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Does this look like it will work?

WillWagner

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Forgot to start taking pics as I started. What can I say, I get on a roll and don't usually stop 'till i'm done. Started with a 1/2 x 5 x 20 piece of flat stock and 2, 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 20 pieces of angle, and a solid hitch that I got at a yard sale for $2.00. Think it will be OK for a 90 mile trip? Towed the trailer I have for 10 miles, including freeway miles, seemed OK. I think I need to raise it though. If I put tires and junk in the truck, it might squat too much.
 

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clinto

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I'd run it.

And I am the guy at work who is constantly saying "I don't think OSHA would like this"
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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When I build my McGyver things like that I usually try to build in another brace that takes the farthest out point to the base of the hitch as close as possible to the point where the hitch exits the reciever. In this case I would weld another piece of angle or tube from the top of your project to the top of the insert. You could do this with a saddle that was pinned into the insert so it could be removable. I would draw you a picture but I am not able to do this right now kinda busy with the Army.
 

WillWagner

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I was thinking about a bracket from the hitch pin to the plate or to one of the 3/4 bolts that go thru the upright to stop any movement in the assembly. Thanks David. Keep the ideas comming, I think it needs something else.
 

Recovry4x4

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What you need is 2 deuces. That would negate you having to fabricate the new hitch. Perhaps you can get one from the location of the trailer and pull it back with that. (Don't tell your wife where I live) LOL
 

WillWagner

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Kenny, Got an xtra couch?....and room for two trailers and trucks?
 

Recovry4x4

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I got the room for the trucks and trailers. Wanna move in with me in the expandible trailer? I might be headed that way myself.
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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It may seem strange but on my taigate rack I built a truss system underneath that went to each corner and then to a kingpost at the insert as close to the hitch as I could get it and still get the pin in the hole. If you built a horziontal bar underneath and then A framed it up to the top it would brace it from swaying from left to right with the other brace going forward it would really make it more capable of handling and emergency stress. I think this would be like having a wieght distribution hitch in terms of increasing it's capacity. I am a transporter and a tinkerer not an engineer see the brackets I installed as a temporary fuel tank holder till I get the fuel tanks cleaned and serviceable on my M52. I tried to make a paint picture of what I am reffering to but i can not resize it
 

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WillWagner

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That's a beefy hitch David. I think I might try to box the top in, don't know if the "H" brace will do any good. I gotta go look at it and do some head scratchin'.
 

JDToumanian

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What are you trying to do, Will? Just move the trailer light behind your pickup once or twice, or loaded down in longer term service? That's a stout looking bracket you've made... There's a lot of steel and a lot of weld there. I can't picture it breaking. I'd run it. 8)

Jon
 

WillWagner

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Jon, I'm gonna be out by you next Thursday to recover a 105 I won at Barstow DRMO. I think bigmike is gonna try to come. Wanna hook up for breakfast?
 

Armada

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Looks great Will. You could flip the lunette to get some more heigth out of the front of the trailer. You may be able to mount your pintle lower then too.
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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I know the effort that was put into trying to flip the lunnette at Aberdeen made me sweat just watching them. After men with alot more back than me gave it their all the consensus that the final towing level was not worth the pain and the nut and cotter pin were put back on. I think if the trailer is empty and the speed of acceleration/ de-celleration and speed at which bumps are taken are all kept within reason the hitch will pull the trailer without any trouble. With the hitch being the weakest part as I see it any extreem force might even bend the frame or the frame mounted reciever hitch. We have HMMWV's come in all the time with bent frames in Iraq when externallly mounted grills and racks get too much inertia going. That is why the mount I built on my M105 is canted so far forward and braced to the sides of the lunnete so that the force lines would be transmitted back up to the point of the lunette attachment to the frame. If you look at a stess line of the trailer in a high speed stop or big bump taken at high speed the forces would twist the frame mounted hitch or even the frame rail

Take it slow and easy and this should get you home fine
 

KaiserM109

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Mil-to-chevy hook up

I'm chiming in a little late. I was cruising the old postings because I am planning to do something just like that.

I've been doing stuff like that for some time. I would suggest that you not try to haul more than the trailer + 1000# with it extended all the way up, like in the picture. Another suggestion, if you are going to have it behind your Chevy regularly and are not concerned with matching the height of the deuce, flip the lunette over. That will lift your tongue about 4 or 5 inches.

If all you are doing is flipping the lunette, you only have to back up the nut about 1 inch. If you decide to take the lunette off for some reason, when the lunette is free to rotate, check all sides of the threads before you take the nut all the way off. Many times the end will get banged up and you will ruin a very hard to replace nut.
 

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spicergear

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RE: Mil-to-chevy hook up

That extension you built is plenny strong...but that's possibly the bad part. (don't get me wrong, I LIKE IT!...nice and beefy!) the problem is the cantilever effect it can have on your truck frame. The receiver on the truck is sturdy. It's recommended anytime you don't need to have a hitch in the receiver to take it out as if someone happens to rear end you, the extension of just the hitch (and the receiver being sturdy) can cause the frame to get damaged in front of the receiver. That hitch is great but I'd not haul a loaded trailer especially since that trailer is like 2200# anyway.
 

co_rotorhead

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I have also looked for a thread on this...but what about the other way, that is to convert the pintle on the duece to tow a ball in order to tow a boat? I have seen some ball hooks guys have made but they are bulky and hang very low. Is there a way to do this that is not permanent? A bolt on solution for say a 5 - 7,000lb GVW trailer and boat?
 
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