Do you know the part number for the Power Steering and Alternator mounting studs?

[Loco_Hosa]

Hey all, I broke one of the studs used for tensioning the power steering pump. Since I know our belt drives are different than civilian trucks I am not sure if the dealership will know the particular stud I need and be able to get it for me without a part number.

Any help would be great.

 

[richingalveston]

take one with you to the parts store and they should be able to match it up

 

[cucvrus]

I have them brand new. They are the same M10 x 1.5 metric stud/bolt that are on the intake manifold. Send me your address and I will send you one. Or remove one from the intake manifold and replace it with an M10 X 1.5 bolt of the appropriate length. Good Luck. Let me know. To be honest. I would just go to the hardware store and pick up a die. I would run it over that stud put a new M10 x 1.5 flange nut on that stud and call it fixed. It only acts as a pivot point for the Power Steering bracket. It was left loose for a while. Good Luck. You can do it.

 

[doghead]

FWIW, the parts numbers in the parts TM are the GM part number.

 

[cucvrus]

Most of the GM part numbers listed in the CUCV TM's are long obsolete or superseded to new part numbers that are also obsolete. When it comes to bolts and any fasteners you can go to a salvage yard if you need Genuine GM. Or dig thru a stash of used bolts. Hardware stores will yield you the bolts you need in the proper length and size but many times the hex head is of different drive size. To me I try and keep all hex drives the same to help me and the next guy maintain the vehicle. I found many correct bolts on all vehicles I disassemble even the new 2020 trucks have correct size drive bolts and thread to serve and replace worn rounded CUCV bolts as I come across them. I toss any fasteners that are distorted and worn. I fix special ones and at times have made a few special bolts from longer bolts. Not real difficult. I suggest a thread gauge and use care in correctly identifying the fastener you need and that it is of proper strength. I also recommend avoiding the use of stainless steel fasteners on driveline parts. Basically anywhere that breakage can occur. Stainless bolts are brittle. Good Luck. The offer stands if you get in a bind. Be Safe. I think you have this nailed.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

I have them brand new. They are the same M10 x 1.5 metric stud/bolt that are on the intake manifold. Send me your address and I will send you one. Or remove one from the intake manifold and replace it with an M10 X 1.5 bolt of the appropriate length. Good Luck. Let me know. To be honest. I would just go to the hardware store and pick up a die. I would run it over that stud put a new M10 x 1.5 flange nut on that stud and call it fixed. It only acts as a pivot point for the Power Steering bracket. It was left loose for a while. Good Luck. You can do it. View attachment 788367View attachment 788368

So, there are two studs in the photo and one of them is broken off, that's the one that the power steering pump pivots on. Now that I think about it though, I'm not sure at all what the other stud is attached to. I know I didn't take anything of it yesterday during disassembly.

I'm going to go investigate and see if it's as simple as taking the intact stud off, tapping it, and then putting it in the other hole.

Ive got some work to do today. Thanks all.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Well, I borrowed a stud from the intake manifold where it was just acting as a bolt, replaced it with a bolt, put the stud back in place of the broken one, and started to put it back together when I saw that the power steering bracket is a bit mangled.

So, original problem solved. Now to figure out a replacement bracket.

 

[richingalveston]

the bracket is easily damaged and most people take the existing bracket and straighten and reinforce it. most of the time it takes some additional metal and a welder to fix it. you will have to source a used bracket if you need another one.

 

[Sharecropper]

John at Hillbilly Wizard has that bracket used.

 

[cucvrus]

If it were mine. I would weld the existing bracket. It will be stronger. Like plywood. Get a piece and weld it in place. Smooth it out. If it is the slot that is hammered and worn. Just put a grade 8 washer on the stud then the bracket. grease the adjustment slot a wee bit and tighten the belt. As long as it is tight and held secure it will work. Many were not loosened and tighten properly. It is a poor design. They could have put a 1/2" square on the bracket to assist in tightening. but they didn't. Fix what you have a small grinder and sander can be very useful. Welding skills are a big plus. Good luck. If you have anything scrap with an adjusting slot you can use that as a helpful piece on the old bracket. Put your extra metal on the front side of the bracket. Not the back. That way it still maintains alignment. Do you have the lower bracket to the block? Item # 9 & 10. Without them you are stressing the main bracket. I still have 1 brand new bracket and am saving it for retirement. I also have 2 that need repaired. Good Luck. Be Safe.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Well, got it fixed. It was not elegant or pretty but that poor bracket looks like it has been welded back together a dozen times. Today I'll finish tightening belts and then hopefully it will be leaving the garage.

You all have been really helpful. I'll post photos of this mangled bracket later. =]

 

[cucvrus]

Looks have no bearing on the usefulness and the functionality of a specific part. If it works hold the belt tight and allows you to stay mobile is all that matters. You do have the lower bracket in place? Just checking. Good Luck.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Looks have no bearing on the usefulness and the functionality of a specific part. If it works hold the belt tight and allows you to stay mobile is all that matters. You do have the lower bracket in place? Just checking. Good Luck.

I do not have a lower bracket. I was planning to look into that more after I get it back together.

This 6.2 is really tired and not great, so I'm hoping that spring 2021 I can swap a 6.5 with a serpentine belt which is part of why I couldn't justify $150 bracket. =p If I get another year out of this bracket I'll be thrilled.

 

[cucvrus]

The lower bracket missing is the root of most broken cracked Power Steering brackets. I made a few of the #10 part. And I have a few of the # 9 part. Without these brackets holding that main bracket steady it is just a matter of time before the main bracket fails again. If it is a vehicle you want to depend on. Now is the time to fix it right. Again flat bar and an M10 flange nut. Form and weld the flange nut in place. Good Luck. A 6.2 is only .3 liters smaller. The difference is in the bore, and in that, the block isn't 'hogged out' as much around the main web areas. More meat in between the cylinders too. Heads are slightly different, be can be used with all 6.5 peripherals no problem. 6.2 heads have bigger valves and have the potential of flowing lots of air with some work. Be Safe.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

The lower bracket missing is the root of most broken cracked Power Steering brackets. I made a few of the #10 part. And I have a few of the # 9 part. Without these brackets holding that main bracket steady it is just a matter of time before the main bracket fails again. If it is a vehicle you want to depend on. Now is the time to fix it right. Again flat bar and an M10 flange nut. Form and weld the flange nut in place. Good Luck. A 6.2 is only .3 liters smaller. The difference is in the bore, and in that, the block isn't 'hogged out' as much around the main web areas. More meat in between the cylinders too. Heads are slightly different, be can be used with all 6.5 peripherals no problem. 6.2 heads have bigger valves and have the potential of flowing lots of air with some work. Be Safe.

I have number 10, so I need to track down or build number 9. One of my next projects is going to be upgrading my CJ from the 4.2L with vbelts to a 4.0 with serpentine belts, Im thinking I can build part number 9 out of the power steering pump bracket I take off of the Jeep.

I dont know exactly what is causing all the blow by on my 6.2 and I have not made a solid plan for what will replace it yet, I will be doing all the research next year. Had to slam this back together with some urgency since the M1009 and its 37 inch tires are best suited for braving the muddy pasture and delivering a trailer full of hay to our horses without destroying the ground. The Cummins powered Dodge with its much smaller street tires leaves some real ugly tire ruts and, because its so much heavier, is much much harder to recover if it gets stuck. Ill take the M1009 back apart come spring when the ground is firmed back up.

Before:

AFTER:

 

[Sharecropper]

GEEEEEEZZZUUUUSSSKKKRRRIIIISSSTTT!!!

I wish I could un-see that.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

GEEEEEEZZZUUUUSSSKKKRRRIIIISSSTTT!!!

I wish I could un-see that.

Yeah, I'm not a great welder and neither are the other people who have fixed this o.o