Deep water fording

[ken]

Just got the deep water fording kit for my M52A2. Anybody have one of these?

 

[Lax]

Ken,
Where did you get it and for how much? If you don't mind me asking. I'm thinking about making my own. Thanks.

 

[devilman96]

Yeah post some pics if ya dont mind please...

 

[ken]

I got it from bret at boyce equipment. I think they have a few left. I'll try to post some pics. It's all NOS and in the box.

 

[m.walker]

How much ?

 

[ken]

I paid $50 for it.

 

[MotorTMan]

Ken, That kit you are getting from Boyce is only the intake extension for the air cleaner, a small piece of rubber hose for the extension, and 2 hoses for the air compressor and the crankcase breather tube. Also, a couple brackets and clamps are included. basically, its the "external" kit. There is alot more a fording kit, such as under the hood valves, piping, and cables, and it is very extensive, as I have applied them years ago to multi's and Cummins prime movers. So, if you dont have the fording cable in the cab and all the small tubing and valves under the hood, I wouldnt be going through too deep a pond just yet. I have bought that kit from Boyce a year ago, and it was just again, the outside hardware. Its really easy to put on. I have to say it does look really good on the truck though, even if you dont have the full kit applied.

 

[Lax]

MotorTMan,
With just the external kit you are talking about what depth of water can a M35 ford on a hard surface bottom? I was thinking of making a "fording kit" by running hoses from all the drivetrain vents to the air intake can. My thought is that logically I should be able to ford water as deep as the air intake will let me. A diesel engine should be able to run under water all day as long as the intake and exhaust are above the surface of the water. Most everything else of importance on the truck is sealed from water ie. starter, generator, ignition, fuel tank cap, oil filler cap, etc. Am I making a mistake with this logic? Thanks for your help......getting to the bottom of this.....
Sorry for the pun. That was to easy to pass up!

 

[ken]

Your right. But i already have the other components. I've been looking for the outside stuff for a long time now. I got the other stuff NOS a few years back. I already have one on my M35 and they work great for hurricanes. I've had it in water just over the hood on the freeway durning tropical storm allison. I think they are nessary if you live in hurricane country.

 

[BFR]

is it the same kit for a deuce?

 

[ken]

Lax, There is a regulator valve that takes pressurised air from the air for the brakes. It goes into the bellhousing to keep water out of the clutch. It's set to keep the bellhousing at 4 PSI.

 

[Lax]

Ken,
That makes sense. Other then that, the vent hoses and the extended breather tube what is needed to make a working fording kit? Can I get the regulator valve you are talking about somewhere and how hard is it to instal? I'm still talking about for an M35. Thanks for all the help!
Steve

 

[ken]

You'll need to run a hose from the aircompressor intake to the fitting on the air filter canaster. You could probally use a regulator for a propane tank. They are set a 7PSI.
Use a flapper valve like the one for the air shift t-case. Just run air to your valve then to the regulator. Then to the bell housing. I have the blue prints that came with the fording kit. If you like i'll get you a photo copy.

 

[Lax]

Ken,
That would be great if it's not to much trouble. I can give you my e-mail address or fax number or whatever you would like.

So if I understand you correctly once I find one of those regulators, that should keep the pressure in the air intake canaster at 7PSI +/-. From the canaster I then run an airline to the bell housing which supplies constant pressure at all times keeping water out.

Can I run it like this all the time or only when fording. Also, what about the vents for the rest of the drivetrain. Can I keep positive pressure on the diffs, the transfer case, trany, etc? And can I do it at all times? Thanks so much for all your help. I'm sure there are a lot of other guys out there learning from this too!

 

[devilman96]

Ken can you scan and post the prints please... Its one more delay in the build but living south I think the hurricane bug out vehicle should have all of the housings done like Lax is asking about... Thanks

 

[rdixiemiller]

If you keep positive pressure on the diffs all the time, you will end up pushing gear lube through the seals.

 

[ken]

Sorry, Lax. I wasen't very clear about the regulator routing. The regulator is used to provide positive pressure to the bellhousing. This keeps water out of the clutch. It's set at 4 PSI. I don't know where you could get one, but i think a propane regulator will do. They are set at 7PSI. The kit takes air from the line under the dash. It uses the same fittings where the air pressure guage, and airshift transfercase valve tie into the compressors air. The kit uses a flapper valve, just like the one for the airshift transfercase (the older ones use a hand pulled valve) to supply air to the regulator. From the regulator it runs 1/4 tubing to the clutch bellhousing. Before you enter the water you need to remove the plug from it's storage location. It's at the bottom of the clutch's bellhousing. Then pulg the hole right next to it. Then when you throw the valve the bellhousing is under positive pressure.
The hose you need for the airfilter canister is routed from the small fitting on the filter's canister to the air intake on the trucks air compressor. This keeps the air compressor from sucking up water. The air intake mushroom is also removed and a snorkle is installed. You'll also need a hose going from the crankcase blowby tube that crosses the turbo up to the top of the snorkle. This keeps water from entering the engine.
As far as the axles and gear boxes go. Run at least 3/8 hose/ tubing to the highest point. I've tried pressurizing the axles and gear boxes but the aircompressor doesen't have enough CFM of air to keep the pressure atleast 60PSI. On the axles and gear boxes there is oneway valves that are sopposed to let pressure out but not back in.
They are a joke. Not one of mine worked that way.I tested them by blowing air my mouth both ways and air flowed freely. So i discarded ALL of them and plumbed them with hose/tubing.
Dman. I strongly sudjest a hardtop if you don't already have one. The soft top just doesen't cut it in high wind and driving rain. I had one of our EMT's in the cab during TS allison and her main job was to keep pushing the soft top up to keep the water off enough so it didn't cave in on our heads.
Oh yea, Make sure the gaskets on the fuel cap and the top of valve cover are in good shape. Water will enter though there if it's allowed.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Mike, cranetruck has his diffs plumbed into his fording regulator. That regulator is probably the only hard part to find and I'll bet money there is something similar to it in the commercial world. Ken, as far as the soft tops, do you have the 3 support rods that go from the frame to the windshiled frame? I've had my tractor through 3 hurricanes and never had any kind of problem like that. A few squirts around the windshield and top corners of the top but nothing that ever was a real problem.

 

[ken]

Kenny, Yea i've got those 3 rods. And the top still sagged so bad i thought it was going to tear. The rain gage at the fire station said we got 33 inches of rain that night. I had the truck in water up to the hood for hours on the beltway getting people out. The rag tops are cooler and they sure look alot better to me. I've still got my canvas top but i rarely use it anymore.

 

[jwaller]

could somebody please post the pics of the blueprints for this kit!!! I wanna make my own or as much of it as I can. will this $50 kit you recieved from boyce fit the M35?