CUCV revving up too high when first started, also sometimes sticks at a high RPM

[thepenguin99]

New to me M1008 issues, getting it back on the road

Recently bought a CUCV that had been used by the local county at auction. It must have sat up a while because they had it marked as non-running and didn't even try to start it. When I got it home it seemed to start reasonably easily for something that had been sitting. That said, when it first starts it revs up way too high and calms down after about a minute. Also, whenever you rev it up it will sometimes stick at the higher rpm. Normally I would think this is a linkage sticking issue but the linkage is returning to the idle position at the pump.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Try unplugging the green wire at the fast idle solenoid, it may be out of adjustment.

 

[dstang97]

Mine does the same. I just let it do its thing until it kicks off

 

[98G]

Air in the lines getting compressed and then pushing additional fuel through?

 

[thepenguin99]

Disconnected the high idle solenoid. Still seems to want to stick at high rpms sometimes though it may be getting better the more I run it. Either that or I am getting used to it.

 

[richingalveston]

run a quart of atf in each tank of diesel for a while. if things are sticking in the ip, it will help

 

[Tinstar]

Recommend two-cycle motor oil instead of ATF.
It's designed to be burned.
ATF isn't and has friction modifiers added in.
Not the best thing for a IP or injectors.

Do a search about Additives.
Plenty of discussion about each and more.


I also run a can of seafoam in it once a month.
Keeps things clean and water out.

 

[doghead]

Diesel fuel additives are a wonderful thing to use to add to your diesel fuel.

They actually are used to maintain the fuel!

 

[thepenguin99]

It may have fixed itself. Seems like it was/is something inside the IP sticking from sitting up. Drove it a bit today and it didn't even offer to rev up higher. Now onto getting one rusted up front lockout working so I have 4wd and maybe fixing the charging system.

When I bought the truck I thought I was going to pull the axles and junk the rest because the body is pretty rough and it was listed non-running. They started or at least turned over 90% of the vehicles at the sale, including ones listed as non-running, but skipped this truck completely. As far the body it has tons of surface rust, cab corners have small holes, front bumper missing, seat/dash trashed, cracked windshield, etc. After driving it a bit now I am less sure about junking it. Motor sounds good, it shifts like it should, mud grip tires that looked good but I assumed would bounce horribly don't seem to bounce at all.

 

[Tinstar]

They are worth saving if it's at all possible.

There are fewer every day.

Unaltered ones are very hard to find now.

 

[thepenguin99]

They are worth saving if it's at all possible.

There are fewer every day.

Unaltered ones are very hard to find now.

This one is salvagable but I think it would be better suited to a custom project rather than trying to put it back 100% original. For now I am just fixing what I can that doesn't cost me much of anything. May let the next owner figure out what to do with it after that.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Is it a truck or blazer?

 

[cucvrus]

They are worth saving if it's at all possible.

There are fewer every day.

Unaltered ones are very hard to find now.

I have several unaltered ones that are decent and buyer are fewer to find every day. If you have nice stuff it is worth the price. I have a few that are 100% stock and just the paint is altered. They still don't sell. So I just use them. Never in a rush tosell them. Someday. Maybe. Till then. I will get money out of them thru fun or labor.

 

[thepenguin99]

Is it a truck or blazer?

M1008 truck. The reason I say its probably better for a project is it doesn't have the CUCV data plates anymore, county painted it white, and it's missing a few other cucv specific things.

 

[Tinstar]

That looks like mainly surface rust.
Very fixable
Body looks straight, hard to tell with just two pics.

Paint is easy.
Bumpers and such are usually on eBay, etc.

Its running.
Your already ahead of the game.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Might I also add that as long as the VIN plate is on the dash by the windshield, it's good to go. I'm 85 miles between E and ESE of Chattanooga, if you find yourself in the area, I have a front bumper for you.

 

[Tinstar]

Agree
If VIN is still on dash you are good.

More pics!!

 

[thepenguin99]

Probably should create a new thread but I am going to try just adding onto this one instead. Today I started attempting to get the charging system working. Checking at the batteries neither battery is being charged. Checking at the output of the driver's side alternator it does seem to putting out 14v and change. The output of the passenger side is 24v so it seems like the driver's side is working but it isn't making it to the battery and the passenger side isn't working at all. When looking at the wiring I noticed the PO had cut the original output wire for the driver's side alt and wired it to the solenoid on the firewall. Looking at http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=278241&d=1321230865 that doesn't seem to be correct. My question is what is this on the diagram: