Cucvlover's m1008 the green machine.

[CUCVLOVER]

Rear diff oil change

I finally got around to changing the oil in the rear differential and checking out the chunk. I got the truck in my dad's shop on concrete and started working. I had my new gasket, my oil, permetex and tools. I cleaned up around the cover before I started pulling the bolts. I tool the bottom bolts out and started my way up and that drained the oil. Once I had most of the oil out I took the cover off and started cleaning out the housing.
Then I cleaned up the cover. I used a knife to scrap the housing and a side grinder and a worn out flap disk to clean the old gasket and such off the cover.
Then I started putting it all back together. I put permetex on the cover, then stuck the bolts through it, then the gasket, then I put permetex on that, then bolted the cover on.
Then I started to fill the oil and had a issue. The oil fill plug was broken off. So I ended up loosening up some of the cover bolts and stuck my plastic funnel in the top and started tightening bolts and pouring in the oil. I filled the oil and all was good.

Thank you all.

 

[jpg]

I had a '99 C3500 where the diff plugs were rusted solid. I was afraid to remove them, because even if I did manage to get them out, I feared it would do enough damage in the process that I wouldn't get them to seal well again. Looking at them, I imagined the heads would shear off before the bolts would turn. Perhaps the hot torch/cold water treatment would have worked, but brake lines and fuel tanks were close enough to make me reluctant.

So I parked it on a side slope so one wheel was higher than the diff. I opened up the uphill hub, and poured the right amount of diff lube down the axle. I changed the wheel bearings while I was in there. Worked great for me.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Thanks for the tip. I figured next time I pull the cover a aftermarket machined cover with a fill and drain will go on.

 

[jpg]

Thanks for the tip. I figured next time I pull the cover a aftermarket machined cover with a fill and drain will go on.

That would work. You've inspired me to go check my plugs for corrosion, and make sure they're well protected for the winter. I'm trying to keep this truck from rusting, to the extent possible.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Fuel problems.

All right everyone this post is going to go along with a few more.

My truck had been running great for no problems for awhile but my good luck ran out. My truck is usually parked nose down, well one day it sat all day nose up at a decent tilt. Well I hopped in and it fired right up, I put it in reverse and it went dead. So when it did I just popped it into neutral and rolled down the hill to the flat ground and it cranked over for a little bit then started up and off I went. So the next day it did it again, this time the batts died before I got it going. So I pulled it across the street into my dad's shop lot and charged up the batts and in the lot it was level and it started right up after a little cranking.
So I thought maybe my fuel pick up tube was rotted off since it only started when level. So I got a new sending unit from Canada and installed it. The old hoses had to be cut off the steel lines to remove them so it was time to change them anyway. I am so glad I have a flatbed or this job would have sucked.
The old sock was kind of dirty but not completely stopped up. I looked in the tank best I could and it didn't look bad. It did bother me when I pulled the old unit and the pick up was intact but I figured it was stopped up just enough for it to sometimes clog the flow of fuel.
Also I did pick up on power since the fuel flow was better and My gauge works better now.
Thank you all for looking

 

[CUCVLOVER]

That would work. You've inspired me to go check my plugs for corrosion, and make sure they're well protected for the winter. I'm trying to keep this truck from rusting, to the extent possible.

Thank you that what this thread is for more or less.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

More truck problems.

Alrighty its time for another post about my adventures with the truck.

As I said I had fuel issues well after that part swap they came back.
The truck did the same thing again. I charged the batts and got it to wind over ok but it still would not start. So I pulled what I thought at the time was the fuel in line to the pump (it was actually the injection return line) and I could not get fuel so I changed the lift pump thinking it was bad, but it was weeping fuel from the weep hole. Which was a major ordeal it took close to 8 hrs to change it. 5 with just me then another 3 when my dad got home to help me. Luckily I was kind of away from the house and no one was home which is a good thing seeing as it was about 80F out side and the Skeeter's tried to carry me off so I was just a real pleasant person and I said lots of things that I can't say here.
I can say that when I was working on it, if the guy that decided to put the lift pump in the worse place ever walked up it would not be good.
The push rid was not that bad it was that stupid two plate mounting system. Then I primed the system with a primper bulb on the line coming out of the tank. Then i hit the key and i get a new problem. The engine barley turned over then nothing even with hot batts, I could hit the key and the starter would not turn. I checked and had power going to it so I figured that the cranking, and the age finally killed it so I ordered a new made in USA gear reduction starter from Hillbilly Wizard for about $230.00 ish and also a new fuel filter. So I start installing the new starter I yanked the old one out pretty easy but getting the new one in was not easy by myself. I finally had to admit defeat and call in soldier B my dad. He helped hold the starter and get the bolts in. I did have to work on the selonoid wire. It had to be longer to fit I'm not sure why but it did. Then after I get it bolted in the first time and everything hooked up I try to start it. I had a bad ball of smoke and sparked from under the truck. The selonoid wire got mashed and broken causing it to short out on the block. So pulled the starter again and fixed that and then it would wind over great. I love my GR starter.
So after I changed the filter and primed it the beast bellowed a large cloud of smoke and came to life.
But the victory was short lived. I will tell that story soon.

Thank you all.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Ok everyone its time for me to tell some more about my truck.

After the work from the previous post I thought all was good but it was not.

I headed out to the truck pull and my truck didn't make if but about 15 miles before it started losing power, blowing smoke, and stumbling. So I stopped to check everything out and I found the issue. I had put a primper bulb in the line coming from the tank. It was sucked completely flat. So that told me that the intank filter sock was plugged up.
So I put the truck on the trailer that was pulled by the recovery vehicle.
I got the truck home and unloaded it and went to supper. My grandma and mom where in the recovery vehicle and my dad was riding with me. They figured out really quick to just leave me alone and don't talk to me for a while. I was beyond the point of being angry, I found the place I get where I get so mad I can not speak. Which is a good thing that I wasn't talking because I would have said many unpleasant things.
But after a good meal and sleeping overnight I had calmed down to where I could have a conversation with someone and look at the truck. So anyway it's time to start talking about how I fixed it.

I pulled line coming from the tank and blowed compressed air back into the tank until I head bubbles. I hooked everything back up and the truck fired right up.

So I decided to order a new fuel tank. I got it from Napa it is a welded steel tank, instead of a plastic piece of junk like most places sell.

So my new tank came in and I started prepping the tank. It had a coating of oil on it to keep it from rusting. I wiped it down with lots of paint thinner and cleaned it up. Then I sprayed it with about 3 coats of rustolum rubberized undercoating.

This will keep it from rusting, help protect it and make it look better. Then came the job of swapping out the tank.
I unhooked the fuel lines and wires, then I put a small lift under the tank and took out the bolts that hold the straps to the frame. Then I started taking the straps off the tank. I had been using lots of wd40 and PB blaster but I still had one strap fight me. The nut that lightens the strap on one of the straps would not come off. So I drained all the fuel from the tank, which had lots of junk in it. Then dad heated up the one nut until it was red and I was able to take it off. Then we ran a thread die on each of the strap studs to clean them up.
Then I cleaned all the rust off the straps and the where they bolt to the frame and sprayed them with rubberized undercoating.
I also cleaned up and painted the skid plate for the tank
Once everything dried I started to re assemble it. I had to put the straps around the tank then use a rachet strap to to get the studs in the holes then tightened them with a impact gun.

I also put rubber around the tank where the straps go. I used strip door material.
Once I had it it put together I got the tank under the truck then started hooking everything back up. The new tank was a great fit and I have had no problems with it.

I did have a problem with my filter sock. The one that came with the unit was trashed so I needed a new one. I looked around and I came up empty all I could get was one for a gas tank with a intank pump. So I got that and cut it apart and used just the outer screen and a hose clamp to keep it on the shaft.
The truck did run a lot better now but not perfect.


Thanks everyone.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Alrighty its time for another post.


So I was still having issues with the truck.
At about 2700 rpm in high gear it would start popping, stumbling and making a racket. So I finally found out that filter base can leak. (I should have searched sooner.) The truck would lose prime in a matter of hrs. I was trying to get the truck started one day and I had fuel at the filter and I could get a little drip at a injector line. So I ended up pouring about 16 oz of fuel down the intake. It smoked like a tire plant on fire but the truck started and didn't try to run away.
So finally I heard about the filter bases leaking. So I bought a small clear inline filter for and put that one inplace of the stock unit. All my troubles when away.
So I started getting the parts together for a spin on fuel filter. I got a wixs filter head and filter. The head has 2 in's and 2out's, and the filter has a water separator with a drain in the bottom. I had to make my own bracket to mount the filter because with the stock bracket the filter hit the engine. So a quick fab job and I was good to go. I just welded two pieces of 2 in angle together for a nice clean mount.

Then I plugged one IN hole and used the other, the I put a small valve on one of the outs to drain the air.
To reprime the system I used a primper bulb I put in the fuel line where it leaves the tank. All I had to do was open the air bleeder valve and squeeze the bulb until fuel ran out.
That way I didn't have to work my starter to hard
I will post the part number for the filter head if I can find it.

This filter has solved all my issues and now my truck runs so much better. The truck runs as good if not better than it probably did when it was new.

Also I thank all the people if this site that helped me.

Thanks everyone.
Please stay tuned to this thread as I have many more things to tell.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Another post time.

I finally had the truck running good so I decided to take it the truck pull again.
I talked the people and they said I could pull. We gave the announcer a quick back story of me and the truck. There was another guy there with an old dodge regular cab, flatbed, 4x4, and cummins diesel. He talked about this truck for probably an hr. He talked all about how they pull all kinds of Trailers and stuck equipment, how it had 800 plus ftlbs of torque and ect. He pulled then I pulled, the sled was 45,000lbs and the track was set right, from my utv pulling I can spot a good track.
I pulled 216 ft before I spun the tires over. That was in low range 4x4 and held back in 1st on the trans.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NyAW-q7vsLQ
He pulled 220 ish. He was right there becide his truck flapping them gums before the pull after the announcer said a little then I pulled this guy was no where to be found.
I guess he didn't like it that a stock 6.2 NA diesel with 165 hp and less than 300 ftlbs of torque just about beat him.


I drove the truck to the pull and back with not problems and the next day I gave the truck a good inspection and all was good

Thanks for looking

 

[nyvram]

I love stories like this! It's always the ones with the biggest mouth who end up with the most crow in it.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Thanks buddy.
If you like that did you read my earlier post about hooking back to back with other trucks?

 

[nyvram]

Double post

 

[nyvram]

No missed that. I will go back through the thread. Loved the YouTube clip.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

No missed that. I will go back through the thread. Loved the YouTube clip.

Ok.
I am glad you liked it.
You might want to read the whole thing and stay tuned for more updates as I am always doing something to it.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Lift shackles

Hello all its time for another installment.

The truck did not have any shackles on it when I got it. The front mounts where still in the truck but the rear mounts where removed when the flat bed was installed.
So I had looked on eBay and take off shackels or nos ones where expensive for what I could get. So my dad does a lot of business with G&H industrial supply in Jackson. So he carries big shackles and other stuff. I found some shackles he had that where screw type, made in America, and 8.5 ton rated. The cost about $75.00 a piece. At the time eBay shackles cost much more.
So I pulled the tubes off the truck to drill out the holes a little because the pins didn't fit. I got the holes drilled out then I painted the tubes black, after I cleaned them up a little.
I used all new washers and lock nuts. I would have replaced the bolts but I didn't have any. I didn't. Weld the pins but I did tighten them extremely tight with a large cresent wrench.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

I finally got around to mounting my CB radio in the truck. I just bolted the radio to the lid on the ammo can. The antenna is on top of the tool box, I have not talked to anyone yet. My handle is Rebel if anyone wants it.
The radio is just a 40 channel radio shack unit that my granddad had in one of his vehicles.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

well while back I finally got time to change the glow plugs.
I want to napa and got Acdelco 60G plugs and new connectors. I was worried that the plugs would be stuck and that some would be burnt or broken. When I started removing the plugs the front plug on the drivers side was a little stuck but nothing to worry about.
I pulled all the plugs and they where all ac delco 13 G plugs.
I cut off all the old connectors which where definitely worn out and replaced them with the correct ones for the 60G plugs.
The truck starts better than ever, and now I know what's in the block.
Also the plugs I removed I put in the new plug boxes and stuck them in the glove box just in case I need them
I used to have pics but they are gone.

 

[gottaluvit]

well while back I finally got time to change the glow plugs.
I want to napa and got Acdelco 60G plugs and new connectors. I was worried that the plugs would be stuck and that some would be burnt or broken. When I started removing the plugs the front plug on the drivers side was a little stuck but nothing to worry about.
I pulled all the plugs and they where all ac delco 13 G plugs.
I cut off all the old connectors which where definitely worn out and replaced them with the correct ones for the 60G plugs.
The truck starts better than ever, and now I know what's in the block.
Also the plugs I removed I put in the new plug boxes and stuck them in the glove box just in case I need them
I used to have pics but they are gone.

Probably a question I could find the answer to chasing my tail around in the search function but, is there a reason you didn't replace the glow plugs with the original type?

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Probably a question I could find the answer to chasing my tail around in the search function but, is there a reason you didn't replace the glow plugs with the original type?

I could not get 13 G plugs and I was not using Wellman plugs, so I used the 60s. Also I read that the 60 plugs are self limiting meaning they should not melt theirselves.