Doghead dilemma

[PegLegFury]

So I brought home an m1009 last week. All was going fine with it so I decided to do the Doghead mod as a preventative maintenance thing(had done it on my last CUCV) and while my bud was buttoning it up there was a load pop, followed by yelling and him cursing.
So he had done a test run and had the new relay wired up, mounted on the bracket and covered in electrical tape glue just sitting on the floorboard. Turned the key and it started. Well, he/we forgot to undo the batteries again and he went to mount it back under the dash when the connectors must have touched something and it sparked.


Now the 24v system still seems to be mostly working. I have 24v to the glowplug solenoid still as well has gen lights on the dash but
Turning the key gets a click from the relay but no crank.

12v is screwy too. Wipers and heater blower work as well as the signals in the front and taillights but
Dash lights are out including signal indicators, speedo, fuel, seatbelt etc. and no head or tail lights at all.
Fuse box fuses are solid and Service light switch is set to on

In essence it wont start and has little 12v power.

Ive scanned through the TM's and cant find a common connection and search brings up a lot of issues but haven't found my particular problem.

I did replace the starter with one I had lying around and did replace the 'sparked' relay with a new one.
I've squeezed the fusible links and they seemed fine but maybe I'm not seeing the one I need.
Grounds should be good since there wasn't an issue before.

Anyway, what else can I check or where exactly should I be looking for a fusible link to these systems.

PS my bud is on a strict no wire policy for the rest of this build.

 

[cucvrus]

You burnt a fusible link under the 24 volt buss bar. I would NEVER cut that stock relay out. But it seems to be the trend. I would replace it if it failed. After over 20 years I had 2 fail and reached up and unplugged it. NAPA AR746 gets you a new plug and play relay. Good Luck.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I've squeezed the fusible links and they seemed fine but maybe I'm not seeing the one I need.

That won't tell you if it's good. Get your test light out.

 

[ken]

I know you said the grounds were good before and they should be ok. But with little 12V try adding some temp ones anyway. Engine to body and body to frame. There is a cheesy ground at the headlight harness that mounts to the body by the rad. It may be burnt under the insulation. I have burnt this ground myself. If you have some use, jumper cables for temp grounds for a test.

 

[antennaclimber]

I agree with CUCVRUS.

Check the Red fusible link wire coming off of the 24V positive bus bar. This wire feeds the starter relay with 24 volts and it feeds the 24v fuse in the fuse box.

It is labeled 1RED-2Z THERMO HW in the CUCV starting circuit diagram.

 

[PegLegFury]

So I replaced the fusibles on the 24v system and now it starts. Still dont have power to most dash lights though.
I did clean the ground next to the parking brake to no effect.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Check the fusible links coming off the diamond-shaped connector on the firewall above the GP relay. You likely have some burned there, too.

 

[PegLegFury]

No power to 5a fuse. Got to search for gremlin

 

[PegLegFury]

Replaced fusible links and now have 10-11v to the fuse but still no lights...maybe ill rip the dash apart tomorrow and check current to sockets. Or is there a ground other than the parking brake area in that system that im not seeing?

 

[searls84]

You burnt a fusible link under the 24 volt buss bar. I would NEVER cut that stock relay out. But it seems to be the trend. I would replace it if it failed. After over 20 years I had 2 fail and reached up and unplugged it. NAPA AR746 gets you a new plug and play relay. Good Luck.

Concerning the fusible links under the 24V BUSS bar, what would I replace them with? Can I do an in-line fuse (if so what amp?) or do I need to find a setup like what is on it?

Are all of the black canister looking fusible links the same amperage?

Electrical is not my strong point at all!!

 

[cucvrus]

Fusible Link Wire FAQs

We get many questions about fusible link wire. Below are some that we get most frequently. What is a Fusible Link? A fusible link is a short piece of insulated low-voltage cable within an automotive wiring harness that is designed to protect the...

www.wiringdepot.com

That black canister is a fancy sealed butt connector. Check out the link I provided. Fusible link wire is available at most auto parts stores. No do NOT replace the fusible links wires with a fuse. The fusible link is a bit more tolerant and takes a bit more to melt out. A fuse is POP and its gone. Even a split second short will POP a fuse. The fusible link will take it a while longer but still do it's job protecting the wiring. Good Luck. I hope it works out for you. Cut the black canisters out and replace with a heat shrink butt connector and a piece of heat shrink tubing to attach the proper fusible link wire.