CUCV Snow Plow Trucks and Spreaders

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF5782.jpgVolt meter problem solved. The stock volt meter would peg out every time I turned the key on. The VDO volt meter does the job and the M1009 is back starting and charging as designed. Now I need to get the cluster back in the dash and get all the cluster lights working. I have removed most of the hacked wiring. I have a couple more hours to get it completed. I will report more later. Merry Christmas.
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
OK back up a moment here. I did get the truck to start but it is putting power to the glow plugs all the time. I left it run over 2 minutes and it has power going to them. I disconnected the top 24 volt from the resistors and looked for other issues. It has the old style temperature sensor on the left rear head. The wire appear to be good. The glow plug relay that I installed does not clunk in. The old relay that was with the truck laying inside clunks in if the little pink wire is on top and the blue wire on bottom. I always did mine opposite. I did notice it is grounding the glow plug relay. I seen light sparks as I was wiggling and tightening and loosing things. Is that supposed to be the way it is? The GM relays had rubber isolators to prevent the relay from grounding. I am lost at this point. I have all the dash lights working again except the hi temp. I will work on that a bit.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Did you read the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual of how to test the wiring and switchs for the GP controller? It is chapter 2-15 of the electrical troubleshooting section.

Where do I find this. I have been looking at all the TM's
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF5773.jpgFinal update of the day. Electrical is my weakest link. Especially fixing hacked wiring. I done great with the generators and the cluster. I am taking a beating on the GP system. If I have the pink wire on the top little stud of the relay the glow plugs glow and never shut off. If I have the blue wire on the top little stud of the relay the relay will not engage at all. I changed the glow plug relay harness to no avail. I changed the relay from my decade rebuild and switched the glow card that was in the truck to the M1028 I am driving and the relay clunked and cycled. I have the new BMI card in now and it appears to be working. It was set at flash wait and I never changed it. That should be fine. I ended the day because I have Family stopping over. But I want to get back into this after Christmas. Not sure what I am missing here. I copied off 2 running trucks. When I engage the key both small studs get hot on the no start unit. On my decade unit only the pink small bottom stud gets hot. Does that give any clues? Does that fast idle wire have anything to do with it? Merry Christmas and thank you for all the help. I had a CUCV electric book and left someone borrow it. Gone. I am the worst when it comes to electrical diagnosis. But I never give up.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Is the M1010 Glow Plug circuit different from the rest of the CUCV's? I found an M1010 wiring diagram. Not sure why both my light blue and pink go positive when the key is turned on. No engagement of relay unless I switch the 2 wires then no disengagement of relay. I am lost. Maybe another day. Merry Christmas.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
sound proofing.jpgObi-Wan Kenobi of glow plug circuitry. Where are you? I need your help after Christmas. I tried everything. I tapped my heels together 3 times. Read every post I could find and still have not come up with a solution. I think I am getting a ground somewhere and it is causing a problem or lack of a ground. Merry Christmas Chesty where ever you are. Right now I am in the desert on a horse with no name. Please read the previous posts on this thread regarding the glow plug issue. Merry Christmas. rs_500x326-141217151556-TheGrinchCartoonhappy grinch.gif

 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
indexAll hooked up and ready to go..jpgThank you Obi- Wan. I ordered 2 of the relays and 2 of the rubber boot kits. I hope the boots are for the 5/16" studs which I think they are. I need to get some of them for my alternator studs also. I don't get out much. Probably a thing that you can get anywhere. and here I am salvaging them from YOUPULLITS. Merry Christmas. And Thank You again. I need this Red Devil M1009 out of my drive way. Back to more relaxing work on lawn mowers and snow blowers. I am lost in the electrical jungle. My Achilles heel. I know enough to get by and change defective parts 95% of the time. Once hacked hard to get back. Merry Christmas.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF5809.jpgDSCF5810.jpgDSCF5811.jpgDSCF5812.jpgI did manage to get the cluster back together and everything operational again. the new voltmeter works well and the charging system is working again. The glow plug system is all wired stock and the truck starts after the wait goes off. All is well with that part of the job. DSCF5815.jpgDSCF5816.jpgDSCF5813.jpgDSCF5814.jpgNow onto the rear brakes. The left rear axle brake tube is leaking. I thought that would be a quick fix. Not so. Mr Rust has crept up and imbedded the line and bolts. Nothing a torch can't fix. 30 seconds and it was off. DSCF5817.jpgNow a quick trip to town for some parts, bolts and fluid. DSCF5818.jpgDSCF5819.jpgTomorrow is another day. I must get this job completed. the owner is coming for it Monday. Happy New Year.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF5820.jpgDSCF5822.jpgI installed new left and right rear wheel brake cylinders. DSCF5823.jpgDSCF5821.jpgI bent new 3/16" brake piping for the rear axle brake plumbing. Just good old galvanized. Nothing fancy. The old galvanized lasted over 30 years. DSCF5826.jpgThe brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir looked great. Nice clear and clean. Most I see are contaminated with Dot 3 and other goop. DSCF5827.jpgWhile I waited for a helper to pump/bleed the brakes I cut up some wood that I had laying around. Still prepping for winter snow. My Mighty Vac is not getting good suction. I think a few of the fittings are worn or the tool is worn out. I doubt I will replace it. I myself am getting worn.

DSCF5824.jpgDSCF5825.jpgDSCF5817.jpgMay I recommend if you never changed the rear wheel cylinders on your CUCV they are past due. And mileage is not going to matter. The rubbers are worn out/cracked/torn and the wheel cylinders are long past the intended life use. The new pair of wheel cylinders with the tubing and 1pint of DOT5 brake fluid was about $50. The replacement wheel cylinders were made in Mexico. Matters not. They worked. After words I took the Red Devil M1009 for a ride and it had nice shift points, ran well and had good brakes. The owner is coming to pick it up today. Happy New Year.
 

SDJunkMan

Member
33
11
8
Location
Rapid City/SD
I am getting ready to wire up the plow on my M1009, and am wondering where to pull the power for the pump from. As far as I can tell my truck still has the original 24 volt system on it.
 

SDJunkMan

Member
33
11
8
Location
Rapid City/SD
Pull it from the front battery positive post. All is well. It will plow all night and day under full power. I am down to 2 CUCV plow trucks from 5.
I thought that would be the place to hook it up, most of the threads I looked at pulled 12 volts off the battery, but I didn't know if that would work for a plow. Will try to finish it up tomorrow.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Rick, is that the cause of global warming?
No that is the results of hard thrashings and corrosion. 1 died a terrible death when a knit wit ran off the road and broke everything underneath. Axles, transmission, transfer case, frame. Scrap. The other 2 rusted beyond repair. Axles, frame, body. They have all been recycled to prevent global warming.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
9,245
2,787
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
The CUCV M1028 salt spreader truck is down and out. I have no power to the top fuse in the fuse box. The circuit does not appear melted. I also have no Gen 1 light when key is on. My driver was plowing he said the light came on Gen 1 flashed a few times and the blower stopped working. I checked a few other threads with the same symptoms no results to help resolve this one. Short of another trip to the electrical shop I guess I am down and out. We have a major weather event scheduled for the weekend. Any ideas? It will not stay running all day and night with no power. I hope to recycle it soon. This is becoming a regular thorn in my side.
 

ehuppert

Active member
204
36
28
Location
Upstate NY
The CUCV M1028 salt spreader truck is down and out. I have no power to the top fuse in the fuse box. The circuit does not appear melted. I also have no Gen 1 light when key is on. My driver was plowing he said the light came on Gen 1 flashed a few times and the blower stopped working. I checked a few other threads with the same symptoms no results to help resolve this one. Short of another trip to the electrical shop I guess I am down and out. We have a major weather event scheduled for the weekend. Any ideas? It will not stay running all day and night with no power. I hope to recycle it soon. This is becoming a regular thorn in my side.
Fusible link? Ignition switch?

Fact that blower stopped working is probably part of the clue? No charge wouldn't cause heater no spin!! Gen 1 and blower motor are somehow on the same circuit.... Looking at wiring diagrams top fuse is heater, believe that power comes from ignition switch. On my truck (1008 sbc with regular GM alt) Ive always had a gen light faint glow only detectable at night with heater on high. Been like that for probably ten years, but still charges...

this link has some of the diagrams in color. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75505-CUCV-Wiring-Diagram-color-(except-M1010) don't think there's a heater circuit one, so the 34 will have it!
I've become a little more intimate with wiring in these, in the midst of putting this cab back together! Won't be much help in this storm a brewing!!

Have fun in the snow!
 

Merddin

Member
91
-1
6
Location
Cape Girardeau, MO
The CUCV M1028 salt spreader truck is down and out. I have no power to the top fuse in the fuse box. The circuit does not appear melted. I also have no Gen 1 light when key is on. My driver was plowing he said the light came on Gen 1 flashed a few times and the blower stopped working. I checked a few other threads with the same symptoms no results to help resolve this one. Short of another trip to the electrical shop I guess I am down and out. We have a major weather event scheduled for the weekend. Any ideas? It will not stay running all day and night with no power. I hope to recycle it soon. This is becoming a regular thorn in my side.
1. Clean or replace blower motor switch in dash. Mine was really dirty and it made my blower shut off and kick on gen 1 light. As i recall, the blower motor is on the gen 1 circuit, for some odd reason. Might help or not
2. Where did you get the nice voltmeter you installed? I replaced the resistor in my original, and it works, but needle gets stuck. I have to tap the gauge every time I start truck to get it to go.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks