CUCV Heaven, My build of a 1009 and 1008

[WWRD99]

I think it fell off. That would take great effort to get up there and hold the nuts while untightening the bolts. As I recall they came OEM with 5/16" fine thread bolts with a star washer. Not to start controversy but a friend of mine lost a license plate off the front of his truck and assumed someone had stolen it and he had it bolted on with 1/4" bolts. I was cutting firewood on his farm and found the license plate laying in the field. 1 bolt was laying 2 feet from the plate. I reinstalled the license plate on his truck and used nylok nuts and it is still there to this day. Just saying. Happy Holidays.

Yeah someone really wanted it bad! I bolted it on there with 3/8 ×16 grade 8 bolts with a lock washer and got them very tight. His truck didn't come with one but I found one on marketplace. We're gonna weld the nuts on the new one.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[cucvrus]

Yeah someone really wanted it bad! I bolted it on there with 3/8 ×16 grade 8 bolts with a lock washer and got them very tight. His truck didn't come with one but I found one on marketplace. We're gonna weld the nuts on the new one.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Just use lock nuts the crimped type. I took them off many times they are not as easy as a few bolts. Where would it sit to allow time to remove it?

 

[WWRD99]

Just use lock nuts the crimped type. I took them off many times they are not as easy as a few bolts. Where would it sit to allow time to remove it?

We're guessing school...he parks in the back since he's a night student. Work is wide open with cameras so we don't think there. Hoping some kid drives in with it mounted to his truck. They can be that stupid.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[WWRD99]

Ok so the last few weeks we've been fighting the return lines blowing off the injectors. I had the braided 3.5mm hose and 6.5mm clamps that didn't work. Then I found a dorman kit that had the 3.5mm hose non braided and 6mm clamps. Nothing held. So off the the kiss world and had him check the return line going to the tank. Turned out when he put the tank in he pinched the hose on the frame...so the return was blocked....ugh. So now he has the new hoses and clamps on it and it's running great. He got the parking brake cables all hooked up today too. Tomorrow should be a good day.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[87cr250r]

You found the cause of your problem but for everybody else, use Viton tubing from an industrial supply house. The original tubing was Viton but most of the aftermarket stuff isn't. The aftermarket tubing will be hard and full of cracks after a year or two of daily driving. With good quality Viton tubing you don't need the clamps which simplifies everything.

 

[WWRD99]

You found the cause of your problem but for everybody else, use Viton tubing from an industrial supply house. The original tubing was Viton but most of the aftermarket stuff isn't. The aftermarket tubing will be hard and full of cracks after a year or two of daily driving. With good quality Viton tubing you don't need the clamps which simplifies everything.

Yeah it was frustrating not thinking the new tank and lines that the return got pinched going in. The kit I got is called FKM which from what I can find is decent stuff...some searches said it was the actual material Viton is named after but not 100% sure. My son can replace them in about 20 minutes since he can contort himself in ways I can't anymore!! The tm called and used the clamps 11663000 which I found but nothing local unfortunately. The contitech 3.5mm braided line is what I wanted to use with the 6.5mm clamps but gave up on it thinking the clamping force wasn't enough. I haven't had this return line problem before but if I do I'll be running an air check into the line for obstructions pretty quick!

 

[87cr250r]

FKM is the generic name for Viton.

 

[WWRD99]

FKM is the generic name for Viton.

Oh that's great news then!! I really didn't know. So that kit is actually a decent one then. Advance auto for the win there...I really was not expecting much for 20$.

 

[WWRD99]

Alternator rebuild day for the 1009. Unfortunately one of the rear bearings got damaged so I won't get both done tonight. These are easy and fairly inexpensive to do plus I get to keep the made in USA cases and internals. Got new fans for this set.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[WWRD99]

So someone got something for his 1009 the other day. The funny story was 2 falls ago. I ordered the tag m1009...state said it was available and ready to go. I hit the notary and waited 3 months only to have it denied. That summer we're out looking at a local surplus guys stuff only to find that very tag on the back of a 1009...we both laughed a ton now knowing why it got denied. It hadn't been registered in a long time so the computer didn't pick it up.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[WWRD99]

Ok so I got a question about the horn wiring. I was driving the other day and the horn blew for a second, then stopped, but then the horn button didn't work. Came home and found the horn fuse blown. Pop a new fuse in and turn on the blackout switch and the horn blows! Removed the relay and the horn still blows! So I found a diode right at the horn relay plug that had failed for some reason. It's way up on a short harness so I'd have to remove the fuse box to really get to it to replace it. I cut it and now the horn works normal. The diode goes from the fused power to the horn so its a bypass of the relay. I have no idea why there would be that on there other than some kind of radio interference possibly? I'm not going to replace it. The second thing that hit at the same time was the rear brake light bulbs burned out...turn signals wouldn't flash right. Very dim and slow. Replaced the bulbs but it still wasn't right on the dash. You all know that one ground under the dash that goes next to the parking brake...well I tested it at the firewall and had very low resistance...thought that was ok but I still wasn't getting the correct ground to the relays or the dash. Pulled some tape and found a bad crimp connector...it was warm!...ugh...so I fixed that and now everything works. That ground does a ton of stuff inside the truck. I think I'm gonna do more tape pulling and make sure the splice is good where all those grounds come together.
Any ideas on that diode throw them up!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[Mullaney]

Ok so I got a question about the horn wiring. I was driving the other day and the horn blew for a second, then stopped, but then the horn button didn't work. Came home and found the horn fuse blown. Pop a new fuse in and turn on the blackout switch and the horn blows! Removed the relay and the horn still blows! So I found a diode right at the horn relay plug that had failed for some reason. It's way up on a short harness so I'd have to remove the fuse box to really get to it to replace it. I cut it and now the horn works normal. The diode goes from the fused power to the horn so its a bypass of the relay. I have no idea why there would be that on there other than some kind of radio interference possibly? I'm not going to replace it. The second thing that hit at the same time was the rear brake light bulbs burned out...turn signals wouldn't flash right. Very dim and slow. Replaced the bulbs but it still wasn't right on the dash. You all know that one ground under the dash that goes next to the parking brake...well I tested it at the firewall and had very low resistance...thought that was ok but I still wasn't getting the correct ground to the relays or the dash. Pulled some tape and found a bad crimp connector...it was warm!...ugh...so I fixed that and now everything works. That ground does a ton of stuff inside the truck. I think I'm gonna do more tape pulling and make sure the splice is good where all those grounds come together.
Any ideas on that diode throw them up!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

.
My best guess is that the wire that runs down through the column has rubbed itself bare somewhere along the way. Attach a new piece of 14ga to the old wire and pull it out through the bottom of the column, then thread it to where it touches the wiring harness.

 

[87cr250r]

It's called a flyback diode. When the coil in the relay is de-energized it creates a reverse voltage spike which causes an arc across the contacts that control the relay. The flyback diode shorts the reverse voltage to prolong the life of the contact

With that said, all of these flyback diodes fail on these trucks. It usually causes the horn to stick on. The contacts in the horn button are robust. Cut the diode out and carry on.

 

[adf5565]

I'm pretty sure one of the first things I did after purchasing my m1008 was removing that diode as my horn would blow constantly like yours.

 

[WWRD99]

It's called a flyback diode. When the coil in the relay is de-energized it creates a reverse voltage spike which causes an arc across the contacts that control the relay. The flyback diode shorts the reverse voltage to prolong the life of the contact

With that said, all of these flyback diodes fail on these trucks. It usually causes the horn to stick on. The contacts in the horn button are robust. Cut the diode out and carry on.

Ahhhhh that makes perfect sense it just didn't click until you said that. The relays that are 4 prong have that built in. I'll pin a jumper wire in it and call it a day.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[87cr250r]

You don't want a jumper, that would be a dead short. Just remove the flyback diode. If you want a flyback diode buy one with a higher reverse voltage rating. It's most likely a 1N4000 series. 1N4001 has the lowest voltage rating. 1N4007 is the highest. Make sure what you get is higher than what it replaces.

 

[WWRD99]

You don't want a jumper, that would be a dead short. Just remove the flyback diode. If you want a flyback diode buy one with a higher reverse voltage rating. It's most likely a 1N4000 series. 1N4001 has the lowest voltage rating. 1N4007 is the highest. Make sure what you get is higher than what it replaces.

Yup that would be a quick spark.. wasn't thinking...if I do anything I'll wire up a 4 pin relay...be nice if I could find a male connector to plug into the harness but not 100% needed.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[WWRD99]

Had fun digging through all the surplus stuff today getting ready for spring Carlisle. I found 3 of these little gems for the drivers rear head. Nice that it comes with the harness adapter and directions. I think one of these is getting put in now too. New steering wheel and return lines look great in this 1009.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk