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CUCV's bigger brother

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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I've picked up several chevy crew cabs (civilian trucks used by the Military). (2) 90' Chevy
V-30 duallys (with Air cond) used by the Navy. They each have 4.56:1 ratio TH 400 NP205 and 6.2 diesels (1) 91' Chevy Air Force V-30 dually no A/C but has 6.2 4L80e overdrive NP205 with 4.10:1 ratio. And one 91' R-30 2wd Air Force truck w/AC 5.7L gas 4L80e 4.10 rear. That extra seat is handy space to have. I think you will like the truck. Do you know what ratio the truck is ? Good Luck
Now that's a truck I'd love to find! I can add A/C. Still have it?
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
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Evart,Michigan
Agree that is the only thing I miss with my 1028 is the extended cab .that spoils you never think about it when you have it . then you and the wife go shopping and come out of store with a full cart to remember you drove the 1028 aua
 

Milbikes

New member
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Location
CT
Today I bought an ignition lock/switch assembly, removed the steering wheel, and replaced the old lock. It wasn't too bad of a job. I coughed up the $11 for the NAPA pressure ring tool, which made it easy to do. I found a video on Youtube that showed how to do it.

All the lights work correctly. The truck turned over slowly, then stopped. I put it on the charger and now I just get a click, no starter turning. It had several loose battery cable clamps, bolts etc. which are now tight. Batteries are charging over night.

As I looked over the engine, I get the feeling it is replaced or rebuilt. The exhaust manifold bolts are not rusted. The injector lines are shiny new. The injectors are really rust free. Valve covers are clean and black. There is no oil or grime buildup on the engine to speak of. After the troubles my Suburban has been giving me, I am due for an easy time.......please!

And the strangest thing I found in the truck? A large hawk feather up under the dash.
 

Milbikes

New member
260
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0
Location
CT
It's aliiiiiiiive!

When I first tried to start the truck after bringing it home from Fort Indiantown Gap, it turned over a few times, then the batteries got weak, and it just clicked. I charged them up, both read 12.97 volts independently. Still only a click when key turned.

I cleaned all cables and grounds. Still just a click.

Went to Advanced Auto, and bought a new manufactured "Remy" starter. NOWHERE did it say where it was made, however in the small text describing the company's history, they mentioned they were a "Multi-national" company.

It was easy getting the original starter out, and it was the HEAVIEST starter I have worked on.

The new starter had a narrower body. I got it into place, but couldn't get the two bolts in for the life of me, and I tried......put many a bolt in in my day.

It turns out the starter bolts that were on the truck have a short knurled section near the threaded end that is just a tad wider O.D. than the body of the bolt. They would not go through the starter bolt holes completely. They would go most of the way and then stop dead, like a press fit! I tried the bolts in the original starter, and they fit fine. Chinese machining tolerances strike again.

I had to dress the knurled section down a little bit.

The old starter had a cracked nosecone, and the large power cable from the battery to the starter had a lot of melted insulation.

Once in, the truck cranked over fine, but didn't start right away.........pppucker factor went up. I let the starter rest between attempts, and then we got a pop, and another pop, and then, it started. My neighbors undoubtedly hear the loud "Yeah baby" which was better than what they were hearing previously.

The motor sounds great, much less clatter than my M1008. It has good oil pressure, no smoke at all, and the charging system seems to be putting out well too.

I took a short drive around the hay field, and everything seems to work. I sure hope this turns out to be a good one. I need it after the truck troubles I have been dealing with for the past few weeks.
 

Milbikes

New member
260
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0
Location
CT
There is no RPO code sticker on the glove box door, it looks like there was one that got peeled of. Any way to find out other than by taking the differential cover off? H.
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
17
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
There is no RPO code sticker on the glove box door, it looks like there was one that got peeled of. Any way to find out other than by taking the differential cover off? H.

Look on the frt diff bolts for a small metal tag, if its there it will tell you
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
OKC, OK
There is no RPO code sticker on the glove box door, it looks like there was one that got peeled of. Any way to find out other than by taking the differential cover off? H.
Try this site. They have alot of VINs in the system but not all of them.

Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder

I have found it is a hit and miss on former government vehicles.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
The old starter had a cracked nosecone, and the large power cable from the battery to the starter had a lot of melted insulation.

Did the old starter have the support bracket? Did you install one with the new starter?

Was the new starter a Gear Reduction unit?
 

Milbikes

New member
260
0
0
Location
CT
The differential has a tag that states 4.10.

There was a rear bracket on the old starter, and I made it fit the new one.

While under the truck, I noticed one of the freeze plugs has a three pronged male connection in it.

When sitting for a day, the truck starts, then stalls a couple of times before it idles steady. If I rev the engine and let off quickly it stalls, but if I let off slowly, it doesn't. What needs adjusting? H.
 

TRG

New member
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0
Location
New Mexico
GL Barstow, CA has a 2000 up for bid.

TRG, please read the rules posted below!
 
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