deuce 12v conversion

[6x6TRex]

To everyone else in this thread emergency lights and (mainly the) siren draw a lot of amps so the normal 720W converter everyone has isn't big enough. Just my siren alone can draw up to almost 200A according to the specs. Which is why (incorrectly IMO) he converted the truck to 12V when he should of just added a second 12V alternator.

 

[tm america]

Working fine as in you replaced it with a 12V pump? Or working fine as in you just hooked the stock in tank pump up to 12V and its barely pumping fuel if any?

I don't mean to be rude but you do know you now have way under 220A for your lights and siren now that the ENTIRE truck is 12V now right? Instead of adding a 2nd 200A alternator and a 3rd battery to run just the lights and leaving the truck 24V, ALL of your load is now drawing from the 12V alternator; starter, headlights/taillights, turn signals, heater, gauges, it all adds up!

The reason I'm saying that is I'm going to become a volunteer firefighter next year and am going to do the same thing to my deuce when I get one. Without having to convert the truck to 12V!

Tm-america makes a really nice 2nd alternator bracket for the multifuel. A 200A delco 10si alternator plus a 1000 CCA group 31 battery will be more than enough capacity for lights and a siren. Plus everything else on the truck is stock for ease of parts availability, who's going to have a 12V multifuel starter on the shelf?

I agree fully .One of the reasons the military went with 24 volt systems is because thing draw twice as much amps on 12 volts to do the same work they would have on 24 volts.The alt he installed to run the truck on 12 volts could have been installed with my kit and retained the 24 volt system to run the starter,lights,heater,fuel pump,and other much needed items .This also would have given him more available amps to use from the 12 volt system as he would not be drawing the power for the things needed to run the truck..Also it would have givin him a fail safe to be able to run the 12 volt stuff even when the truck is off and not have to worry about whether the truck will start or not?

 

[trukhead]

If I were doing what you were doing at least double the gauge between the batteries and grounds and batteries and the starter to carry the current to get it the engine spinning. Cold diesels don't want to start but spinning them fast helps getting them started.
My A3 had 2 big brown clunky military batteries in it and they were pooping out. I found 2 brand new 31-4 or 34-1 semi truck batteries brand new (1000 CCA) for $177 for the pair brand new. They don't fit in the plastic box in the battery compartment but I am fabricating a battery tray with all mounting points and attachment points to accommodate them and an additional 12 volt battery. The two new batteries zing the cat engine over so fast I'm amazed. The new batteries have a smaller footprint but are a smidge longer, I might be able to stuff four in the battery box if the tray is big enough. I don't know, I've got the 2 stuffed in the plastic box, bulging it so I gotta make the tray one of these days.
If I were doing what you were doing at least double the gauge between the batteries and grounds and batteries and the starter to carry the current to get it the engine spinning.

 

[trukhead]

My suggestion echos with some of the others. Put the 24 volt system back in, and install a seperate 12 volt system. Numerous guys and FD's have installed this addition to the Deuce with great results. The system requires a one wire alternator (Delco SI), some bracketry, a belt, and a serparate 12 volt battery. A few Members here sell the kits to do this, super simple. TMAmerica is one that comes to mind. Quit fooling around with trying to convert, and install this, you'll be further ahead in the long run. See if you can't clean up the parts you've purchased, and return them. Lick your wounds and then do it right. Just my .

Will a chassis ground work with the one wire 12 volt alternator and wiring or do I need and isolated ground and wiring for the 12 volt system?
If one grounds the 12 volt system to the chassis, doesn't the 24 volt system influence the 12 volt system?opcorn:

 

[Cleveland Iron]

12V - 24V - 24V & 12V... Ground is ground. Alternators are naturally grounded to the chassis. ( At least I've never seen one that isn't. )

As for the 24V influencing the 12V system... Generally no. The special cases that occur to me are where you have a common battery shared by both the 12V and the 24V system. They include things like engine start which will draw to voltage down in both systems or a battery maintainer which may be very noisy electrically or possibly an electically noisy motor or relay.

A separate 12V battery with it's own alternator circuit would pretty much act like the 24V system didn't even exist. ( Unless you find some perverted piece of equipment that used both the 12V and the 24V system at the same time. )

You have to remember much of the electronics in the world run quite well on multiple voltages. Look at a computer. The modern processor wants 3.3V. The memory maybe 3.3 or 5V. The CD/DVD drive wants 5V and 12V. Some of the hard drives require both 5V and 12V. Tube equipment is a complete crap-shoot with the different needs for filament and plate voltages... The point is multiple voltage systems have been around as long as there have been electronics and are VERY well understood.

This group happens to know the needs of MVs.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

November 16th, 2012.

I still hope that truck is NEVER shut down in -30*F weather away from the fire hall for long, as I still figure our OP has a very underpowered (electrically) speaking truck, considering what he/they intend to use it for. The other interesting thing in all this, is that most VFD's in the east are dumping deuces left and right as they have some very interesting behavior traits when used as brush trucks (their usual employment), such as the parking brakes will not and cannot hold a deuce with 800 or even 500 gallons of water sloshing in the tank.... Several have been lost over the hill for just that reason....

I wish the man luck, but you couldn't give me a deuce that has been altered in such a way, they are indeed non-standard in every sense of the word, and likely not reliable workers.
IMHOP from long experience with the trucks clear back to M135/211 GMC's.

 

[steelandcanvas]

The fuel pump is working just fine. I have been talking to a local truck refub center on dueces,5 tons,humvees,and all other military stuff. They told me about most of the stuff that i have done. Just ready to get this truck painted and finshed. I want to have it for our fire department so we can use it.

Be sure and let us know how that works out for you. Did you take any photos of your work?

 

[Rambling Wreck]

I would really like to see some photos as well.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I wonder how Rob's volunteer firetruck turned out?

 

[kdrambo]

Hi guys, I'm not a 2 1/2 ton guy, but I am interested in a 12 volt system for my HMMWV. As I am a ham operator and do work as a radio operator for the Red Cross, the 2d alternator and battery sounds to be cheaper than a new 12/24 volt alternator as well as "keeping everything standard". I would just like to be sure adding the 2d alternator is just a straight forward 'no sugar added' parts addition. thanks

 

[steelandcanvas]

You can also look into a 24 VDC to 12 VDC converter. There maybe one in the classifieds here or on the big, dumb auction site.

 

[rustystud]

Hi guys, I'm not a 2 1/2 ton guy, but I am interested in a 12 volt system for my HMMWV. As I am a ham operator and do work as a radio operator for the Red Cross, the 2d alternator and battery sounds to be cheaper than a new 12/24 volt alternator as well as "keeping everything standard". I would just like to be sure adding the 2d alternator is just a straight forward 'no sugar added' parts addition. thanks

I would just get a "Vanner" control unit. That way you would have your 24 volt batteries charged right and have 12 volt for your radio. I have installed a 12 volt alternator system in my deuce, but it can get quite complicated. Of course I went with relay's to control everything along with circuit breakers. Just got caught-up in the madness !

 

[fireman5199]

I wonder how Rob's volunteer firetruck turned out?

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Lavalette-Volunteer-Fire-Department/146231142058586

I am thinking that is it in the cover photo?

 

[Jeepsinker]

You should be able to get an alternator for your HMMWV that puts out both 12v and 24v from two separate sets of terminals on the case. That is probably your best bet.

 

[RobDuece]

This truck turned out great and is working for my department perfect. It now has 2 radios, siren, fog lights, in cab lighting, and lots of LEDS. We have now installed fog lights and will be installing a gas transfer pump.
We have a second project we are working on a 86 drop side with a 500 gallon tank. This truck now has a portable pump and 2 attack lines for forest fires. This truck will have a stand alone 12 volt add on system. This system will run the light bar, radio and siren. We acquired some 24 volt scene lights for the truck too.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I'm glad to hear you're putting a separate 12 volt system in your new acquisition. No need to re-invent the wheel if you don't have to.

 

[RobDuece]

I put the 12v conversion on the first one because we own it and had to much 12v stuff to use on it. The second one is on loan to us so we wanted stuff that could be removed easily. They both will and have been a great asset to our department.

 

[hufficon]

Just ran across this thread so I thought I would throw in me 2 cents. We ran M211s and M135s for years when I was on the FD. We didn't change a thing from the original 24V electrical system. We just wired the 12 accessory's we added to one battery. Siren, radio, and lots of lights. I know it was an unbalanced load on the batteries but we ran it for years. Went through more 3rd members than batteries. I could never convince them to keep the tires equal!

 

[RobDuece]

Hey its been awhile since i responded to this thread. The truck worked out great as a 12 volt truck. The biggest reason we converted it was a $2000.oo light bar got donated that was 12v, also we had 2 radios, a siren and all the other lights we put on the truck and we own this truck. The amps we need to run all this stuff facilitated that change from 24 to 12. I did have to change light bulbs and the senders to do with fuel, oil pressure, water temp, and volt meter.

I more recently did another duece we have on loan from WV forestry. This truck need a 12v system but where we could remove everything if the state wanted the truck back. This tuck has a 24v system and a 12 v system. this works great i utilized both system in building the truck. The 24v runs the truck and 8 lights. The 12v system runs the radio, siren, light bar, other warning lights, and the hose reel.

I got both the conversion systems from wolverine technology. Each system works perfectly. The easiest way to run a 12v add on is to run the alternator to an additional battery and then come off it to a master switch then back to a fuse panel to be able to cut off power to your 12v stuff.

If any one has any question if it works or how to do it give me a yell.

 

[ralph3162]

Nope already did mine works great LOL

Hey its been awhile since i responded to this thread. The truck worked out great as a 12 volt truck. The biggest reason we converted it was a $2000.oo light bar got donated that was 12v, also we had 2 radios, a siren and all the other lights we put on the truck and we own this truck. The amps we need to run all this stuff facilitated that change from 24 to 12. I did have to change light bulbs and the senders to do with fuel, oil pressure, water temp, and volt meter.

I more recently did another duece we have on loan from WV forestry. This truck need a 12v system but where we could remove everything if the state wanted the truck back. This tuck has a 24v system and a 12 v system. this works great i utilized both system in building the truck. The 24v runs the truck and 8 lights. The 12v system runs the radio, siren, light bar, other warning lights, and the hose reel.

I got both the conversion systems from wolverine technology. Each system works perfectly. The easiest way to run a 12v add on is to run the alternator to an additional battery and then come off it to a master switch then back to a fuse panel to be able to cut off power to your 12v stuff.

If any one has any question if it works or how to do it give me a yell.