CTIS trouble shooting

[Ronmar]

The stock sensor is a 100PSI, 0-5V. The controller is looking or adjusting the pressure in highway to get to the return voltage for 55PSI, which is 2.75V

if you install a 150PSI sensor, when the controller adjusts the pressure to get that same 2.75V out of the sensor, the required pressure to do so is now 82.5PSI...(55% of 150) so you are looking for a 150PSI sensor in that connector style.

there have been a couple discussions on this, some of those may have P/N’s...

 

[Third From Texas]

Video has link to sources but doesn't specify which pressure rating. Is there a 75 psi one or which specific transducer do we need? Got an actual part number/supplier?

As Ronmar said, you want the one-fiddy. The Amazon link should be correct.

I'll note the size in the comments, thanks.

 

[Celticlady]

Good time to get those tires up to working highway pressure and save tread/improve mileage(?)

Thanks

you have a PN for this transducer? place to buy it?

My truck rarely see anything but gravel roads, but that could change

 

[Third From Texas]

Thanks

you have a PN for this transducer? place to buy it?

My truck rarely see anything but gravel roads, but that could change

It's in the comments section of the video. The Amazon like should work.

Sometimes the mods don't like links here.

 

[ckouba]

The stock sensor is a 100PSI, 0-5V. The controller is looking or adjusting the pressure in highway to get to the return voltage for 55PSI, which is 2.75V

if you install a 150PSI sensor, when the controller adjusts the pressure to get that same 2.75V out of the sensor, the required pressure to do so is now 82.5PSI...(55% of 150) so you are looking for a 150PSI sensor in that connector style.

there have been a couple discussions on this, some of those may have P/N’s...

Thanks Ronmar. I was trying to correlate the tire psi to the transducer psi and wasn't sure how to match them up. This is on my list of things to do....

 

[Celticlady]

UPDATE

Got my transducer

 

[MUR534]

3) pressure relief pops at 120. Pressure swt closed. Open at 89.

Had to dig around to find some CP pins.

Jumper H to R
turn on pwr swt.
Momentarily jumper H to B.
loud air venting as long as I hold B. If I hold it -all the air goes out and cab settles in about 10 seconds.

2) compressor pumps frt & r brakes gauges to 90 in about 3 min. Cab raises at 70ish. R brakes gauge indicates 120 at pop off. Ft is about 100ish. Ft gauge is jumpy.

If I am understanding correctly Sounds like I have a hose or seal failure. RH side somewhere. I am going to have to get help. It bleeds off to fast to find by myself.

oil in brake valve is helping a lot in just 2 hr soak.

You did you jump H to R but H to B at the same time? Do you just jump H to R until you turn the power switch on? Then momentarily jump h to b?

 

[Ronmar]

I take 2 jumper wires and twist 2 ends together(like a V) and insert it into pin H/24v source. You install one jumper H-R, that powers the control solenoid which must be powered to seal the system and allow it to hold pressure.

If you then take the end of the other jumper and apply power from H to B, that will open the supply solenoid and admit air to pressurize the sealed system. Usually less than a second of H-B is enough air to open the wheel valves and the system should stabelize at tire pressure.

When you remove H-R or turn off the switch, control opens, vents the system and dump.valves open briefly as wheel.valves are closed.

If after adding air it starts dumping, you have leakage and the dumps are venting air to match the dropping pressure caused by the leaks...

 

[MUR534]

I take 2 jumper wires and twist 2 ends together(like a V) and insert it into pin H/24v source. You install one jumper H-R, that powers the control solenoid which must be powered to seal the system and allow it to hold pressure.

If you then take the end of the other jumper and apply power from H to B, that will open the supply solenoid and admit air to pressurize the sealed system. Usually less than a second of H-B is enough air to open the wheel valves and the system should stabelize at tire pressure.

When you remove H-R or turn off the switch, control opens, vents the system and dump.valves open briefly as wheel.valves are closed.

If after adding air it starts dumping, you have leakage and the dumps are venting air to match the dropping pressure caused by the leaks...

Perfect. Thank you! Seems like mine is losing tire pressure after I turn the vehicle on.