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CUCVRUS Repair Projects

Recovry4x4

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lAfter I started it I drove it down to an alternator shop and they are going to replace the voltage regulators to self exciting regulators so I don't have to hassle with the idiot lights 3 - 4 times every plowing season. The truck is not worth restoring and it drove fine at 60 MPH. The volt meter was right on the beginning of the green line. I assume Gen 2 is not charging again. No lights needed if the gauge shows the charge rate. Take Care and Be Safe.
I'd like to know a little more about this. Alternators are not my strong suit. There exists a self exciting regulator for the 27SI that can be installed? So, if I install these I can do away with the ALT lights? What I would like to do is put 2 12V gauges in the dash, one for each alternator. I've always been content with idiot lights but here lately I've been thinking that I need gauges.
 

Recovry4x4

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Thanks Rick. I have a gauge cluster ready to go in, I just need to swap out all the senders and figure out the pinout on the cluster.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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I completed the work on the Jersey Indian last night. I took it out for a test drive and the belts squealed so long and loud I had to go back and attempt to tighten them. They are at the maximum adjustment. I proceeded to the parts store and did the walk in and out till I found belts that fit tight and had lots of adjustment left. It drove nice and shifted really smooth. I was going to drive to work today but decided if I can't start a vehicle from my kitchen it is no longer worthy to be my daily driver in the winter. And at 35* that is winter to me. Besides I only live 1/2 mile from work and the energy it takes to start the old beast would not be replenished in the time it took me to drive to work. I see a hard and thorough test run at Rausch Creek for this M1028. It needs to get a little excitement in its life. It looks bored. Take Care and Be Safe. I am finally down to a manageable work load and getting projects completed or at least sealed till spring. I have my garage full again with a special M1009 project. You know. Those that need to know.
I’m finally going to replace the fan belts. I’m tired of the screaming! Problem is, I can’t seem to find the civilian belt part numbers. I’ll cut to the chase: can you give me the correct civilian belt part numbers? I’d prefer the Gates part but I’ll take anything at this time. Many thanks for the all the information you share.

The military number for the left side (drivers) is 43-3226. FedLog shows an alternate of 42-6913. The TM reference is: TM 9-2320-289-20P Fig 28, Item 10.

On the right (passenger) side the part number is 42-6923, TM 9-2320-289-20P Fig 29, Item 4. Alternate part numbers are:
15485
15599208
15599927-1
42-6587
5485
7483
8480
8485
BOO15485
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
My advice is to drive to a local parts store and walk in and out and change them right out in the parking lot. I take a 7/8" wrench or an adjustable to turn the alternators. I get belts that are that tight they barely need any adjustment right up front. That is my sound advice to you. I hope that helps. The power steering gets tighten first and from there Generator 1 and then last Generator 2. Make them have lots of adjustment from new. Some of the sizes recommended are almost out of adjustment after installation. Good Luck. I am still playing the bugle from time to time. I lost my talent from lack of practice over the years.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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My advice is to drive to a local parts store and walk in and out and change them right out in the parking lot. I take a 7/8" wrench or an adjustable to turn the alternators. I get belts that are that tight they barely need any adjustment right up front. That is my sound advice to you. I hope that helps. The power steering gets tighten first and from there Generator 1 and then last Generator 2. Make them have lots of adjustment from new. Some of the sizes recommended are almost out of adjustment after installation. Good Luck. I am still playing the bugle from time to time. I lost my talent from lack of practice over the years.
I’ll take the one that for the driver's side alternator to the parts store. It’s the wrong size. I’ll need a smaller one, maybe an inch shorter. The other two can be tightened up without sloppy slack. Thanks for the help!
I still have one more bugle if yer interested. It’s just gathering dust in the garage.
 

Sharecropper

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jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Laramie County, Wyoming
I went to the local O’Reilly parts store. Not my first choice but NAPA is closed Sundays. After much research by the store manager, we figured out the two alternator belts. Installed after much trial and tribulation. I’ll see if she’ll start tomorrow.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Last week I had a job sent to me. It is a Perkins 7KW 2 cylinder water cooled diesel engine from an air compressor. It belongs to an Amish farmer and his note was unique. He says the blade holder is missing and lose, Sounds ruff, get severdy hot, are blade nuts still available? (actual words and spelling) It needed a fuel filter and 2 blades on the fan were broken and the radiator had milkweed clogged in the cores. It runs fine now and it was never over heated from what I seen. It just vibrated itself to pieces from missing 2 blades on the fan. That and not being mounted securely. All is well. I like little diesel engines. I have a few. My log splitter has a Yanmar 6 HP air cooled diesel engine. I am also building a rock crusher with a diesel engine to power it. COVID has slowed that process down to a crawl. I have parts out being built at machine shops and my helper live 100 miles away. I can't wait for normalcy to return. Take Care. I hope this is not the new normal.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Todays repair projects require a strong back and lots of positive energy. That leaves me alone outside splitting wood by myself. There will be a CUCV involved so I can load the CUCV with split wood and show you how it is done. The CUCV is a 1987 M1028 that was bought and sold twice by me. It comes back because buyers no longer want it and have moved on to newer trucks with modern comforts. The last owner passed and his Wife hated the truck so she called and said, "was I interested? The estate lawyer knew nothing of value and set a scrap price on it. It had dead battery's and wouldn't start with a jump pack. Its still has the same tires I bought it with. Of course I changed the battery's several times. Gen 2 light has never worked and I just floor it when I first pull out and the voltage needle pops right up to the notch. That was easy. I have an alternator with the self exciting voltage regulator but it still works the way it is so I will change the alternator when the fast take off don't work any more. OK. I must get to work. I am having a free course in wood splitting and anyone that can fog a mirror is welcome to attend. Have a Great Day. I have a full schedule. As long as the sun is shining.
 
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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7656.JPG DSCF7657.JPG DSCF7658.JPG DSCF7659.JPG I am back in for a short break and an update. The M1028 is loaded.DSCF7668.JPG DSCF7669.JPG It threatens rain here and a few drops fell. My CUCV and log splitter are waterproof. They are both diesels. I am just amphibious and work outside in all weather. I had a massive firewood pile in my yard that just kept getting bigger and I was dumping new cut logs and wood on the pile. The stuff in the back has been there 5+ years.DSCF7663.JPG I wanted to get it all cleaned up and split. So I started this firewood sale and I found a buyer. I sold it relatively inexpensive because of the age and the deal is I split it and load it and they unload it. They were not as fast as I wanted so I started unloading it myself and decided to start loading the truck also. Before it was just load and drop the trailer. Now I feel like I can get twice as much completed. We will see if they unload it quickly. I drop and run. The trailer gets loaded next. I don't move anything by hand anymore. I use my mind and other homemade motorized Honda units I buy at sales for dirt money. Honda's run forever if you just do minimum maintenance. DSCF7660.JPG I spent 15 minutes trying to get a valve stem cap off the truck. I think the aluminum cap had itself welded fast to the valve stem. Never seen that before. First time for everything. DSCF7661.JPG DSCF7662.JPG OK enough of the ratchet jawing back to work. I may replace and paint some parts later. Take Care and Be Safe. Dougco1 you could bring Easter Find down and I wood load it again just like the old days. I think some of this wood was hauled here with the Easter Find.
 

Saberr

Active member
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Temecula,Ca
Its nice to be amphibious, just not fun to have to swim in where your working. With age comes wisdom, Give a lazy man something to do, and he will find a way to do it faster. :)
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Today I was able to get all my lawn equipment back in the running. I had issues with belts on my Land Pride mower. It was eating belts. The OEM one lasted 20 years but I was eating thru 2 after markets a season. I bit the bullet and bought the $70. Land Pride belt. Sometimes you just spend the big bucks and save the cost of 4 good belts and the carnage that happens when they blow apart from not fitting properly. I should have known but I listened to others. I had this grill guard idea for years. I was going to weld this into a CUCV brush guard. I never did. It is from a Thermo- King unit top cover. Brand new damaged scrap. DSCF7690 - Copy.JPG Here I go again replacing and painting parts. DSCF7691 - Copy.JPG All sanded and ready for prime and paint. DSCF7693.JPG That was easy. DSCF7697.JPGI used a piece of CUCV door seal for a hood seal. DSCF7697.JPG The original one was long gone and the hood rattles at 15 MPH. DSCF7698.JPG I made a little grille guard for the Kubota to protect my grille debris screen. I had it fall off in the past when in the woods loading firewood. Just a small sturdy light weight protector. DSCF7698.JPG I trimmed it out with some more of the door seal and cut the bulb seal from it. Keep in mind the hood must open toward the front and that requires no interference from the guard. Mission accomplished. DSCF7696.JPG I also sanded on the CARC some more today. I want that job done this week and want to make progress at other places. I think they pored the CARC on the rear floor area. Take Care and Be Safe.
 
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