• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCVRUS Repair Projects

cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,466
10,401
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I really struggled getting the snap ring off the lock plate. I am done for today. I may contact the rebuilder again or try and figure out how this little contact goes in place.
 

Attachments

cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,466
10,401
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think that thing that I have on the towel is for the key in ignition buzzer. I never seen that on a CUCV. I am wondering if being this was built 8/83 as a first-year production M1009 if that was eliminated. Same as this having chrome wing vent handles on the front doors. I had it 25 years + and it has 12,674 miles on it which I believe to be actual. OEM Tires and AC Delco batteries were still with it when I bought it. I will ohm that switch. I was just concerned it may be for the horn. I have the contact back in place and think I understand how it works. I still have not figured out how to get the ignition switch out. Have a Great Day. See you in Church.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,466
10,401
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have done my research and by disassembling another CUCV steering column and studying the contacts in question on my current column I can affirm that it is a key in ignition sensor and would not have worked on a CUCV because it does not have door jam switches to complete the ground to active the buzzer when the door was opened with the key on the ignition switch. I have a brand new Genuine GM turn signal switch. I am going to install the new switch and replace the electronic ignition switch and dimmer switch. I think this oddity happened because this was an early build and they were still ironing out complete part details. 08/83 is an early 1984 production date. Enjoy the Sunday. IMG_1337.jpegIMG_1339.jpegIMG_1340.jpegIMG_1338.jpeg
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,466
10,401
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I dove right in after church and took the entire column apart and cleaned it. I also spent an hour scrubbing the steering wheel. I want it to look as OEM as possible and I installed the key sensor back in the column. I think the column looks great. I am not going to paint the column. I will be painting the firewall column cover that seals the column at the base of the cab inside. IMG_1341.jpeg IMG_1342.jpeg IMG_1343.jpeg IMG_1343.jpeg IMG_1344.jpeg
More as it happens. The horn button is just there for comparison. Have a Gteat Day.
 
WWRD99

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,111
1,704
113
Location
York Pa
cucvrus said:
I have done my research and by disassembling another CUCV steering column and studying the contacts in question on my current column I can affirm that it is a key in ignition sensor and would not have worked on a CUCV because it does not have door jam switches to complete the ground to active the buzzer when the door was opened with the key on the ignition switch. I have a brand new Genuine GM turn signal switch. I am going to install the new switch and replace the electronic ignition switch and dimmer switch. I think this oddity happened because this was an early build and they were still ironing out complete part details. 08/83 is an early 1984 production date. Enjoy the Sunday. View attachment 918166View attachment 918165View attachment 918164View attachment 918163
Click to expand...
That is for the key in buzzer for sure! I rip them out and don't put them back in...not needed. Did you get the lock out? I see the column in pieces. I got a ton of the turn signal switches still in the shiny wrap...got a steering wheel yet too...lol.
 
Buck69

Buck69

Member
53
90
18
Location
Northern British Columbia
cucvrus said:
View attachment 918124 This is the piece that I am unknowing of. I still can’t get the lock cylinder out. No screw and I watched a dozen you tube videos. First CUCV I seen without a stew holding the lock cylinder in.
Click to expand...
I have power to everything now in my '86 M1008. The diesel stuff is removed. When I initially key on, the fasten belt and low coolant lights come on along with the buzzer for 3-4 seconds and all go out and return to normal. Unplugging the coolant sensor trips it's light but not buzzer. Have not had my column apart but thinking this may be tied into it.
30 years ago, I had an '85 civilian model 2500. I don't recall this happening with it but that doesn't mean I didn't toss the buzzer.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,466
10,401
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
cracked frame.jpg 2 cracked frame.jpgSomewhere along the line I ended up with a cracked frame on my M1102 trailer. Not sure how I am going to fix it or if I want to. It must have been like that for a while. I hauled a lot of firewood in that trailer. This is the first one I ever seen broken. Like my Dad used to say I could break and anvil. I read once were Schutt trailer wrote they never had a broken M1102 or M1101 trailer that broke. I don't think this is a Schutt trailer. It is a 1997. It was a machine shop trailer. Oh well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,655members
165,172threads
2,324,089posts
676online users
Top