DEUCE spin on oil filters!!!!

[oifvet]

Great info, cool link. (Doesn't mention cost anywhere that I could see). It is interesting.

I think I could take Mr. Micron! And, the army he rides in on!

I still need some education on the whole, "5 micron filtration is a better installation and investment for an old multi-fuel than a 15 micron filter system because, _________."

 

[n1vbn]

OK Guys,

You REALLY want to clean your oil? Here is the easiest way to do it with one small addition to the engine. It will cost more than a few dinero but you will learn to love it. The road truck I drove for one full year used a factory installation Mack engines have all
been equipped with factory centrifuges mounted outboard of the two oil filters and when serviced I ran no BS 62,000 miles between oil changes and was only down 2 quarts of oil when it was drained. The centrifuge keeps all heavy particulates out of the oil. The particulates are what lifts the oil wiper ring on the piston and lets oil into the combustion chamber to burn. Read the testimonials and decide for yourself.





http://www.dieselcraft.com/

A tested a proven centrifuge that mounts under the hood of your truck...holds up to 10.5 ounces of dirt and continuously cleans the motor oil down to
1/10th of a micron. Use the cheaper oil filers and this centrifuge will keep the crud out and is very easy to service.

Only cross to bear is the cost to buy it. When I get my Deuce it WILL have one installed.

I am including a forum where the guys are using this centrifuge to clean WASTE VEGETABLE OIL before using it as fuel.




Cranetruck take note!!

Why screw around with filters when the system is now complete....screw on adapters for the oil filters and one installed centrifuge to remove the crud
and make the engine clean as you want inside.


Keep em movin'

Here is the link to the centrifuge forum I forgot to include.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/2001011761

 

[oifvet]

Reviving an old thread!

Could/would a knowledgable member please explain a little more about the significance of "5 or 6," vs. "15 & up", micron filters?

I know 5 < 15!!! I don't mean that. What I'd like to know is, how critical is it with a 30(+) year old Hercules Multi-fuel enginel? Are we comparing gravel to talcum powder? Or is 5 & 6 micron filtration for motor oil in a deuce getting a little anal?

And..., what is a micron. How big is this guy? Could I take him?

Thanks in advance! Now standing-by.

Just bumping my original question before it gets buried under the centrifuge thing, which is nice, but not what I am looking for right now.

 

[cranetruck]

When it comes to micron ratings of filters, you have to consider things like pressure drop (higher for finer filters) and also more frequent filter changes for 5 or 10 micron filters than the original 20-25 micron ones.
There is also chances that a 20 micron filter at a lower pressure will be as good as a 10 micron filter at a higher pressure. You have to study filter specifications and pressure vs efficiency graphs. Devilman (Mike) has this down pat and posted some interesting facts a couple of years ago.

A 1 micron filter will filter out some bacteria and that may be beyond the call of duty.

A bypass filter with a fine rating (5 to 10 micron) is the way to go if you want clean oil and not have to worry about clogging any filters in the main oil stream.

 

[oifvet]

Thanks cranetruck!

The jatonka set-up uses a 15 micron. It sounds like that will suffice, especially if I'm an occasional driver doing frequent oil changes, and not operating in an extemely dirty environment.

 

[FreightTrain]

Smaller the Micron the cleaner the oil.Cleaner the oil the less damge and wear the bearing gets when they are oiled.Fine particles will hone and wear on the bearings.Smaller the particles less the wear will be.Like taking a piece of 60 grit sand paper and hitting a peice of metal.The a 500 grit and hiting a pice beside it.You remove MUCH more metal with the larger grit.

 

[Bigmillman]

Hey, I would like a pm on those adapters too. Very nice.

 

[Bigmillman]

Yes, i do agree with OVER filtering and pressure drop. My drag engine days proved real quick that you can have great intentions with super clean oil, just don't comprimise oil pressure to do it. Low pressure= bad jujus.

 

[Offroadfabworks]

When it comes to micron ratings of filters, you have to consider things like pressure drop (higher for finer filters) and also more frequent filter changes for 5 or 10 micron filters than the original 20-25 micron ones.
There is also chances that a 20 micron filter at a lower pressure will be as good as a 10 micron filter at a higher pressure. You have to study filter specifications and pressure vs efficiency graphs. Devilman (Mike) has this down pat and posted some interesting facts a couple of years ago.

A 1 micron filter will filter out some bacteria and that may be beyond the call of duty.

A bypass filter with a fine rating (5 to 10 micron) is the way to go if you want clean oil and not have to worry about clogging any filters in the main oil stream.

i went with and got the www.odiron.com set up. For that reason. It filters it down alot more. it goes clear down to 5 micron vs jatonkas goes to about 15 micron. i got a brand new fresh rebuilts motor in mine. i wanted to make sure that it got the most filtered out of it

 

[bottleworks]

I went with and got the www.odiron.com set up. For that reason. It filters it down alot more. I wanted to make sure that it got the most filtered out of it.

Good choice. The OD Iron system works great!

 

[Bigmillman]

I don't know. I think OD Iron is great. However, my wooden shoes and I are investigating an alternative budgit minded version. Maybe I come up all thumbs... I will post when I give up or when I find something. I just want something whereas I don't get a bath changing my filters and I get spin-on ease-of-use. the two systems used on this post are of great quality and look like alot of thought went into each one. Thanks to each for your commitment to our hobby!

 

[Bigmillman]

Well, so far it looks like OD Iron and Jatonka are hard to beat.The multifuel engine oil ports are just about a pain in the .. to tap into to use a universal filter setup. I am throwing in the towel.I am giving up trying to reinvent the wheel.
So...
Jatonka is the simplist. OD Iron lets you put the filters wherever you desire and right side up for a cleaner oil change. I would say as long as you use the correct hose like Goodyear Ortac for OD Iron's, they both are equal in pros and cons. When I do mine... Ah heck.. who knows.

 

[oifvet]

To what "micron" do the "Luber-Finer" filters that are replacement for the multi-fuel engine, filter down to?

 

[OPCOM]

I used NAPA 1970XE filters, provided in a kit from Builder77. I don't know if he is still making the kits. These are big, tall filters, each with a flow rating enough for the engine, and combining this high flow rate with the 5 micron rating seemed a wise choice at the time. There have been no issues and I have put about 6000 miles on the truck since.

5 Micron; This Is The High Efficiency Version Of The 1970 - Uses Glass Media
Attributes
Oil Filter Height (Inches) : 9.748
Oil Filter Style : Spin-On Lube
Oil Filter Thread Size (inches) : 1 1/2-12
Flow Rate : 28 To 30 GPM
Gasket I.D. (Inches) : 3.8
Gasket I.D. (mm) : 96.52mm
Media Type : Wire Backed Glass
Oil Filter Gasket O.D. (Inches) : 4.32
Oil Filter Gasket O.D. (mm) : 109.73mm
Oil Filter Gasket Thickness (Inches) : 0.345
Oil Filter Gasket Thickness (mm) : 8.76mm
Oil Filter Height (mm) : 247.6mm
Oil Filter O.D. (Inches) : 4.661
Oil Filter O.D. (mm) : 118.39mm

 

[joesco]

I have seen centrifuges selling on ebay for $200 - $2500. I like the idea, but is it overkill for a daily driver that will clock less than 10k miles per year?

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I just got back from an 85 mile run. During the trip I paid close attention to the oil pressure. Here is what I found

First, a little background. I'm running biulder77s 1970XE spin-on filters. I have three oil gauges. One guage reads between the oil pump and the filters. One reads immediately after the filters and the third reads at the end of the galley. The ambient temperature was only about 60 degrees today so with the water pump fan installed for the summer, the engine only got up to around 170 degrees. At 170 water temp the oil temperature was 180. With under 500 miles on the break-in oil I can't imagine the filters being dirty.

At 2,100 PRM the oil gauge between the oil pump and the filters indicated around 72 PSI. At this same RPM, the gauge immediately after the filters indicated around 59 psi and the gauge at the end of the galley (turbo) indicated around 55 PSI.

I'm told the oil filter bypass valve opens when the pre and post filter pressure rises over 15 psi.At a 13 PSI differential I'm close. I'm considering shimming the bypass valve spring to raise the pressure before valve bypasses the filters BUT --- on cold mornings the differential pressure can go over 25 PSI. By that, I mean on a cold morning the pre filter pressure can go up to 95 PSI and the post filter pressure can be 80.

Do you think I should tinker with the bypass spring tension or leave well enough alone. Thinking out loud --- what would be the worst that could happen if I shimed the bypass valve and over did it? would a filter let lose on a cold morning?

To Shim, or Not To Shim --- that is the question.

 

[Jake0147]

On a good cold morning with good cold oil, how much pressure differential will it take to tear the element in the filter? That'll be my first concern. Another thought, the volume of oil passing the filters is very large. The bypass valve does not bypass all of the oil, just a percentage. There's a lot of filter area there, I don't have measurements, but I do believe that the actual volume being bypassed in order to maintain the desired pressure drop is absolutely minimal. So filtration is not lost at this point. Kind of like a bypass filter works, it only gets a small bit of the total flow, but it still makes all of the oil look awful nice. OTR truckers routinely get a million miles out of an engine with less filtration than your truck. A million miles on an engine with oil coming out of their filters that's dirtier than what's going into your filters. With that in mind, I understand that you're looking for the best and most complete filtration, but at what risk. Damaging (rupturing) the element in any given filter from too much pressure differential just one time, just one filter that wasn't quite glued as tight... And of course that would be after it had collected a bunch of stuff to make it a little less free flowing, imagine all that trash getting let loose in one single shot, so even staring right at the gauges, by the time your two gauges equalized the one filter would already be "flushed"... IMHO that one incident would probably set you back a lot further than if you found a way to perform a dozen oil bypassing cold start and warmup cycless on each and every morning that you drove the truck. YMMV, but that's just my thoughts.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

You have pretty much confirmed my fears and thoughts. Like you said, I don't think a lot of oil, if any, is bypassing the filters.

I agree with the filter blowout scenario. I guess I just needed to hear someone confirm it.

I'm going to leave the bypass valve alone.


Thanks,

 

[cranetruck]

.....
At 2,100 PRM the oil gauge between the oil pump and the filters indicated around 72 PSI. At this same RPM, the gauge immediately after the filters indicated around 59 psi and the gauge at the end of the galley (turbo) indicated around 55 PSI. .......

Looks like your oil pump has to work at a higher pressure than "normal". The drop across the original filters is about 5 to 6 psi when the filters are new and another 3 to 4 psi across the oil cooler.

Patrick (OPCOM), what is the pressure drop across that filter for the given flow rate and filtration?

I like the by-pass filter since it has minimal effect on the originall specs.

 

[OPCOM]

These conditions are well under the burst pressure which I have seen listed at 250PSI.

I don't know the pressure drop, but my pressure didn't decrease when I put them in. Wach one is rated as if it were the same flow as both originals, so the drop should be low. The "beta ratio" was discussed before. Here are the specs:

Part Number: wix 51970XE (napa 1970XE)
UPC Number: 765809529700
Principal Application: Glass Media Version of 51970
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 10.200
Outer Diameter Top: 4.661
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 1 1/2-12
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: 2/20=3/10
Burst Pressure-PSI: 250
Max Flow Rate: 28-30 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 5