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CUCV Radiator recommendation

cucvrus

Well-known member
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The oil lines O rings will stay with the metal oil lines when you remove them. Use patience and penetrating oil along with a 3/4" flare nut line wrench. Work them back and forth. Do NOT force the nut to come loose. Pay attention to the aluminum tube. It may have seized to the steel nut. If you work it slowly and spray it well you can salvage the oil lines. I just removed mine. Look at Easter find M1008 thread. I just removed my radiator from the core support Monday night. I scraped it and ordered a new Spectra B850 from Autozone. Going to look at it in the next hour. I will report back.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Thanks.....think I got the lines safely removed from the radiator......one o-ring on one oil was a little torn so I will need to replace it.

Let me know what your Autozone radiator looks like......seems they've gone to aluminum within plastic.

The oil lines O rings will stay with the metal oil lines when you remove them. Use patience and penetrating oil along with a 3/4" flare nut line wrench. Work them back and forth. Do NOT force the nut to come loose. Pay attention to the aluminum tube. It may have seized to the steel nut. If you work it slowly and spray it well you can salvage the oil lines. I just removed mine. Look at Easter find M1008 thread. I just removed my radiator from the core support Monday night. I scraped it and ordered a new Spectra B850 from Autozone. Going to look at it in the next hour. I will report back.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am back. The Autozone radiator is plastic tanks with aluminum core. I was delighted. That is my preference. It is mush lighter weight and does the same job. We have evolved from the brass and copper. I see NO ill side effects. I have a few trucks I work on that have 300K miles and still have the OEM radiator. I can't say that for any of my CUCV's. They are all new B850's with a lifetime warranty. That even helped out a member that bought a truck from me. I called the Autozone in his area and gave them the date I purchased it and the store I purchased it from and it was warranted. So I am solid on that deal. It cost me $310. Happy Happy. Oh yes it arrived in 100% perfect condition and the box was damage free. As always I advise that you open the box and carefully inspect the radiator before leaving the store. Like I said perfect. And no hand truck to carry it out. Heavy is not always better. And I have had plastic aluminum radiators fixed after they were damaged. they used an epoxy and it held and is still holding on a plow truck that a stick went thru the radiator. All gold here. Good Luck.
 

ken

Active member
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IMG_0371.jpgIMG_0376.jpgIMG_0374.jpgThis it the radiator I installed. It's all aluminum. It has 3 cores but they are twice the size as the original. The tanks are larger also, and it holds a full gallon more coolant than the original. I got it at a local radiator shop here in Houston so I Don't have a part number. I used distilled water and Shell Rotella Diesel coolant to avoid any corrosion worries. I used a Robert Shaw 370-180 thermostat and a 6 blade 20 inch fan. I can tow my tractor now 12,000 lbs with trailer and rarely reach 190deg.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
For what it's worth, heater line size is 3/4" ID, not 5/8" ID....my local O'Reilly's parts guy looked up 5/8" ID incorrectly.
The line that runs to the radiator is 3/4" and the line that runs to the water pump is 5/8" so they do have 2 different size heater hoses. You can see it on the heater core inlet pipes. One is 5/8 and 1 is 3/4". I also suggest changing all the hoses, the by pass hose (5/8) and all 4 water plate gaskets. The 2 on the water cross over manifold and the 2 rear ones near the firewall.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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9,806
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I can tow my tractor now 12,000 lbs with trailer and rarely reach 190deg.

I can tow an 80,000 lb tractor trailer up hill. I can't stop it going down hill. (And have done so) If you have a 12K trailer with tractor I hope your brakes hold out and the trailer brakes are fully operational. I am purely talking a stock CUCV radiator and towing capacity. After that I know nothing about bigger and better. I just get a bigger truck. But winter brings many trucks stranded on the down hill side of the warehouse. Big Bubba Rope.
 

ken

Active member
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The trailer has surge brakes on all four wheels. They work pretty well. It's pretty flat here so no worries about running away.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Which radiator shop in Houston? I'm on the NW side......bottom line rather than spend more to flush the OEM radiator, and still not know exactly what I have, I will spend the money on a new radiator.




View attachment 685016View attachment 685017View attachment 685018This it the radiator I installed. It's all aluminum. It has 3 cores but they are twice the size as the original. The tanks are larger also, and it holds a full gallon more coolant than the original. I got it at a local radiator shop here in Houston so I Don't have a part number. I used distilled water and Shell Rotella Diesel coolant to avoid any corrosion worries. I used a Robert Shaw 370-180 thermostat and a 6 blade 20 inch fan. I can tow my tractor now 12,000 lbs with trailer and rarely reach 190deg.
 

ken

Active member
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Houston Texas
I can't remember the name. It's a small independent shop. It is on Spring-Cypress RD just west of SH249. I will try to get the number for you. I gave $300 for it. They ordered it and had it the next day.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Sweet.....that's not far from me.

And direct fit for cooler lines and all?

I can't remember the name. It's a small independent shop. It is on Spring-Cypress RD just west of SH249. I will try to get the number for you. I gave $300 for it. They ordered it and had it the next day.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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Do you have a radiator repair shop near by? I've used this option repeatedly with good results. It's not a perfect option but repair shops will repair/replace parts and pressure test the repaired radiator.

oops, disregard.:jumpin::jumpin:
 
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ken

Active member
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Houston Texas
Yes It is a direct bolt up. The engine oil cooler and tranny cooler lines fit perfect. They ordered it for a 86 chevy K30 with a 6.2.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Did genesis auto parts go out of business or ?? The link doesn't work anymore, and even the main page of the site doesn't come up. Instead you get a "godaddy" advertising page, and its states "This domain name expired on 8/7/2017 and is pending renewal or deletion."
With that said, anyone know where to get an All Aluminum radiator for decent price?

The only one I have been able to find is on ebay... and I really don't want to buy one off ebay really, as it has no warranty.

So, the only other option I have is to with aluminum core and plastic tanks, which is ok I guess. But even they are $331 at oreilies or autozone.
Also we have been driving a dodge truck which had plastic tanks, and just a few months ago the tank developed a crack right in the middle on the flat part (not near edge, seam, nor orifice) for no reason. There was 3 attempts at repairing it, even a plastic welder with the proper "radiator repair" compound couldn't fix it. Ended up having to replace it.
 
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ken

Active member
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Location
Houston Texas
I have had plastic tank ones not in MV/s do the same to me over the years. They were non repairable. I went with a all aluminum oversized in my 1028 because I tow my tractor with it. The stock one couldn't handle the increased fuel rate and heavy loads. If it ever leaks in the boonies I guess JB WELD would be my only hope. I know a lot of guys don't like brass but at least if it leaks you can fix it yourself with a sodering iron and silver soder.
 
Aluminum can leak from a hard shelled bug impact. If you go with it, put a screen behind the grill. I think copper is better, and it's repairable. Add a exothermic coating and it will cool up to 30 Percent better yet.
 
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