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CUCV 24v to 12v How-To

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
I have weighed this both ways. The pros of the 24v is in cold weather it starts way better.no question about it. Also keeping it 24v stock keeps it more desirable as no one wants someone else's wiring
Mess.As far as a starter "on the road" a 12v one will work but don't expect it to last long.

Now the pros of 12v is you now have both batteries as a buffer like for a winch , plow etc. you can also convert to serpentine belt and HO water pump and fan.
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
Get a high torque starter meant for the 6.5L turbo diesels. 12v starts a LOT faster then.
I own numerous 6.5s and 6.2s. They start the same if you ask me. There is a Powermaster for 6.5's that is supposed to be better. Never tried one. I can tell you afer owning and working on many of these I ain't never seen a 12v start like my 24v.
 

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
868
503
93
Location
tucson AZ
Unaffiliated : Pics of the rock shields are in this thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/72038-closeups-cucv-window-guards.html
The vehicle previously saw Border Partol service, the shields are to protect agents from rocks thrown from the MX side.

A's n 8's : I have a 41 cal derringer like in your avatar, the previous owner had it chromed it 1950...its unusual to see that.
 
Last edited:

dseelman

New member
4
0
0
Location
Westmoreland, NY
I have a possibly stupid question. Let me start with the background info. I bought a M1008 from the side of the road. The previous owner had converted it to 12V. Even when it's warm it starts really sluggishly. Could it still have the 24V starter in it? Would it even turn over?
 

davesbf

New member
49
1
0
Location
nazareth,pa.
I'm glad to hear there is finally a dialog opening for the option of 12 volt conversion,.Up till now all senior member posts have tried to imprint to newer cucv owners that the (leave it alone)theory is the best way.Since 1966 i've been working on all military types of vehicles 6 volt through 28 volt and still prefer the standard civi 12 volt.The 12/24 volt hybrids were (off the line) models as an experiment to save military spending by buying already designed proven vehicles,then added goodies so joe 6 pak can drive them without too much brainpower,hence all the relays added,trouble is after 25 years all relays and electrical contacts are so badly corroded that you may as well figure on just replacing everything electrical.also radiators had an extra engine oil cooler that rot through and can contaminate engine oil as well as tranny.I will agree to 24 volt presarvation until it fails then change it to 12 volt.in my area there is not 1 garage mechanic that will repair a cucv.I see where some first-time buyers ask if they should get a cucv as a principle car/driver,i say good greif11111 and good luck.2cents
 

dseelman

New member
4
0
0
Location
Westmoreland, NY
So, I decided to test my theory of having a 24V starter. I bought a cable and connected the positive from one battery to the negative of the other. What a difference. Turned over much faster. It still didn't start though. It's about 35 degrees F here. A lot of smoke came out the tailpipes, but no start. Also, I don't think the glowplugs worked because they didn't click like they usually do. The problem there may be that the resistor block is gone from the truck and the plugs run off 12V. I hope I didn't burn anything out. Aside from that, is there anything electric that is needed to start the engine? Besides not charging the batteries, could I harm anything by hooking it up as 24V without the resistor block? I did order a 12V starter for it, but I'm impatient.
 

deercoker

Member
72
13
8
Location
jonesborough/Tennessee
I need help! The police dept had done a scalp job on the 12 conversion on my 85 1009, so I decided to try and at least do the roscommon conv. opting for only 1 alternator, I had a very reputable auto electric shop rebuild it and installed it according to the roscommen equip.directions and everything has been fine for about 2 weeks, since I bought the blazer the voltmeter of course does not work on 12 volt so I installed autozone 12volt in its place in the dash, dash voltmeter readings were between just a little above 14 volts with engine running, I confirmed this with my digital voltmeter at the batteries and was getting about 14.3, for the last few days now my dash voltmeter jumps from over 14 to over 15 volts, at the batteries I get 14.4 to 15.6 volts back and forth, I had the alternator retested at the electric shop and could not duplicate the high readings, I reinstalled it and redid the grounds to the engine and then to the body, did fine for about 30 minutes of running the started the high readings again and noticed the dash lights and headlights would dim and brighten continuously, I have a new belt installed and is tightened properly, any suggestions? could it be that I grounded the alternator to the engine to body but bypassed the frame?
 

M1008driver

New member
522
3
0
Location
Great Falls, Montana
I will be one of the few to say the 12 volt Roscommon conversion is the best thing I have done to my M1008. All parts are available locally and come with a limited lifetime warranty. As far as cold, I have not seen nor had any problems. I even have a spin-on fuel filter without a heater and still no problems. To each his own I guess. If you convert please use the roscommon method and follow the directions carefully so you can trouble shoot later if needed. Peace!
 

unaffiliated

Member
394
11
18
Location
Coosa, Georgia
I'm getting ready to do the Roscommon 12 volt conversion today. I already have my brand new 12 volt starter from Advance Auto Parts for $186.00. I am opting for method 3 so I will have 2 complete charging systems, one for starting and the original accessories and one for the winch I plan to install and other accessories.
 
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