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Dark Seas M1008 Project

DarkSeas

Well-known member
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Location
Leland, N.C.
Yeah, that's a modification. I'd secure the loose wires so they don't find something hot or moving. Are you missing your CDR entirely? I have an extra.
No sir, that's an old photo. I've got a CDR. I'm not really what stage of the teardown I was at in that photo. I can see labels on the wires so that's definitely after I rewired the motor with an intact harness... The alternators were gone in that photo, I'm assuming I was waiting to get them back from a local shop. Will definitely zip tie those loose wires together to keep them away from the block (and wheel, that fender is rotted out right underneath where that fuel pump is)
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
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63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Little bit of an update since memorial day...

I got a new coolant overflow jug in from RockAuto and put it on yesterday. The original bracket didn't like the angled mount of the new jug (old jug mount just went straight up, this one is at like a 45 degree angle), so I ziptied it in a few spots for now just to hold it still and upright, seemed to hold just fine.

I also took the time to unhook the batteries and flip them. I'm pretty sure my GEN1 works and my GEN2 needs some behind the dash troubleshooting, so for now I figure every couple of weeks swap the batteries so that they can charge up on the GEN1 alternator. Prior to messing with anything, the GEN1 light came on with the key and turned off when the truck started (you're about to see why this matters)

Of course, upon flipping the batteries and changing the coolant jug out I caused myself a new problem... my GEN1 light doesn't come on anymore with the key. The truck started, so I know I have the batteries connected correctly, or else it wouldn't have had 24V to start. The fuel pump (12V) and glow plugs (I could hear a change in fuel pump tone when activating the GP) both seem operational with the key in on position, it's just the GEN1 light that's out. Weird. I'm getting a multimeter today, it's due time I dig into charging system anyway...

Full info of what changed: I disconnected the batteries and swapped the battery positions front/back. I replaced coolant overflow jug and removed the original's bracket. When I got the bracket for the old jug off, I found a small ground (I think for the headlight/LED pod light) tucked in behind the washer and bolt that held the bracket to the radiator support. I put this ground back with the same bolt and washer after removing the bracket -- my headlights and turn signals and everything worked fine when I fired her up, I just noticed my GEN1 light was no longer glowing before startup.

Next steps:
1. Maybe the GEN1 light isn't coming on because the "depleted" battery doesn't have enough voltage? -- The batteries are only about a year old, the front battery was depleted from ~20 truck starts. Truck still starts fine and all the 12V accessories still work. Will check both batteries voltage with multimeter. If that's the case and that battery voltage is "low", the GEN1 might not be getting excited and charging.

2. The heater fuse might be out, I have spare fuses in the truck, that'd be an easy test and fix.

3. With the truck running, is she getting ~14.5V at the 12V battery? I'd like to see if it's just a bulb issue and the alternators working fine/the GEN1 light will return after a drive or two.. I doubt I will get that lucky though, dash lights seem pretty critical to normal operation of the alternators...

4. Maybe the bulb died? I feel like that'd be less likely than the GEN2 bulb (which had probably glowed for years when the truck was converted to 12V)

5. Other ideas?
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
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Location
Leland, N.C.
I had a feeling this morning to check on the CUCV and turn the key, I have a GEN1 light again. Super weird, maybe when I had it running after the swap it ended up charging up the battery and I get a light again? I'm still getting a multimeter after work today to verify my GEN1 charges the 12V battery when running.
 

dougco1

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Cooperstown NY
I had a feeling this morning to check on the CUCV and turn the key, I have a GEN1 light again. Super weird, maybe when I had it running after the swap it ended up charging up the battery and I get a light again? I'm still getting a multimeter after work today to verify my GEN1 charges the 12V battery when running.
A multimeter is the first thing you want in your tool box when you own a CUCV
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
A multimeter is the first thing you want in your tool box when you own a CUCV
Just bought one! Checked the voltages and had 12.77 at the rear battery and 12.74 on the front battery.

Started the truck, the GEN1 light was on. Truck started just fine. Checked voltages again. I've got:

14.53 rear battery
14.6 front battery
And 29.15V on the pos/neg 24V bus..... is.... is my GEN2 working even though the light isn't?? Or is somehow my GEN1 charging both magically?
 

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Cooperstown NY
Just bought one! Checked the voltages and had 12.77 at the rear battery and 12.74 on the front battery.

Started the truck, the GEN1 light was on. Truck started just fine. Checked voltages again. I've got:

14.53 rear battery
14.6 front battery
And 29.15V on the pos/neg 24V bus..... is.... is my GEN2 working even though the light isn't?? Or is somehow my GEN1 charging both magically?
Sounds like your well in the green on both alts for charging.
Good job
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
I think Gen 2 light will come on if its "not" charging.
But, I could be wrong.
I figured it would do what the GEN1 light does - it's on when the battery is on but the truck isn't running, but goes away once the truck fires up and starts spinning the alt.

I don't think I've ever seen the GEN2 light on, I assumed it burnt out when the guy before me converted to 12V, I assumed it just stayed lit 24/7 until it died, but if I remember correct about a year ago I pulled the bulb out and the bulb was fine.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Fun little update...
I can start the CUCV without a key. Found that out last weekend. I can just turn the ignition fins (not sure the exact name of that part) and the truck will fire right off. I'm assuming it's supposed to lock without the key... lube the key and run it through the pins a few times to see if it works? Change the cylinder out? What kind of options am I looking at here? Keep it as a feature and just add a hidden kill switch somewhere?
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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York Pa
Fun little update...
I can start the CUCV without a key. Found that out last weekend. I can just turn the ignition fins (not sure the exact name of that part) and the truck will fire right off. I'm assuming it's supposed to lock without the key... lube the key and run it through the pins a few times to see if it works? Change the cylinder out? What kind of options am I looking at here? Keep it as a feature and just add a hidden kill switch somewhere?
See if you turn it off all the way to see if it'll lock the steering wheel. It should lock. If not changing the cylinder takes 2 pullers. One for the wheel and one for the spring lock under the horn. Not hard and not expensive.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

Mullaney

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Supporting Vendor
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Charlotte NC
Fun little update...
I can start the CUCV without a key. Found that out last weekend. I can just turn the ignition fins (not sure the exact name of that part) and the truck will fire right off. I'm assuming it's supposed to lock without the key... lube the key and run it through the pins a few times to see if it works? Change the cylinder out? What kind of options am I looking at here? Keep it as a feature and just add a hidden kill switch somewhere?
.
Yep. You can buy a replacement lock cylinder online.
You could put a kill switch if you want to...
 
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