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deuce smoking like a freight train

SMOKEWAGON66

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In general, it the main fuel stop screw should be REDUCED roughly 13 flats when the FDC is bypassed.
Ok..so you have to reduce it by 13 flats...Ive read all these threads about turning up or down the fuel setting, but can anyone here tell me just how many flats should be showing for the stock setting? Im not asking how many up or down I have to turn it, but how many flats are showing....anyone? I want to set mine to stock and see what happens and then turn it up so I would at least know mine was turned up from stock, and not turned up from a turned up setting.

As for the OP...Id say it does look it might just be turned up too high. Would be my guess anyhow.
 

LowTech

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Here is something that I saved once,
"The FDC is basically a movable stop for the fuel pedal. When you are running a thin fuel, such as gasoline, the stop moves to allow full pedal, and maximum fuel. When you are running a thick fuel, such as WMO, the stop moves to reduce the maximum pedal motion. The idea is the FDC controls the engine so that you get the same maximum horsepower for any fuel.

If you bypass the fuel flow through the FDC, the FDC will act as if it has a very very thin fuel, and will put the stop in the maximum fuel position.... just like it would for gasoline. If you then use some fuel other than gasoline, the injection pump (IP) will be capable of seriously over fueling the engine... lots of black smoke, lots of power, and lots of heat (Can you say meltdown? Sure you can!).

If you are a really disciplined driver, you could bypass the FDC, and drive with diesel fuel, by never going to full pedal... never letting the engine smoke much... I doubt that anyone is that disciplined.

There is a formula method for getting close to the correct fuel adjustment when the FDC is bypassed. That method is to adjust the nut on the compensator stop plate screw (smoke limit) 12 to 16 nut flats (sixths of a turn) clockwise (in the increase fuel direction), and to adjust the droop screw 1 to 2 turns clockwise(in the decrease fuel direction).

[For the stop plate, do not try to turn the threaded shaft. The outer nut is a jamb nut, and the inner nut is the adjustment. Count the nut flats as they pass by until you get to 12... your engine may be happy there, or may need a little more juice, up to 16 nut flats.]

The droop screw adjustment is hard to get at. It is part of the governor's fulcrum and is under the governor cover. It should only exist on the E type injection pumps on the turbo'd engines (I think). When you remove the FDC action, and adjust the smoke limit to compensate, it affects the governor action, requiring the droop re-adjustment for proper idle operation. Most folks that bypass their FDC's skip this step, and sometimes get problems with starting, and idling.

You should get TM9-2910-226-34 from the resources pages of this site before you touch anything!

-Chuck "

And this,
 

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tiny110

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Location
Orange,TEXAS
Smoke what smoke? My truck smokes more than that. The name on my truck says route but it's nickname is Blackout. :cool: I have found that burning oil actually makes the truck smoke less. So the increase in smoking that you are talking about maybe the diesel that you put in it. I just trying to be courteous and anytime I see someone with their windows down or walking along the side of the road I'll let up of throttle.
 

Stretch44875

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I'd be worried about the oily film on the turbo, sounds like a bad seal in the turbo is allowing oil to be sucked in. That would cause some smoke.

If the fuel was turned up enough to cause that smoke, it would run like a scalded dog. When tuning the fuel rate I got it too high at one point, and that truck was a rocket.

My truck is running 100% oil for fuel, and it blows black smoke under load, just not anywhere near as much as yours. At idle it has a slight blue tinge.
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
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Location
Kansas City, MO
Since replacing my fuel filters my LDS is like a rocket. Way more than usual. I think a pyrometers and adjusting the fuel needs to be a priority. My FDC is bypassed.
 

0311DAD

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Location
Roxboro, nc
i backed the nut off 14 flats and the smoke cleared up completely. but the truck was very sluggish. added 4 more flats, now i have decent power and a little smoke. i will leave it there until i can get a pyro.
 

RIDDLE1

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Location
Americus GA
i backed the nut off 14 flats and the smoke cleared up completely. but the truck was very sluggish. added 4 more flats, now i have decent power and a little smoke. i will leave it there until i can get a pyro.
Glad you got it fixed! I figured it was dumping to much fuel.
 

crazywelder72

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Winchester Ma
I have been looking for quite a while. I decided to go a bit on the wild side so i just bought this one today. I can say that i had awesome communication with the seller and if i decide to get another i will buy from him also. I am actually thinking of buying a water temp gauge the same style. mine is not working and i dont know if its the gauge or the sender but i can have a whole new set for a decent Price.

check out glowshift_outlet on that big E auction site.
 

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Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
I installed my pyro today. With the LDS on a steep grade and my foot to the floor it only got up to 1250 degrees. It has as much power as ever. A few of us guessed that with the LDS's higher air intake the egt's are lower. The higher airflow compensates for the higher amount of fuel being burned.
 

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