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Volt meter problem solved. The stock volt meter would peg out every time I turned the key on. The VDO volt meter does the job and the M1009 is back starting and charging as designed. Now I need to get the cluster back in the dash and get all the cluster lights working. I have removed most of the hacked wiring. I have a couple more hours to get it completed. I will report more later. Merry Christmas.
Final update of the day. Electrical is my weakest link. Especially fixing hacked wiring. I done great with the generators and the cluster. I am taking a beating on the GP system. If I have the pink wire on the top little stud of the relay the glow plugs glow and never shut off. If I have the blue wire on the top little stud of the relay the relay will not engage at all. I changed the glow plug relay harness to no avail. I changed the relay from my decade rebuild and switched the glow card that was in the truck to the M1028 I am driving and the relay clunked and cycled. I have the new BMI card in now and it appears to be working. It was set at flash wait and I never changed it. That should be fine. I ended the day because I have Family stopping over. But I want to get back into this after Christmas. Not sure what I am missing here. I copied off 2 running trucks. When I engage the key both small studs get hot on the no start unit. On my decade unit only the pink small bottom stud gets hot. Does that give any clues? Does that fast idle wire have anything to do with it? Merry Christmas and thank you for all the help. I had a CUCV electric book and left someone borrow it. Gone. I am the worst when it comes to electrical diagnosis. But I never give up.
Obi-Wan Kenobi of glow plug circuitry. Where are you? I need your help after Christmas. I tried everything. I tapped my heels together 3 times. Read every post I could find and still have not come up with a solution. I think I am getting a ground somewhere and it is causing a problem or lack of a ground. Merry Christmas Chesty where ever you are. Right now I am in the desert on a horse with no name. Please read the previous posts on this thread regarding the glow plug issue. Merry Christmas. 
Thank you Obi- Wan. I ordered 2 of the relays and 2 of the rubber boot kits. I hope the boots are for the 5/16" studs which I think they are. I need to get some of them for my alternator studs also. I don't get out much. Probably a thing that you can get anywhere. and here I am salvaging them from YOUPULLITS. Merry Christmas. And Thank You again. I need this Red Devil M1009 out of my drive way. Back to more relaxing work on lawn mowers and snow blowers. I am lost in the electrical jungle. My Achilles heel. I know enough to get by and change defective parts 95% of the time. Once hacked hard to get back. Merry Christmas.
I did manage to get the cluster back together and everything operational again. the new voltmeter works well and the charging system is working again. The glow plug system is all wired stock and the truck starts after the wait goes off. All is well with that part of the job. 
Now onto the rear brakes. The left rear axle brake tube is leaking. I thought that would be a quick fix. Not so. Mr Rust has crept up and imbedded the line and bolts. Nothing a torch can't fix. 30 seconds and it was off. 
Now a quick trip to town for some parts, bolts and fluid. 
Tomorrow is another day. I must get this job completed. the owner is coming for it Monday. Happy New Year.
I installed new left and right rear wheel brake cylinders. 
I bent new 3/16" brake piping for the rear axle brake plumbing. Just good old galvanized. Nothing fancy. The old galvanized lasted over 30 years. 
The brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir looked great. Nice clear and clean. Most I see are contaminated with Dot 3 and other goop. 
While I waited for a helper to pump/bleed the brakes I cut up some wood that I had laying around. Still prepping for winter snow. My Mighty Vac is not getting good suction. I think a few of the fittings are worn or the tool is worn out. I doubt I will replace it. I myself am getting worn. 
May I recommend if you never changed the rear wheel cylinders on your CUCV they are past due. And mileage is not going to matter. The rubbers are worn out/cracked/torn and the wheel cylinders are long past the intended life use. The new pair of wheel cylinders with the tubing and 1pint of DOT5 brake fluid was about $50. The replacement wheel cylinders were made in Mexico. Matters not. They worked. After words I took the Red Devil M1009 for a ride and it had nice shift points, ran well and had good brakes. The owner is coming to pick it up today. Happy New Year.
Rick, is that the cause of global warming?
I thought that would be the place to hook it up, most of the threads I looked at pulled 12 volts off the battery, but I didn't know if that would work for a plow. Will try to finish it up tomorrow.
No that is the results of hard thrashings and corrosion. 1 died a terrible death when a knit wit ran off the road and broke everything underneath. Axles, transmission, transfer case, frame. Scrap. The other 2 rusted beyond repair. Axles, frame, body. They have all been recycled to prevent global warming.
Fusible link? Ignition switch?
1. Clean or replace blower motor switch in dash. Mine was really dirty and it made my blower shut off and kick on gen 1 light. As i recall, the blower motor is on the gen 1 circuit, for some odd reason. Might help or not
