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Death of a Multifuel

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
General Mcgregor,

First, thank you for great documentation and good pics. Keep them coming! I would love to see more pics and get even more info to try to understand the root cause failure better. I know you want to get your truck running first, yet hope you will continue to share.

Second, your immediate issue with the pressure plate fasteners. Have you looked at the torque specs in table 1-1 in TM 9-2815-21034-2-1? You should be able to look at the size and head marking and get a pretty good idea. I don’t want to be the master of the obvious, but there is the old rule of thumb that if you use the standard combo wrench and a general good tug that should be in the right neighborhood (NOT a strict rule by the way). I’m very curious about why they are breaking. Perhaps they have been over-tightened in the past? Or your torque wrench working improperly? Or the torque you are way too much for the fastener?

Third, I’ve always been amazed studying fasteners stating with a day lecture when I took auto shop in HS and ever since as an engineer. People generally have no idea about fasteners in terms of why they are tightening them, how much, how little, how and why, sources of variation, how strong are they, how they fail, etc. If you are interested ARP has some great info at http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml and there’s lots of other good stuff on the web. I disassembled an engine that required barely more than a thumb and forefinger to remove the rod nuts! Talk about inadequate preload!

Last is the follow-up on your failure. Are you up to working with me or others here to understand this failure better? I’m sure you want to avoid it in the future and this may lead to better understanding for all of us.

Possible root causes of the failure appear to include connecting rod bolt inadequate pre-stretch, excessive connecting rod bolt pre-stretch or stretch during operations, connecting rod bearing failure, piston failure such as the wrist pin being pulled from the bottom of the piston, piston seizing in the bore while the piston was travelling down, did the big end of the rod fail or did the cap come off, etc.

Some things that seem to be OK to rule out include connecting rod beam failure (unlikely because all of the ends are there and it doesn’t seem to have been crushed by hydrostatic lock, the small end of the rod did not fail, are there others?

Some other ideas and questions:

What type to oil, filters, fuel, oil change intervals, etc. did this engine see?

I noticed in one of the pictures that the connecting rod main beam is intact. This suggests it did not load up with fuel (hydrostatic lock) or fail in tension. The big end also seems to be intact, i.e. did not fail.

Did you find the rod bolts and rod cap? I’m curious about preload on all of your other connecting rod bolts. It would be most fun to record the torque required to loosen them and measure their stretch.

Is that bottom of the piston I see laying in the bottom of the oil pan? If so, is there other half still in the bore? Else you would have lost all boost at the least.

I wish I was on the right coast, but unfortunately I’m here on the left coast and far from GM.

Does anyone else on here have documentation or an engine with a catastrophic failure like this?
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
General Mcgregor,

First, thank you for great documentation and good pics. Keep them coming! I would love to see more pics and get even more info to try to understand the root cause failure better. I know you want to get your truck running first, yet hope you will continue to share.

Second, your immediate issue with the pressure plate fasteners. Have you looked at the torque specs in table 1-1 in TM 9-2815-21034-2-1? You should be able to look at the size and head marking and get a pretty good idea. I don’t want to be the master of the obvious, but there is the old rule of thumb that if you use the standard combo wrench and a general good tug that should be in the right neighborhood (NOT a strict rule by the way). I’m very curious about why they are breaking. Perhaps they have been over-tightened in the past? Or your torque wrench working improperly? Or the torque you are way too much for the fastener?

Third, I’ve always been amazed studying fasteners stating with a day lecture when I took auto shop in HS and ever since as an engineer. People generally have no idea about fasteners in terms of why they are tightening them, how much, how little, how and why, sources of variation, how strong are they, how they fail, etc. If you are interested ARP has some great info at http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml and there’s lots of other good stuff on the web. I disassembled an engine that required barely more than a thumb and forefinger to remove the rod nuts! Talk about inadequate preload!

Last is the follow-up on your failure. Are you up to working with me or others here to understand this failure better? I’m sure you want to avoid it in the future and this may lead to better understanding for all of us.

Possible root causes of the failure appear to include connecting rod bolt inadequate pre-stretch, excessive connecting rod bolt pre-stretch or stretch during operations, connecting rod bearing failure, piston failure such as the wrist pin being pulled from the bottom of the piston, piston seizing in the bore while the piston was travelling down, did the big end of the rod fail or did the cap come off, etc.

Some things that seem to be OK to rule out include connecting rod beam failure (unlikely because all of the ends are there and it doesn’t seem to have been crushed by hydrostatic lock, the small end of the rod did not fail, are there others?

Some other ideas and questions:

What type to oil, filters, fuel, oil change intervals, etc. did this engine see?

I noticed in one of the pictures that the connecting rod main beam is intact. This suggests it did not load up with fuel (hydrostatic lock) or fail in tension. The big end also seems to be intact, i.e. did not fail.

Did you find the rod bolts and rod cap? I’m curious about preload on all of your other connecting rod bolts. It would be most fun to record the torque required to loosen them and measure their stretch.

Is that bottom of the piston I see laying in the bottom of the oil pan? If so, is there other half still in the bore? Else you would have lost all boost at the least.

I wish I was on the right coast, but unfortunately I’m here on the left coast and far from GM.

Does anyone else on here have documentation or an engine with a catastrophic failure like this?
Thank you for your reply sir, first let me elaborate on the bolts that are failing. I did locate the proper torque for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts (25 - 27 ft lbs) but only after I had already stripped out the flywheel. The bolts are grade 5 9/16ths bolts that are about 1 1/2" long with about the last 3/4" threaded coarse. (I'm not up on my fasteners, I need to get some official specs tomorrow). It's not my torque wrench, it's brand new in fact I bought it just for this engine swap. I just over torqued it, it's that simple. Luckily I have some ideas for resolving the issue which I will post about tomorrow.

As far as the cause of the failure, at this point your guess is as good as mine but I am going to tear apart the old engine and take some high res photos of the broken components. Somebody like you will probably be able to diagnose what happend from my photos and descriptions, but I will be more than happy to lend whatever help I can to better understand why this happens. I have no problem allowing this thread to become a discussion on this topic and encourage anyone with info on this failure to post about it here. I hope that my experience can help prevent this from happening in the future.
 

Vintage iron

Active member
1,123
16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
Steve throw those bolts away and buy new ones that are the same grade. There are a few bolts that you always need to replace. Exhaust manifold, turbo, and flywheel. Those over torqued bolt will run the risk of snapping. put a threaded insert in the flywheel they come with a permanent locktite, I prefer them over helicoil thread repair. Always torque flywheel bolts in stepped increments.
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Thanks Matt, I am going to see how deep the flywheel bolt holes are and how deep they are threaded. It isn't the bolts that are stripped it's the tapped threads in the flywheel. If I can get away with using a longer bolt to catch some undamaged threads deeper in the holes than it may be as simple as that.
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Well I should update everyone on my progress in the last few days.

On Saturday I went and got the Dodge (which has been sitting in my shop with the new engine in the back since I went to pick it up a few months back) and drove it home. My new exhaust/turbo gasket and T/O bearing had come in and I had finally secured a ractor with a high enough reach to do the swap. My neighbor was kind enough to offer his front end loader for the cause.
When I saw how big the tractor was I elected to leave the winch installed and just lift the engine over it. (FOR THE RECORD, I would not do it this way again. In the future I would remove it, I didn't realize the mess I was creating for myself when it came time to install the new engine).
My neighbor came up at 3pm and we got right into it. I bought two, 3ft lenghts of chan from NAPA as well as two hooks and two quick links. The tractor would have forks installed so I figured a length for the front and another for the rear. Everything started out ok until the motor shifted forward and the front mounting plate got jammed up against the back of the winch. We moved it every which way but it wasn't budging, I figured since the plate would need to get switched to the new motor anyway I might as well remove it while it was in the truck. This freed it up and it came right out after that.
I had my neighbor remove the new engine from the Dodge and set it down on the lawn so I could switch some parts over from the old one.

On Sunday I was up bright and early with my coffee and lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the flywheel and pressure plate. At first I didn't want to use ANYTHING abrasive but after I realized the elbow grease needed to pull that paint off by hand with a rag I decided to go with what Matt said and use some 220gr sandpaper to help out a little. I'm glad that I did, the surface came out looking fantastic and all the paint had been stripped away.

Next I stared adding parts to the new engine. Starter, Relay, Turbo, Heater valves, yada yada yada. I transfered the petcock drains for the coolant and secondary fuel filter bleeder as well. I set the belt tensions for the generator and air compressor. Next I installed the flywheel (you already know what happens here). I used the input shaft from my old trans (remember? the one from the transmission replacement thread? eh?) to align the clutch.

So around 2:30pm Sunday the new engine was ready to go in. I called my neighbor and he was up at my house with the tractor in a half hour, we got right into it. The first issue we ran into was when the rear chain slipped off the forks and caused the engine to crash awkwardly into the bay. The oil pan got a little dinged on the forward sump and I ended up completely crushing the copper vent tube that comes up near the air cleaner. Ended up having to use a chain fall to right the engine to it's correct orientation. I clamped a set of visegrips onto the forks to keep the chain from slipping again.
Next the front of the oil pan got hung up against the back of the winch (again, I would remove it next time) but we were able to pry it out with a block of wood. Then it was just a matter of aligning the engine mounts and the bushings, at this point I re-installed the forward mounting plate and although it was in a tight spot I tightened the bolts (had the winch been removed I could have done this outside the truck).
So that was it for the tractors part (which I might add turned out to be the hardest part so far) other than moving the old engine to a spot in the yard where I could rip it apart. I spent the rest of the afternoon into the evening hooking things back up. I got as far as the electrical connections, fuel lines, air lines, tach cable and throttle linkages before I called it quits.

Monday after work installed the flex pipe for the exhaust, the intake assembly, and the radiator. I decided to leave the trans off to better troubleshoot any problems that might arise and to leave less work if the engine needed to come back out for any reason. It was all ready for first start.

Today after work I picked up the oil and started as soon as I got home. I filled the cooling system (stopping to address a couple of loose and leaky hose clamps along the way) and the crankcase. Next I installed the batteries and did a final GO/ NO GO check of all my hardware and connections. I wanted to rotate the engine a few times before priming it to make sure everything was getting oil. I pulled the engine stop handle and turned on the master (to that old familliar low air buzzer I have been missing for seven months). When I hit the starter button nothing happend, I mean NOTHING! There was no clicks, sparks, thuds, NOTHING! The air buzzer even stayed on which NEVER happens!

Well I figured it had to be something I had wired wrong, so I went over my notes, diagrams and photos. Everything was where it was supposed to be. Checked for loose connections, none. Even checked the switch out with my test light, worked fine. I checked for juice to the solenoid, yup! Next to the relay, YUP! I figured it HAD to be the relay since there was no sound at all coming from the starter. I used jumper cables to jump power between the two terminals of the relay, this way I could jump it safely (without getting jolted) to determine if this was the problem. It was!! The engine cranked over fine.
I decided to worry about the relay later, right now I was just so eager to hear my truck run again. I primed the fuel system and gave the oil level one last look.
Then with the contact of two jumper cables my engine roared to life!!

The first thing that struck me was how smooth and quiet it seemed compared to my old engine. Pretty good for a crate engine that had been sitting in depot since 1990. I placed a large, fresh piece of cardboard under the front end to observe any leaks that might develop. It ran for about 15min before I shut it down and checked the oil level again. So far the only problem was a squeaky pulley (knockonwood). It was getting dark so I decided to pack it up and tinker some more tomorrow. So far so good but only time will tell how well everything went together. I will also need to locate a new relay or find some way to fix this one.

Zero Hour noted on dash in permanant marker, 1780 1/10ths

More updates to follow in the coming days, your input is appreciated as always!!

Here are some pics!
-GM
 

Attachments

Capriceii

Active member
117
39
28
Location
Streetsboro, Ohio
Wow That is almost the same thing I spent my weekend doing. We have about 6 more hours of work to do on mine. Some how I got LDS-465 from Toole in crate clean as a whistle.. Rebuilt in 1991, stored in a heated building.. Got it for the right price, free. I am counting my blessings on that one, took almost 3 years. Only issue was the bell housing. Friend had to do some fab work to make room for the rear seal on the new motor. Glad to see you got her up and running.. Hope mine will soon to following.

May she run smooth for you from here on out!

Sure do find out who your friends are:)

TF
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Fixed the relay today, something to keep an eye out for.

Not sure if it was when I was removing it or installing it but I spun the control stud on the top. I spun it enough times to twist the wire inside the cap and cause it to break off at the solder point.

Quick fix, pulled the cap and re-soldered the control wire onto the bottom of the stud.
-GM
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
There is an idea floating around that the 6pt rod bolts are failure prone; can you check and see what you have?
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
There is an idea floating around that the 6pt rod bolts are failure prone; can you check and see what you have?
I found one of those broken in half on top of my front axle. I'll take a look at the others and post some photos of what I find.

I got the trans back in today, hoping to have her on the road tomorrow afternoon! (fingerscrossed)
-GM
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Well after almost 8 months I'm back on the road!

This weekend I got the trans back in, adjusted the clutch and went for a ride!
She ran better than I ever could have expected; more power, better throttle response and excellent clutch response. She is running like a new truck.
It smelled pretty bad on the first ride (CARC burning off the manifold I'm guessing) but other than that it had no leaks and no other problems. I've been breaking it in over the last couple days, I even took her to work and gave a salute as I passed the black oil mark on the highway where my other engine decided to blow apart.
So far so good, but today I noticed a very minor leak coming from the bell housing vent (rear main seal??) Somebody told me to run ATF in the oil to soften the seals and prevent leaks, any input?
Thanks!!
-GM
 

Carlo

New member
1,364
20
0
Location
palazzago italia
Well after almost 8 months I'm back on the road!

This weekend I got the trans back in, adjusted the clutch and went for a ride!
She ran better than I ever could have expected; more power, better throttle response and excellent clutch response. She is running like a new truck.
It smelled pretty bad on the first ride (CARC burning off the manifold I'm guessing) but other than that it had no leaks and no other problems. I've been breaking it in over the last couple days, I even took her to work and gave a salute as I passed the black oil mark on the highway where my other engine decided to blow apart.
So far so good, but today I noticed a very minor leak coming from the bell housing vent (rear main seal??) Somebody told me to run ATF in the oil to soften the seals and prevent leaks, any input?
Thanks!!
-GM
Are ypu sure its motor oil and not trans oil? I had a leak liken this also and it was coming from the trans. I went to buy a seal kit and was told there is no seal. I lowered the oil level some and the leak stopped.
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Are ypu sure its motor oil and not trans oil? I had a leak liken this also and it was coming from the trans. I went to buy a seal kit and was told there is no seal. I lowered the oil level some and the leak stopped.
You're right!! It is gear oil, it stinks just like it! I'm not sure why it was so black, it's fresh from the swap. Maybe it picked up old grease and clutch dust from the bell housing?
-GM
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Wanted to update real quick, I haven't got around to ripping into the old engine because for the last three months I have been moving and getting settled into my new place. I don't know if I am going to at this point because I am trying to sell / part it out. Before I wrapped it in a tarp I found two rod bolts that were snapped just above the shank, I still cant tell weather or not this was as a result of the failure or the cause.
I also have a theory about the gear oil leak, I think the vibration from the unbalanced engine caused excessive wear and resulting play in the bearing or retaining ring on the trans input shaft. Just a thought, probably should have checked it while it was out ... It is however a very small leak and nothing I would otherwise be concerned about. The pto leaks more than this.
 

Joeinderry

New member
115
1
0
Location
Derry/NH
Hey, its Joeinderry. I wanted to thank you for my new parts engine today. It will come in handy. Keep your eye out in the next month or so for a rat rod multifuel engine build.
 
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