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Cucv upgrades.

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Spin on fuel filter, oil pressure gauge, tachometer, and straight piped exhaust. Resistor bypass, power ports in cab, And lots of off road lights. Stereo with plenty of speakers

One I have not done are engine, trans, and exhaust temp gauges. Then turn up the injection pump.

Great thread thanks
 
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Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Overdrive transmission, preferably a 4L80E using aftermarket controller. In the future..yes to the lockup torque converter and 25% OD.

Air conditioning has been my favorite. My SECM needed a rear view camera, that has saved my bumper. Civy hitch.

I'm still rocking the original fuel filter, this is a two stage with water indicator. Nothing wrong with the design, in fact it is better than a single stage spin on.
 

jpg

Member
611
15
18
Location
Boston, MA
Crane Axle urethane King Pin Spring Eliminators.
Upgrade gauge of heavy-current wires like those carrying alternator current, and the big grounds.
33" tires (require no lift)
Banks Sidewinder
LED lights
Winch
Serious rust treatment/prevention.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
001.jpgWhat about Horse head relay? I laughed when I seen this is a box of CUCV parts I bought from a guy that sold his M1028. He had a lot of NOS stuff and this was the funniest part I seen. The horse head relay 1st Cav. Most of the parts he had were door parts and some brackets for alternators and starters. Since I use these relays I will add it as a spare in my parts. It is an original GM one and still works I plugged it in and tried it. Great find. It did give my Son and I a great big laugh.
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
41
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
  • H4 headlights
  • Headlight harness
  • Sound deadening (inside, underhood)
  • Bigger fuel tank
  • LED lighting on everything but the headlights (exterior, blackout drive light, dash-board)
  • Tint
  • AM/FM radio-stereo with an aux jack.
  • Group 31 batteries
  • Higher output alternators (>150Amp, better for fast charge on short errands)
  • Spin-on fuel filter
  • AC60G, with 24-to-12V regulator replacing ballast resistor
  • Manual glow override switch as a backup (with a working glow controller as a primary)
  • Better horn (I mean come on... :beer:)
 
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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
LED lighting on everything but the headlights (exterior, blackout drive light, dash-board)
I got to ask. Why not LED head lamps? Am I seeing so much better at night with them that I am missing something? I had to ask why?
 

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
tim292stro do you have a write up on 24-to 12v regulator set-up.which replaces the ballast resistor reducing volts to GP solenoid?With picts.
 
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Cantos

New member
75
2
0
Location
Germany
- H4 Headlights
- Hella 2x 2tone horn
- transmissionoilcooler
- dh mod
- manual golwing
- cb-radio with military antenna
- flowmaster super 44
- watertemperature gauge
- tinted windows side and tailgate
And many ideas......
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
41
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
tim292stro do you have a write up on 24-to 12v regulator set-up.which replaces the ballast resistor reducing volts to GP solenoid?With picts.
I will be doing this to the new M1009 when I'm past some other issues - it'll be in my thread for that truck but I'll link it back here.

Material cost is about $260, so it's not a "cheap" change - but most of my projects can be priced around $250 each, which makes it easier to do installments :beer:
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
41
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
You have to go to a different case (like 28SI), or have them re-wound. For the M1009 I'm talking to a vendor who is custom winding me a pair of 250Amp isolated ground 28SI alternators - I never expect to run >200Amps ever (VERY hard on a single belt), but the extra design headroom means I won't be stressing the components as hard. Really the rectifiers are the part I worry about the most in an alternator - getting an alternator that can do 25% more than my expected peak load means it'll never be in danger of burning up (and it'll be fused for 225A). 2cents

For my XM1027 build, I'm using a MRAP 450A 28.8v alternator.
 
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