CUCV Heaven, My build of a 1009 and 1008

[WWRD99]

So the new green machine had this weird morning starting issue where is it start and run for about 5 seconds then shut off. Had to crank it several times before it would finally start and run for most of the day. If it sat for about 5 hours it would repeat again. My first move was to replace the ip return hose with a clear one so I could see what the fuel was doing. Right away we knew we had a leak up top since it was full of air bubbles. Once running for about 10 minutes looking at everything we found the filter base dripping slowly. We swapped it out for another one that I had and it has no air in it now! Nice having extra parts around. I'll pop the sensors out and replace the o rings for the next one.

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[CARC686]

Glad you got that sorted quick fast. I've never regretted swapping for an Oshkosh milsurp spin-on. If you insist on keeping original, I've a filter mount in better shape that I'm never going to use again.

 

[WWRD99]

Glad you got that sorted quick fast. I've never regretted swapping for an Oshkosh milsurp spin-on. If you insist on keeping original, I've a filter mount in better shape that I'm never going to use again.

I get people doing a swap but I got a 5$ box of 100 o rings that repair these. The water sensor leaks. Easy fix. I've got 4 of these trucks. The swap is around 50$...I save 195$ by keeping the box filter. I've collected at least a dozen of the filters from people that don't know how much they cost. Plus the water sensor and heater work in stock configuration. For me it doesn't make sense to swap one. I've got 2 spares that are ready for another day too. Put in perspective of how I do things too is my one 4runner I bought in 2001, it's a 99, still has the original starter, I've rebuilt 2x, alternator I've rebuilt once with 240k on them. I change the oil in my ac every year and still have the original compressor too...40 degrees all day. I'll maintain stock on basic items as much as possible. 35 years in the shop has taught me one huge lesson on parts. They're horrible...new parts fail on install or just a few months later all the time. Heck they can barely build an engine anymore that doesn't explode at under 100k...even toyota has the engine issue now. I won't and don't own a car newer than 2011. I could go on for days!!

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[vanaisa]

Fuel heater is great thing, atleast here. We have cold winters and even with -27C my 1009 starts and idles fine without block heater.

Yes, we have snow conditions here sometimes, when i can not drive close to electric grid.

 

[WWRD99]

Well, he did it again!! One more floor cut out in the morning! He's had the replacement floor for months but wanted to wait until the other 1009 was reliable daily. Gonna panel bond this one in and lizard skin the entire backend for sound deadening. Fun part is he's putting a 2 drawer safe in the back...the heavy top secret style...weighs almost 400 lbs. He's grabbing steel from the scrap bin to make supports just for it. The radios will fit in it to keep them safe...542 and a 442. The green one may end up in the lanes at mecum in Harrisburg the end of july...gotta get this floor back in before then though.

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[WWRD99]

Well I know bleeding brakes isn't anything new and today I replaced the proportion valve for the brakes. It was stuck only giving brakes to the front. I found nos military ones online and got 2 valves, one for each blazer. Replacing the valve was straight forward. I started with the usual gravity bleed and got a good bit moving. I have several tools for bleeding brakes and don't have much trouble doing it but these old gms test me at times. The valve I just put in likes to stop fluid flow to the rear when bleeding them. I got a new tool not long ago, used, that I got to use that worked so good I'll never use anything else on one of these. It's a basic pressure bleeder, at 10 psi, bled the entire system in about 15 minutes. The plate will only fit this style of master cylinder. I used a quart and a half of dot 3 and it cleaned out the system perfectly. Brakes work very good now. I've owned this vacuum bleeder for probably 20 years, and it does work very well for disk brakes but pulls too much for wheel cylinders. I have the self bleeder that works great for those but it relies on pumping the brakes to get the air out which isn't very good for and entire system bleed that has a bunch of air in it. Anyhow, I just thought I'd post up how I did the entire bleed process. If you have the chance to pick up one of these, I'd highly recommend it.

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