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Cucv glow plug wiring

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Hmmm. Shooting from the hip (so I'm probably wrong) I'd say it's 14-ish. Mebbe 12. Each GP is pulling roughly 12-13 amps peak, and its not a long distance, so I doubt you really need to go to 10 gauge. It's been a few years since I changed out the stock connectors (replaced with .250 connects for the AC60Gs), so I'm going from memory.
 

saltman

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Cleveland, MO
Marcus I’m with you and that is EXACTLY why I am asking, because if one goes by the book here at least from the images posted it’s looking like 18, call me crazy, but I really don’t think those oem green wires are 18 gauge 🤷‍♂️
 

SomeNewGuy

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95
18
Location
VA
Hmmm. Shooting from the hip (so I'm probably wrong) I'd say it's 14-ish. Mebbe 12. Each GP is pulling roughly 12-13 amps peak, and its not a long distance, so I doubt you really need to go to 10 gauge. It's been a few years since I changed out the stock connectors (replaced with .250 connects for the AC60Gs), so I'm going from memory.
With electronics, I dunno my elbow from my... whatever. Question is, inst it better to go UP in guage when in doubt, assuming the proper fuse is 'up river' to ensure the electromatronic doesnt fry itself, but the extra wire to ensure it can pull enough power? Or am I more ignorant than I think I am?
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Which is bigger? A 12 gauge shotgun or a 20 gauge shotgun?

With shotguns, sheet metal, and wire gauge, a bigger number is a smaller thing.

But when it comes to railroad gauge, I have no idea! :D

You won't hurt anything by going to one gauge size bigger (smaller number) than stock. So if the stock was 16 gauge, then 14 gauge would be a nice upgrade.

(y)
 

SomeNewGuy

Member
59
95
18
Location
VA
Which is bigger? A 12 gauge shotgun or a 20 gauge shotgun?

With shotguns, sheet metal, and wire gauge, a bigger number is a smaller thing.

But when it comes to railroad gauge, I have no idea! :D

You won't hurt anything by going to one gauge size bigger (smaller number) than stock. So if the stock was 16 gauge, then 14 gauge would be a nice upgrade.

(y)
Man... only thing I know is green tastes better than blue
 

antennaclimber

Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
State College, PA
Using on an online voltage drop calculator.
Voltage Drop Calculator

Stock 18ga wire 5ft in length will have a drop of .796212 volts.

An upgrade to a 14ga wire 5ft in length will have a drop of .394920 volts.
So one can expect a .401292 volt increase by going to a 14ga wire at 12 volts with a 12.5 amp draw.

The above calculations are based on the following parameters:
5ft long copper wire
12.0 VDC
12.5 amp draw

I used 5ft as a guess for the longest GP wire length. Some of the GP wires will be shorter.
 

M1009_SPAIN

Active member
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161
33
Location
Spain
Hi Antennaclimber,

Had a look at the wiring diagram here and compared with the actual wiring in my M1009.
Please see attached picture, Green arrow and circle near the bottom.
May I ask you to have an expert look at that connection?
Could it be that GM by mistake crossed the wires in the green box, when they were drawing the diagram?
There are physically 2 black wires coming off the first (bottom) post which is the "ground", so I understand and the yellow wire from the temp sensor goes to the second post, which then is "Temp Sensor (+)".
Not that this is a major change but for correctness, in particular for simple minds like myself, who have a hard time understanding any electronics and schematics...

Thank you,
Jake
Could the temperature sensor on the driver's side rear part be used to install a temperature sensor on the dashboard? and leave the yellow + cable and the black - cable of the sensor without connection, since my GP card is dead and I had to make a manual switch to the glow plug and the wait light that has never turned on since I bought the truck.

thank you
 

xlcooplx

New member
6
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Location
Marion, SC
Could the temperature sensor on the driver's side rear part be used to install a temperature sensor on the dashboard? and leave the yellow + cable and the black - cable of the sensor without connection, since my GP card is dead and I had to make a manual switch to the glow plug and the wait light that has never turned on since I bought the truck.

thank you
I realize this is an old post but I stumbled across it while searching for some info on my M1008. I have just replaced this rear temp sender in my truck with the SU102 from Autozone (I found the part number here on SS). Once I got the sender, I realized its a late model sender for a LS engine, which I am extremely familiar with.

Now, most LS temp sensors are two wire sensors just like the one for this truck. HOWEVER, 1998 LS1 Camaros used a three wire sensor. Two wires are for the resistance just like the SU102; however, it has a third wire that you could run to your temp gauge in the truck. This could keep the original sender functioning but gives you an additional wire to run to a temp gauge within the truck. TX111 at your local Oreilly Auto. Hope this helps someone going forward.
 
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