CUCV run on bio-diesel? CUCV vs Deuce questions..

[codycr6]

I've read quite a bit on guys mixing vegetable oil and regular diesel for the deuce, can you do the same with the CUCV's? Just curious as to how tolerant they are on fuel... back and forth on buying one or the other. Was looking at a M1008 with a lift, winch, and 37-40 inch tires. The looked at the deuce converted to a set of 46 inch Super Singles. Fuel mileage would not be all that different, but if the deuce is the only one that I can mix fuel on that will definetely weight in. Any advice? Also, how does maintenance compare?

 

[acesneights1]

Bio Diesel eats the factory fuel lines. You will need Viton. I would no do it in a cold climate but I have heard of people running veg successfully in a 6.2. It needs to be filtered very very well. Also if there is any crap in the fuel tank you will loosen it up.

 

[acesneights1]

Might want to consider upgrading the Lift Pump from the mech one. A walbro FRB5 works good with veggie. If you have the coin Raptor 100 is even better.

 

[codycr6]

bio-diesel

First I have heard of it eating the fuel lines... is this not an issue with the deuce? Maybe bio-diesel is the wrong term... what I am talking about is basically mixing filtered vegetable oil 50/50 with diesel to cut my fuel costs. I see the deuce guys doing it regularly, but I know it is designed to run on just about anything.

 

[thedeliverator]

First I have heard of it eating the fuel lines... is this not an issue with the deuce? Maybe bio-diesel is the wrong term... what I am talking about is basically mixing filtered vegetable oil 50/50 with diesel to cut my fuel costs. I see the deuce guys doing it regularly, but I know it is designed to run on just about anything.

*sigh* You are correct, this is NOT biodiesel, and it will tend to confuse people. Proper bio-d is vegetable oil that has been treated chemically to remove the glycerin (and some other things). SVO/WVO systems, either straight or in a mix, are a different proposition.

Unheated SVO/WVO is too viscous to be used straight, hence the development of two-tank systems that preheat the veg oil before running it into the engine. There are good systems, that can get the oil over 80 degC, and there are inadequate ones that won't reach a useful temperature.

Mixing SVO/WVO with #1 or #2 diesel is an attempt to lower the viscosity of the fuel enough that supplemental heating is not needed. It works more or less well depending on your ambient temps.

All SVO/WVO systems should include a way of filtering and dewatering the oil.

I myself run on commercial B20 most of the time, and have had minimal trouble. 20+ year old rubber fuel lines needed replacing anyway. Since I have two (soon to be three) diesel vehicles, I would rather make biodiesel than adapt each vehicle to run on SVO.

 

[codycr6]

I live in the south, we usually have some decent temperatures. Maybe primarily diesel during the winter, supplement with used vegetable oil more during the summer? It's more likely to get driven more during the summer, especially a deuce.

 

[wreckerman893]

I have ran 50/50 diesel/veggie in my diesel Ford Ranger (yep...they did make and sell them in the US) with good results.
In cold weather it is a little harder to start but I fixed that by adding one gallon of reg gas per full tank of fuel. (about 12 gallons)
In the duece it didn't matter...it always fired right up and smelled like french fries as it rolled along.
On a long trip warm fuel will come back from the engine via the return line and heat up what is in the tank.....it will run better the warmer it gets.
As stated above it is very important to clean the crispies and water out of the veggie prior to using it as fuel. I pour mine through two layers of blue jean fabric and then set it out in the sun to heat up. I use the plastic "cubies" that the fryer oil comes in for this.
Pump off all but the last four or so inches in the cubie and most of the water will remain in the bottom of the cubie.
Since you are running a CUCV you might consider adding an additional spin on fuel filter with a drain on it just to save those expensive stock filters.
Your milage may vary.

 

[codycr6]

diesel

I don't have a CUCV, I am trying to decide whether I want to buy a CUCV or a deuce. If the deuce would run on this fuel mix and the CUCV would not, that is one point for the deuce.

By the way, I have seen the old Perkins diesel Rangers before... neat little trucks!

 

[Ferroequinologist]

The deuce would be more tolerant to different fuel mixtures than the 6.2.

I have a deuce and a 2004 dodge with the 5.9. I have run 50/50 in each and up to 75/25 in the deuce during the middle of a long trip with zero issues. I let the oil sit for a month, then I have a fillright pump with a suction screen in the intake, and on the discharge a 40mic screen filter, a 15mic cartrige filter, a 5 mic water block filter, and then a 2 mic spin on filter.

Works fine. Drove the deuce to haspin, used the 75/25 on the way there, and did 50/50 used motor oil on the way back.

I've also burned used motor oil in the dodge, but don't go over 25/75 in that truck.

 

[Subjock]

There are Bio/WVO diesel forums out there and I'd suggest doing a whole lot of reading Such as (biodieselSMARTER) &Forums - Powered by Eve Community before pouring waste veggie oil into a tank, filtered through jeans or not. I know folks who ruined expensive engines, not because Bio isn't good, but because they didn't filter and seperate out the water properly. Acesneights1 is right about needing viton rubber fuel lines and pump parts. I ran a Ford 7.3L for over 2 years on B100 no problems, and am upgrading my M1009 with all viton to do the same.

 

[Chief_919]

Whatever you do, if you use waste vegtable oil, make sure it is 100% water free- and this can be difficult.

The stock fuel/water seperator/filter will NOT remove water from the WVO, and in fact the WVO is more likey to draw water into the system.

In the Stanadyne pump this becomes a problem, because the pump is hot, and that coupled with the sudden high compression can mean water turns to steam, leaving a pump that depends upon the fuel for lubrication with nothing for lube. I have seen several pumps run on WVO ruined by this, and while I can't confirm that is the cause, every one was run on WVO that was not properly dewatered.

 

[mangus580]

I have been running commercially made B100 in all my vehicles since about April 1st. Only issue I had was in the first 3 days, because we got a severe cold overnight, and it wasnt treated properly.

I intend to run it all winter too.... We shall see!

 

[12vctd]

I have never run WVO in any 6.2 but I have run B100 made here on the farm for 5 years now, I have not had any problems out of any of my mechanical injected motors, I did replace my rubber lines on my vehicles and equipment due to swellin and I didn't want any problems and to be honest most all the lines on my older trucks needed replacing anyways. I have heard many sucess stories with WVO thou in 6.2's. Like anything its the prep you do to you fuel to ensure its quality that will pay off with less problems. I cut my B100 with kerosene in the coldest of winter months just to help with gellin.

 

[codycr6]

fuel

The deuce would be more tolerant to different fuel mixtures than the 6.2.

I have a deuce and a 2004 dodge with the 5.9. I have run 50/50 in each and up to 75/25 in the deuce during the middle of a long trip with zero issues. I let the oil sit for a month, then I have a fillright pump with a suction screen in the intake, and on the discharge a 40mic screen filter, a 15mic cartrige filter, a 5 mic water block filter, and then a 2 mic spin on filter.

Works fine. Drove the deuce to haspin, used the 75/25 on the way there, and did 50/50 used motor oil on the way back.

I've also burned used motor oil in the dodge, but don't go over 25/75 in that truck.

I would expect the older mechanically injected deuce and the M1008 to both be more tolerant of these fuels than your Dodge, as it has EFI and the feedback of oxygen sensors and such. I am curious as to how the M1008 would tolerate the fuel you are making...

Can you give me an idea of what your setup cost? When you say "oil", are you talking about used motor oil or used cooking oil? Any pictures of your pump/filter setup? I had in mind that if I could work out a deal with a local restaurant or oil change place, I would leave a 55 gallon drum there, put one on my trailer, and once a week or so visit and pump the oil from the drum that is there into the one on my trailer with my pump/filter, and then run it through the pump/filter again before it goes in the vehicle. How often do you have to replace your filter elements? Sorry about all the questions... just trying to gather as much information as I can.

 

[12vctd]

theres no oxygen sensor on a 2004 5.9 cummins diesel, the motor is just a common rail using a CP3 belt driven fuel pump, the injection system is computer controlled. A diesel engine will run on used motor oil, transmission oil, straight vegtable oil(heated) bio diesel, diesel fuel and the list goes on and on. The problems with diff fuels are lube, BTU's of the fuel, corosion and coking of injectors. On straight WVO I have heard more stories of coking on injectors. No matter what fuel you use you would want to ensure the fuel is filtered very well, you can purchase filter socks for waste veggy oil, on my bio diesel processor I use filters in the system of 1 micron both socks(which are cleanable) and canisters. The smallest particles can cause very large problems in a diesel injection system even the mutifuel duece. Second water is a issue, but you can settle much of this out. I really would suggest you do a little research on sites such as greasecar.com www.vegvw.com, and others. Theres a ton of info there and it should really help with the ?'s. But as far a a 6.2 detroit with a stadyne injection pump having problems with WVO or bio diesel there should not be any issues with the exception of rubber lines swelling. and the M35 will also have the same issues. A great write up I jst thought of is http://www.fryoil.org/ , they converted a 6.2 diesel to WVO and disscuss maint, and other areas. REmeber that WVO will have to be heated to 175 deg's and that requires a 2 tank setup that will allow you to start motor on diesel(or bio diesel) and then use the vehicles cooling system to preheat the oil then switch to the wvo and run the truck then before shut off purge the system back on diesel(or your injection pump will have a mess in it, just like grease in a pan after it cools). This is why I went with straight Bio diesel, alittle more work but well worth the results, I make mine at the cost of .60 cents a gallon. and run it in every diesel motor i have.

 

[stampy]

I have successfully run WVO in my 300sd Benz, M1009 and Deuce. I heat the oil to drop out water and drain it off the bottom then I centrifuge it to remove the heavies they say it filters down to .05 microns. I have exceptional success with this and have run for well over 3 years. My stocks of filtered WVO did not gel last winter, but I do try to cut it 80/20 with diesel in the winter. So far no problems with fuel lines as WVO is not corrosive unless made into biodiesel that is unwashed( have made bio also) This is by FAR the easiest way I have found to make reliable and cheap fuel with little hassle. The Centrifuge is brand name (Simple Centrifuge) but I think Avengeusa is still making centrifuges. After centrifuge the oil gravity feeds into a 500 gal tank that has a fuel type pump and filter setup on it. As others have said the single biggest problem with WVO or Biodiesel is it will TOTALLY clean your fuel tank and EVERYTHING WILL END UP IN YOUR FILTER. So dont freak out when you plug 2 filters almost back to back. Oh, might as well plumb your CUCV for a spin on filter before you change your fuel stock. Those square ones are hell to deal with. PM me if you want a better description of my setup.

 

[12vctd]

Stampy mentioned a perfect point, both WVO and bio are excelent cleaners, also they lube the injection system alot better, 7.3 powerstrokes are quieter while running, I personaly have recorded better MPG but alot have recorded less. The heat and settle for watter drain is the best way I also wash my bio fuel. Bio fuels are a awsome resource my only problem with any of them is its becoming harder and harder in my area to source WVO. I have actually started to co-op some of my land with other farmers to grow our own sources.

 

[Subjock]

Forgot to include the following from E-bay, this is a fairly complete guide to WVO conversion and operation. And they sell stuff! And no, I don't get a percentage of sales... eBay Guides - Veg, WVO, SVO, UCO, Waste Oil Conversion, Heated Filter

 

[codycr6]

M1008

So I looked at a M1008 today... still curious about just adding filtered used motor oil in certain amounts to cut fuel costs. If I could work out a deal with a local oil change place, as well as the oil I change myself, what would be involved in filtering the oil, and what mixture could I use? The truck is about four hours away, but I may be halfway there again in the next two weeks and able to take my wife to look at it as well... I will post some pictures of it in a separate thread and get some opinions on whether others think the price is reasonable. It has 91,000 miles, very straight and seems well maintained, no rust (from Tennessee), and has a set of factory Chevrolet Alcoa aluminum wheels added to it with 315/75/16 Toyo Mud Terrains on it. Asking $3750 out the door...

 

[12vctd]

clean used motor oil is fine to run thru the engine, just remember with motor oil theres a risk of water contamination, gas, and it could have tranny fluid. If you want to run used motor oil I wouldnt suggest more than a 50/50 blend and I would set up at a min a good filter sock atleast 10 microns or better and filter the oil as you pour into a barrel, then let the settle atleast 48 hours and pump off the top thru a spin on filter system, again look for atleast 1 micron. then simply mix your desired blend and run it, I do know use motor oil produces more smoke from exhaust even at idle. I would suggest filtering to atleast 3 microns. I would also suggest a good spin on canister filter to be added so you can do regualar filter changes and get a better filtering system. I have run my own personal motor oil tru some of my older tractors on the farm at a 50/50 blend last year when fuel prices where so high and they ran fine.