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deuce airpack/master cylinder rebuild

LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B

LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B

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Ok fellas going to start my airpack and master cylinder rebuild today.I will make a video I also need to know if red hightemp grease is ok on air side of the pack the military had same grease as my bearings in air cylinder .
 
Lieutenant Dan

Lieutenant Dan

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I'm going to be rebuilding mine soon. I'm going to start with master cylinder cause I think that's the problem. Everything is wet and I think it's dripping down onto the air pack.
 
LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B

LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B

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I have searched for hours on the grease in airpack some have it some dont will red hightemp lithium grease be ok I search the ingredients and from what I found wouldn't harm the rubber. please will someone help answer this.
 
welldigger

welldigger

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I'm not understanding the need for grease in an airpak. The long style needs periodic lubrication with air tool oil or a really light weight hydraulic oil. I forget specifically what it was called. I don't believe the short style even requires lubrication in the air end. After gutting a short style I came to the conclusion that they designed it to function with no lube. Unlike the long style they did not design in a provision for lubrication. There is also no wiper to distribute lubricant through the full circumstance of the air cylinder.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see how it is needed.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B said:
I have searched for hours on the grease in airpack some have it some dont will red hightemp lithium grease be ok I search the ingredients and from what I found wouldn't harm the rubber. please will someone help answer this.
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There are two types I use. One is the recommended grease of "Bendix". It is made by "Dow Corning" and called 'MolyKote 111' . The second one, and the one I prefer is "Super Lube Synthetic Grease". I apply a thin layer to ALL exposed metal surfaces.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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welldigger said:
I'm not understanding the need for grease in an airpak. The long style needs periodic lubrication with air tool oil or a really light weight hydraulic oil. I forget specifically what it was called. I don't believe the short style even requires lubrication in the air end. After gutting a short style I came to the conclusion that they designed it to function with no lube. Unlike the long style they did not design in a provision for lubrication. There is also no wiper to distribute lubricant through the full circumstance of the air cylinder.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see how it is needed.
Click to expand...
All air valves and air operated components need grease. Remember when you compress air you will get water. I don't care how much you filter it you will get water. That is why ALL manufactures of air components use grease. Don't believe me ? Go and buy a simple air check valve and take it apart, you will find grease put there by the manufacturer. When you compress air you get water, add that Oxygen and water to metal and you get rust on steel or corrosion on aluminium. In all my years working on trucks and now busses I have never found a air component that did not use grease. Now you must use the correct grease. The ones I use are "MolyKote 111" and "Super Lube Synthetic Grease".
 
swbradley1

swbradley1

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rustystud said:
Remember when you compress air you will get water. I don't care how much you filter it you will get water.
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Interesting. You can filter it all out otherwise SCUBA tanks would corrode on the inside and remove the oxygen. I know since I used to fill tanks and I have one right now with 18 year old air in it and I will bet no corrosion.
 
welldigger

welldigger

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I'm still at a loss here as to what exactly should be greased in an air pack. The only 2 moving parts in the air side is the valve that senses when brake pressure is applied and then sends air to the air piston. I'm no expert in pneumatics but I would think greasing the valve would possibly cause it to stick as the grease ages and cause a build up of crud on the valve over time. A couple of strokes of the air piston would push grease to each end of the cylinder. Then it would be doing nothing.

Again, I could very well be wrong. I'm just needing a better explanation of what to grease and why.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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swbradley1 said:
Interesting. You can filter it all out otherwise SCUBA tanks would corrode on the inside and remove the oxygen. I know since I used to fill tanks and I have one right now with 18 year old air in it and I will bet no corrosion.
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I'm also a "PADI" certified diver and if you ever had used steel tanks you'll know what I mean.
 
peashooter

peashooter

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welldigger said:
I'm still at a loss here as to what exactly should be greased in an air pack. The only 2 moving parts in the air side is the valve that senses when brake pressure is applied and then sends air to the air piston. I'm no expert in pneumatics but I would think greasing the valve would possibly cause it to stick as the grease ages and cause a build up of crud on the valve over time. A couple of strokes of the air piston would push grease to each end of the cylinder. Then it would be doing nothing.

Again, I could very well be wrong. I'm just needing a better explanation of what to grease and why.
Click to expand...
We use the Dow Corning Molykoat stuff at work on pneumatic cylinders systems that we make,modify, or rebuild. Since a lot of pneumatic systems dont/cant have inline oilers, its important to have some type of lubricant for the rubber seals to prevent wear and "condition" them. Lots of petroleum based oils will attack many common rubbers and cause them to overswell and breakdown quickly, so you definately want to use the right lubricant on seals especially if you dont know what the material is. The Molykoat description on my favorite website (mcmaster.com) says: "Apply directly to O-rings to prevent drying and cracking, which will extend O-ring service life".
 

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rustystud

rustystud

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Did you read the manual I uploaded ? It should cover everything on rebuilding the air-pacs. It should still be in the Download section for the M35 . On the parts that are exposed to brake fluid you just lubricate with brake fluid. On the parts on the air side you should use one of the greases I previously mentioned. Lube all exposed metal ! with at least a film coat. This will prevent rust from forming especially on the air can and apply rod.
 
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