wether they are programmed the same, and how the truck is connected to those pins, I believe determines compatibility and function…

 

[Ned81]

Not sure this helps with the discussion but I have a0 truck. I purchased a black controller ( don’t have the part number handy) and it did work in my truck but the pressures were off. Hwy was about 80psi with stock pressures sensor. The worst part was the overspeed would kick on at around 35 mph in hwy. even lower speed at lower pressure settings. This is why I went with Christian’s solution.
Point here is the newer controller did work with my old truck so I would guess the opposite would be true too. Since Christian’s controller is customizable and doesn’t read the speed sensor I would think it would work on any of these trucks. But I’m guessing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ronmar]

Oh ye

Not sure this helps with the discussion but I have a0 truck. I purchased a black controller ( don’t have the part number handy) and it did work in my truck but the pressures were off. Hwy was about 80psi with stock pressures sensor. The worst part was the overspeed would kick on at around 35 mph in hwy. even lower speed at lower pressure settings. This is why I went with Christian’s solution.
Point here is the newer controller did work with my old truck so I would guess the opposite would be true too. Since Christian’s controller is customizable and doesn’t read the speed sensor I would think it would work on any of these trucks. But I’m guessing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, Christians arduino based controller should work on any truck, same as the manual approach, as the original controllers used the same PCU control and pressure sensor pinouts on that cannon plug H is 28V, F is ground. R, B & C(to F) are the 3 solenoids. b,c & j are the PCU pressure sensor Lines. T is the wet tank pressure switch. If gives a path to ground when the tank is over 117PSI, and opens that ground path when the tank goes below 89…

 

[Plasa]

Thank you Ronmar! I think we should test it on a A1R, Third from Texas wrote me and I will send him a unit for testing. Right now is difficult to find a vendor for the MIL plug, but I will do my best
From the schematics I am quite sure that the important pins (solenoids, wet tank pressure and pressure transducer) are the same, so as long as we do not need the speed pin everything should work like on A0/A1.
Christian

 

[Guyfang]

Ned, Please write your State in the location block, IAW Forum rules.

 

[RRaulston]

So, are these aftermarket controllers available??

 

[TomTime]

So, are these aftermarket controllers available??

Thats what they say. Contact @Plasa.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

So, are these aftermarket controllers available??

Very limited supply, based on his time. I heard the price is now 5000 large grade A eggs and 60 gallons of Milk. Ship to Italy. Pack well.

 

[Plasa]

Deleted due forum roles.

Christian

 

[AKPacker]

I'm interested in one, were these confirmed to work with A1R trucks?

 

[Plasa]

Yes, they work also on A1R because no connection to the can bus is needed. The CTIS is almost isolated from the rest, except the speed sensor signal. But that I do not use.
I also rebuild the controller to be more failure save against electrical issues. Plus it now have 5 presets instead of 4. It have the 4 original pressures plus a new highway pressure. Of course all 5 presets can be changed and put custom ones.
Unfortunately the old ecu isn't upgradable because I significantly change the electronic parts. It's almost completely redesigned.

Christian

I'm interested in one, were these confirmed to work with A1R trucks?

 

[Ronmar]

Yes, they work also on A1R because no connection to the can bus is needed. The CTIS is almost isolated from the rest, except the speed sensor signal. But that I do not use.
I also rebuild the controller to be more failure save against electrical issues. Plus it now have 5 presets instead of 4. It have the 4 original pressures plus a new highway pressure. Of course all 5 presets can be changed and put custom ones.
Unfortunately the old ecu isn't upgradable because I significantly change the electronic parts. It's almost completely redesigned.

Christian

You shared your code with me once upon a time and sadly I don’t remember the specifics of your programming. I have 2 questions after helping a few people resolve ctis issues.
1. Are you using the wet tank pressure switch input?
2. How hard would it be to invert its logic input to your controller, to allow for the use of a very common $10 electric air compressor control switch(closes at 90psi, opens at 120), vis the very expensive one that our trucks came with, which closes at ~120, and opens ~90?

 

[Plasa]

Hello!
Yes, I use the wet tank input switch. There is no need to change any logic input, the original one close the signal to ground at 120 and reopens at 80 or something like that.
At least you use a switch to ground you can use anything. Important is that it's closed to ground when you want to give signal of enough pressure.

Christian

You shared your code with me once upon a time and sadly I don’t remember the specifics of your programming. I have 2 questions after helping a few people resolve ctis issues.
1. Are you using the wet tank pressure switch input?
2. How hard would it be to invert its logic input to your controller, to allow for the use of a very common $10 electric air compressor control switch(closes at 90psi, opens at 120), vis the very expensive one that our trucks came with, which closes at ~120, and opens ~90?

 

[Ronmar]

That was the point of the question, a switch that closes at 120 and opens at 90 is not all that easy to find, and the original CTIS wet tank switches are obnoxiously expensive.

how hard would it be to invert that logic, as a close at 90, open at 120 air compressor control switch is a very common $10 part on amazon...

 

[Plasa]

That's easy, it's just inverting the boolean value. But it's a risk because with no signal the controller thinks he have full tanks. So there is no protection against wiring failures.

Christian

That was the point of the question, a switch that closes at 120 and opens at 90 is not all that easy to find, and the original CTIS wet tank switches are obnoxiously expensive.

how hard would it be to invert that logic, as a close at 90, open at 120 air compressor control switch is a very common $10 part on amazon...