So I tried that DIODE under the dash and it did nothing. It did measure a little different in diode check of 500 that was in there vs 450 of what I replaced it with. It did only work one way as designed as well. I tried a relay I had with no change but since it i easy why not. I am going to remove number 2 alternator and get it tested and see if the internal diode pack is ok. It is acting like one of the three is not working once it gets hot. I usually don't have a problem figuring out what the issue is but this one is getting old. Rebuilt this just about 2 years ago I think.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
CUCV Heaven, My build of a 1009 and 1008
- Thread starter WWRD99
- Start date
So haven't posted on the new 1009 in a bit but he's got the engine back together with a flowkooler water pump. Swapped ip from one of his spare engines. He's painted or cold blackened everything under the hood. Had a fun run to a surplus store too...yes that a nos rim for a 1009, harmonic balancers, flywheel, turn signal wiring in the column, shackle mounts, Dana 60 locking hubs, bare head, front crank pulleys and all kinds of fun!! We have a blast chasing down parts for these. He's got one heck of a room full of it.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
So we found my sons 1009 motor mounts were absolutely gone. I read through the forum here and found @cucvrus said the energy suspension 3.1116g fit perfectly so I bought 2! Another tip he had that I found is get 2 5/16 bolts to hold the clam together once drilled apart. It worked perfectly! So we got one in tonight and will do the passenger side tomorrow. Thanks for all the great tips on this forum!!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Rear floor was removed and everything sand blasted with the pressure washer attachment. Primed and painted everything. Replacement floor fitted and ready to panel bond in. Got some rear seat pockets to replace the ones that were in there. Got about everything we need to finish this up but a set of tires. This one's going smooth since we went through more with the other 1009. Goal is to have it painted before it gets to cold out.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Found some more NOS parts the other day. Both mounts are new. I ended up using a green mount that my son dug out of the storage container though since he wanted the tan one. Ground down the old river nuts and they popped right out. Installed new ones and it's all mounted up. Dang axle started leaking out here now too.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
So I got the axle seal from the parts store today and replaced it. I found all the bolts weren't all that tight. Came off with a quick hit with the impact. I did find a had the correct socket for the axle nut to remove it if I have to as well. I'm gonna change this diff oil this weekend.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
I have that stuff too....I love it...this gasket is metal with some kind of gasket coating on it. I hope it works!! I did torque the bolts so hopefully it crushed tight. There wasn't much gasket or whatever they used left. My thought is the axle shaft might have been shifting a tiny bit and ground it up...but that 100% theory!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Yeah, sorry, I should have taken a pic of the part in the bag! Already installed it, but I bought 2 to do the other side, too. It is a pretty solid gasket. It's not paper, so I hope it lasts! Be curious if it'll crush 2 x if I have to remove it again. I used the old bolts...wondering if I should put some blue lock tight on them, but I'm putting them being loose since they might not have been torqued from the get-go. It's only 5$, so it's worth the buy! Bolts getting loose on their own that size would be odd!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
The gasket is tight on the bolts, so I'm hoping it seals it.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,474
- 10,441
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
The metal gaskets always worked for me. I would change them every time I had to remove the axle. Once and done.
Got the rear diff fluid changed on the 1028 and swapped in a nos cover as well. It has 02/08 painted on it, I think the fluid was due for a change. I did change the other axle shaft seal, and it had the same paper stuff as a gasket, but not much was left. Kids painting all day, so he primed and painted the new cover for me. He got his tank and cover done, plus the entire rear of the new body metal he replaced. Dang thing looks new under there now. He started around 11 and went till 4. We have the new body mounts, so hopefully, we can get the tank back in soon and all new brake components. Kids a monster!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
More surplus store scores today. Got the gm mount for the blazer fuel can in the back plus the pintle mount and cross bar for the back. He put new bolts in the pintle and wiring mount. It is fun finding this stuff since most of them don't look up what they fit and the price is great!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Got the rear painted up nice a few nights ago and applied lizard skin sound control. It really gets the job done and is easy to use. It goes on Grey then dries into almost black. It'll get painted flat black next week. We found his blazer is very loud in the back with no carpet and just metal floors. This will make it not sound like a drum session while driving down the road. We'll add the heat control to the front once that's cleaned up.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Have had some good progress on the 2nd 1009 the last week. Got wheels and a tail gate painted and tires installed. The spare tire mount installed and the tail gate bolted on. Inside looks really nice. The lizard skin noise control in the back and the heat in the front should make this one easy to ride in. We did get the engine running a few days ago as well..took a bunch of happy juice sprayed in the glow plug holes to get it moving good...I really don't think it's run since 97 as that was the inspection sticker on it plus the ip was missing its top. New glows, card and relay. It took a new injection pump from a spare engine and a starter but after getting it bled out it fired right up. I have a video but can't post it here. I can try and link it. Pretty much down to the exterior to get it ready for primer!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
So it's happened, but I still don't get it. Someone stole my sons weight plate off his blazer he drives every day. I bolted that on about 6 months ago. We watched some videos of places he's been and go back a week and can see it's not there, so we have no idea when or where it got taken. So it's onto the interwebs looking for a replacement. Sucks because he works so hard for this. Oh well...move on right!!
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,474
- 10,441
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think it fell off. That would take great effort to get up there and hold the nuts while untightening the bolts. As I recall they came OEM with 5/16" fine thread bolts with a star washer. Not to start controversy but a friend of mine lost a license plate off the front of his truck and assumed someone had stolen it and he had it bolted on with 1/4" bolts. I was cutting firewood on his farm and found the license plate laying in the field. 1 bolt was laying 2 feet from the plate. I reinstalled the license plate on his truck and used nylok nuts and it is still there to this day. Just saying. Happy Holidays.