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Death wobble + Doghead relay mod

a175

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Lake Charles, LA
I'll have to check that out. Court coming up next week. If I'm still free AND have $$$ then I'll be checking that out.
Guess I should start reading TMs, because I haven't the slightest idea what a king pin is.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
If you installed new headlights that are not sealed beam like Silver Star for brighter lights, but removable H4 in the glass housing. Than you must install a headlight relay kit as the amperage is WAY to high for the stock wiring. This would be why your fuse melted as it got hot, but did not blow the fuse before it blew. If you fuse block is not melted bad, you may be able to install you original headlights and be on your way until your parts arrive.

Page 62, Heavy duty headlight harness 36-3580.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 62
 

a175

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Lake Charles, LA
Bought sealed beams from NAPA when I was getting the new relay. Because of youth and ignorance, I told the cashier "Actually, sir, I don't need the whole lamp assembly... just the bulb". He earned that laugh.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
1,859
30
48
Location
Clover, SC
I used to have a problem with that same fuse. It was always loose. I think it may be a common problem with heating up, but any way. I took needle nose pliers and crimped the prongs so it would be tighter against the fuse. This lasted about a month. Then I soldered the fuse to make it thicker and nice and tight against the prongs and have not had a problem. On my other 08 I looks like it is completely gone so maybe the same thing happened.
 

Warthog

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On the CUCV series trucks, the headlight fuse actually feeds the stop light fuse also.

We continuously preach to:

1) disconnect bothe batteries
2) removes all the fuses
3) clean the contacts with electrical contact cleaner
4) install fresh quality fuses (no chinese discount crap)
5) clean batteries connections and reconnect them

Sure save alot of headaches late at night before you have to go to work
 

a175

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Lake Charles, LA
Gonna see if I can find some of that cleaner stuff today and get after it.
Question-
If my headlights work but brake lights don't, what are the chances that it's a bulb rather than fuse issue?
 

Warthog

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If my headlights work but brake lights don't, what are the chances that it's a bulb rather than fuse issue?

The headlight fuse is connected to the stop light fuse via a metal tab behind the front cover of the box.

Check the stoplight fuse.

Do you own a multimeter and know how to use it? If not buy a digital one, log on to youtube and learn how to use it.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:

Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight
 

a175

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Lake Charles, LA
I'll check that connection after work. I own an analog multimeter, but don't know how to use it yet. I reckon I can get a digital one.
Load tester I can get.
12v charger I can get. Help an ignorant man....why a 12v charger? Just charge one batt? That will be enough to crank? Or charge one at a time?
 

a175

New member
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Lake Charles, LA
I'll check that connection after work. I own an analog multimeter, but don't know how to use it yet. I reckon I can get a digital one.
Load tester I can get.
12v charger I can get. Help an ignorant man....why a 12v charger? Just charge one batt? That will be enough to crank? Or charge one at a time?
 

Warthog

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I'll check that connection after work. I own an analog multimeter, but don't know how to use it yet. I reckon I can get a digital one.
Load tester I can get.
12v charger I can get. Help an ignorant man....why a 12v charger? Just charge one batt? That will be enough to crank? Or charge one at a time?

Before working on any electrical problem, you should always verify the condition of the batteries. Fully charged and load tested. Just because it has the correct voltage it may not work when put under a load. I have seen toooooo many bad batteries.

12v charger because the batteries are 12v. Charge one at a time.

Your analog meter is fine but a digital can give you better and more acurate readings.

Help yourself and learn how to use the voltmeter.

With the trucks being 25+ years old, finding someone to work on them is getting harder and more expensive. Everyone wants to work on the new cars and make a bunch of money doing it.

You can learn your vehicle and save a bunch of money. They are supper simple. Just takes some studying and learning.
 
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a175

New member
175
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Location
Lake Charles, LA
I'll get on the learning of the tools.
One of the things I love about the CUCV is that I can learn how to diagnose and repair it without a degree in computer science.
Thank you for your patience!
 

lindyp38

New member
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Location
ulster county ny
the doghead mod took me about 45min to do........pics were plentiful and directions easy to follow........

itll give u peace of mind.......good luck.....
 

K10A

Member
225
5
18
Location
Western Co
Replace your king pin springs and bushings and your steering stabilizer. Inspect a tie rod ends ,wheels bearing and drag link ends.
 

Warthog

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I see that I need to do more reading, as I literally have no idea what any of those are haha.

Easiest way is to open the parts manuals (you do have them don't you) and look at the pictures. Helps make more sense than just reading words.

Also give us some background on yourself. Age, mechanical abliity, etc
 

a175

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Location
Lake Charles, LA
Easiest way is to open the parts manuals (you do have them don't you) and look at the pictures. Helps make more sense than just reading words.

Also give us some background on yourself. Age, mechanical abliity, etc
Just got back from lunch. There was a 20p at the doorstep. I tried downloading some TM's but I'm a paper-in-hand person, and printing them out... Well I'd rather get them in original print.
I'm 29. Mechanical ability.....
I have potential, but limited experience. Zero on diesels. Just basic PMCSing vehicles in the Army, but usually the mechanics did that as I was never a driver, just a dismount.
My previous units are listed in my signature - 1st Ranger Bn and 3rd Infantry Div.
 
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