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CUCV Door Latch Post replacement

Barrman

Well-known member
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I remember a thread from years ago about the plate in the B pillar with a threaded hole. This plate is what the post screws into. The plate is also made to move so the post can be adjusted. The thread from years ago which I could not find today talked about how the plate could fall down into the bottom of the B pillar when the post was removed. There is no way to access the bottom of the B pillar to get the plate back.

With that in mind, I used big welding magnets around the post and very carefully removed the post and carefully screwed in a new one that was round and had the plastic bushing on it. I did the same for the other side of the truck.

I tried the same method a few months ago on the Blue Bomber. The ex USAF Suburban needed all 4 post changed out. I put my magnets on the B pillar, removed the post and heard "CLUNK" as the drivers door plate hit the bottom of the B pillar. Not a good feeling. Thankfully, the Suburban has an access hole down there behind the plastic trim. I was able to put it back in place and replace the post. The same thing happened on the passenger door. I went to do the rear door post and didn't because there is no access of any kind from the C pillar. I didn't change them out.

Today, Colton and I went to change the post out on RED. Before we started, we tried to look behind the plate or inside the B pillar. Since the seat belt reel is not installed yet, we could see the plate through a small hole. Along with the retaining pieces to hold the plate up. I still didn't trust it, so a screw driver was put in behind the plate as I unscrewed the post. The retainers actually held it in place and I was able to take the attached picture of the plate held up with a bit of room between the threads and the bottom of the hole in the B pillar.

That gap means you can probably loosen your post, let if go as far down as possible, look at it from the bottom and see if there is a gap. If you have the gap, chances are your plate will not fall and it is held up by the retaining pieces. If there is no gap. Then I would suggest you pull the seat belt reel off, look in the hole behind it at the back of the plate and see if you still have retaining pieces there. I couldn't get a picture of the retaining pieces through the hole. Sorry.

Those of you who have no plastic bushing on your door latch post will really benefit from changing in a set of new ones. Most auto stores have them for around $7.00. They make a huge difference on how easy the door closes. I figured somebody out there was a worried as me about the plate falling down and then having to cut a hole in the B pillar to get it out. Hope this helps.
 

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Recovry4x4

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I just did them on my bambalance Saturday. I bought a box of 25 striker bushings on an auction site for less than $10. I replace them on everything I own. I remember the clunk on my burb when I did it. Was a pretty easy fix. On the CUCV you can reach around and hold it. I've sent out several sets of them to friends and still have some left. They make a world of difference on these trucks. Pointer, lift up and down on the back of the door when barely open. If it has play you may need a pin and bushing kit. Good post Barrman
 

mikev

Active member
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Culleoka, TN
Earlier today, I just changed out the strikers on my '86 M1008 with Dorman ones (made in china though...) and on the pickups, nothing holds the threaded backing plate - you just reach around and hold it in place.

I changed out the strikers on my two M1009s and must have got lucky as the backing plates stayed in place during the switch...
 
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