Deuce Front Fenders, Boots and Turbo

[plym49]

My front boots are ready to be replaced and both front fenders, especially the driver's side, had significant rust. I also have a C turbo sitting on the bench.

I have two new fenders that I picked up a while ago. While they are not pristine they are way better than what is on the truck now.

I also figure that it would be easier to change the boots and turbo with the fenders off.

Today I pulled the driver's fender off. It was a real PITA due to many rusted fasteners. The cab also has some rust in the area of the toe board, where the lower fender attaches.

Here are some pictures. I have a lot of questions and could use some advice, so please keep tuned to this thread.





To kick things off, how do you guys work on the IP without pulling he fender? I don't see how you can get in there to work or look in sideways to see those little red marks to set the timing.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Looks like you got a bit of work ahead of ya. To be honest, I clicked your thread, because I thought it was a for sale post from the title of the thread "Deuce Front Fenders, Boots and Turbo"...my bad, carry on. lol

 

[plym49]

Sorry about that! I will try and edit the thread title.

Yes, a lot of work. For me, not compared to some of the builds you all do. I am already wondering if I will have to lift the passenger side fender way up in the air to clear the exhaust pipe.

 

[welldigger]

I just replaced the o-rings on my HH. I used a mirror to see the pointer and red tooth through the fuel shut off cover. It wasn't too bad of a job. Let me know if you need the o-rings.

 

[plym49]

I just replaced the o-rings on my HH. I used a mirror to see the pointer and red tooth through the fuel shut off cover. It wasn't too bad of a job. Let me know if you need the o-rings.

I guess you guys are more limber than I am. I already bought a set of HH o-rings 'just in case', thanks.

One question I have is 'what is this thing'? It seems to be a heavy blind box section. The three bolts that affix the lower rear section of the fender to the cab thread into nutserts in this box section. What is the purpose of this piece? Flux condensor?

You can see it as the dark box in the upper middle of the first photo, and it is behind this cab sheetmetal in the second.

 

[welldigger]

If you have the o-rings and the fender off I would suggest replacing them. Its really not as bad or as scary as it might seem. Don't be like me and check your oil to discover your 5 quarts high. If you do change them don't forget to change the fuel control rod o-ring.

As far as the little box on the cab, the best guess I have is cab reinforcement. It also loves to collect water and rust.

 

[plym49]

If you have the o-rings and the fender off I would suggest replacing them. Its really not as bad or as scary as it might seem. Don't be like me and check your oil to discover your 5 quarts high. If you do change them don't forget to change the fuel control rod o-ring.

As far as the little box on the cab, the best guess I have is cab reinforcement. It also loves to collect water and rust.

I can't for the life of me figure out why they would mount a heavy, blind box there. It does not seem to serve any purpose other than, as you say, to annoy.

As far as the orings for the HH goes, I am concerned enough about being able to change the boots without diving into the HH. I know, all you guys have done it. Does changing the orings change the timing? My motor runs perfectly as is and I do not want to mess it up.

 

[welldigger]

The boots are honestly a bigger pita then the o-rings were. No, when you line up the red tooth or scribed tooth, depending on what you have, that is the only way the HH head will come out or go back in. The HH will either slip right out or it won't. Same thing for putting it back in. Just don't force anything.

As far as the boots are you going to get zippered ones or one piece boots?

 

[plym49]

The boots are honestly a bigger pita then the o-rings were. No, when you line up the red tooth or scribed tooth, depending on what you have, that is the only way the HH head will come out or go back in. The HH will either slip right out or it won't. Same thing for putting it back in. Just don't force anything.

As far as the boots are you going to get zippered ones or one piece boots?

Zippered. Bought them a while ago. Wondering if the job would be easier if I pull the front wheels.

 

[welldigger]

Yes it is easier to change them with the wheels off.

 

[Chevracer87]

I guess you guys are more limber than I am. I already bought a set of HH o-rings 'just in case', thanks.

One question I have is 'what is this thing'? It seems to be a heavy blind box section. The three bolts that affix the lower rear section of the fender to the cab thread into nutserts in this box section. What is the purpose of this piece? Flux condensor?

You can see it as the dark box in the upper middle of the first photo, and it is behind this cab sheetmetal in the second.
View attachment 438414View attachment 438413

I believe that's the hi/low switch for your headlights. Look in the cab and see if it lines up.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I believe that's the hi/low switch for your headlights. Look in the cab and see if it lines up.

Yup, you are correct. It is a protective box to keep mud/grime out.

 

[plym49]

Yup, you are correct. It is a protective box to keep mud/grime out.

I am talking about the other box - more oblong and darker - oriented vertically - that is right up against the side of the cab where the fender attaches. It seems to be a blind box and it has three nutserts. In the other photo, you see the face of the cab and one of the three nutserts is stripped out due to rust.

 

[Chevracer87]

I am talking about the other box - more oblong and darker - oriented vertically - that is right up against the side of the cab where the fender attaches. It seems to be a blind box and it has three nutserts. In the other photo, you see the face of the cab and one of the three nutserts is stripped out due to rust.

If I remember correctly you can open up the vent and reach down in and get to those nutserts. When I repaired that area on mine I pried out the bad nutserts and used new nuts

 

[plym49]

If I remember correctly you can open up the vent and reach down in and get to those nutserts. When I repaired that area on mine I pried out the bad nutserts and used new nuts

That's funny; mine is different. The box is below the toeboard/floor. You can only see it from under the truck. There does not seem to be any way to open it.

 

[Chevracer87]

That's funny; mine is different. The box is below the toeboard/floor. You can only see it from under the truck. There does not seem to be any way to open it.

I dug out some pictures to show you what it looks like inside and how I had to repair mine. Yours looks to be in much better condition though.

 

[plym49]

Nice repair. Here are some better photos of the box section on my truck:

(#1: Dimmer switch box on the left. Mystery box on the right. #2: Sits at a 45 degree angle and this is the driver's side. #3: What purpose does this serve? Why was it built in?)



Edit: Maybe this just strengthens that area of the cab structure?

 

[welldigger]

Like I said, it loves to collect water. Which causes rust. The driver side one on my truck is in decent shape. The passenger side is pretty rough. Nice repair chevracer. I'll be doing the same on my truck before too many more months pass by.

 

[steelandcanvas]

That little box is for the same reason as the square holes in the M105 trailer...just to drive us nuts and make us ask questions. You have your work cut out for you John, it will keep you out of trouble for awhile.

 

[rosco]

While your at this.... On your 1st post, picture #2, those wires should have something shielding them from constant jiggles on the frame. Otherwise after a while of rubbing, the smoke might leak out of them. There can be a lot of smoike too, in 24V wires.