Ebay Aluminum Radiator Installation

[ssdvc]

OK, this thread has a little info on the radiator I purchased for my M1009. 4 core, aluminum and about $280...shipped. Oh, it is the only one I found that SHOULD fit in our trucks.

So today I finally got around to start disconnecting everything. The leak was coming from the passenger side lower corner.



Disconnected all four cooler lines (2 for trans, 2 for oil) and capped them. I first disconnected both batteries, and then I removed the front battery, it's tray and then the overflow bottle on the drivers side so I would have room to work (I am glad I did). I removed all the bolts holding the top hose, top plastic cap and radiator shroud. Then took the radiator cap off and loosened the lower hose and let it drip out for a while (to minimize the mess...it didn't work!! LOL!!). Once the radiator was emptied I tipped it up towards the passenger side and got the remaining liquid out of there (and there was still quite a bit). Then I just removed the radiator. This is what she looked like after about 6-7 of service:

 

[ssdvc]

Disconnected all four cooler lines (2 for trans, 2 for oil) and capped them. I first disconnected both batteries, and then I removed the front battery, it's tray and then the overflow bottle on the drivers side so I would have room to work (I am glad I did). I removed all the bolts holding the top hose, top plastic cap and radiator shroud. Then took the radiator cap off and loosened the lower hose and let it drip out for a while (to minimize the mess...it didn't work!! LOL!!). Once the radiator was emptied I tipped it up towards the passenger side and got the remaining liquid out of there (and there was still quite a bit). Then I just removed the radiator. This is what she looked like after about 6-7 of service:



Not really looking to good.

 

[ssdvc]

Ok, now I am cleaning, painting and test fitting.

This is my old sensor off the radiator (don't know what it is):



It attaches to this connection:



This is where it was mounted on the old radiator:



And this is the new mounting spot on the new radiator (not the same, looks like a slip on hose fitting/hose clamp setup):



First, what is this sensor? And second, is there a different sensor available for the new "slip on fitting"?

 

[ssdvc]

Also, I know that the transmission cooler line fitting connections to the radiator are 12-20 UNF. Does anyone know what size the oil cooler line fittings to the radiator are 5/8-18 UNF??)? I can't find it anywhere.

 

[ssdvc]

OK, found out what that sensor is (Actually read the ™ !!). It is a low level fluid sensor for the radiator. One thing down, a bunch more to go.

 

[cucvrus]

It just never ends. I am thinking about how you will mount that threaded low coolant sensor into a barbed pipe nipple. I suggest you cut the threaded pipe connection and place it in a 5/8" hose just long enough to connect the hose to the barbed connection and the treaded connection together. You can hook the wire up and everything will work. you only need the depth of the treads on that threaded connection.

 

[ssdvc]

It's a good idea Rick, but I don't want to hack the old radiator apart yet. I am going to take it and see if it is savable for a future re-core. I am trying to keep everything plug and play. I am also waiting for a response from the folks I bought the radiator from to see what they come up with (which will also tell me how good a company they are).

 

[cucvrus]

Go to the hardware store and get a brass fitting that that sensor fits into. I had to adapt that coolant sensor on a few radiators already. But like I said. It never ends. Stay Cool.

 

[cucvrus]

It's a good idea Rick, but I don't want to hack the old radiator apart yet. I am going to take it and see if it is savable for a future re-core. I am trying to keep everything plug and play. I am also waiting for a response from the folks I bought the radiator from to see what they come up with (which will also tell me how good a company they are).

I don't think it needs re-cored. I think it needs repaired but if a good repair shop was to remove the tanks and clean the core, they would be able to repair that radiator. Good Luck. I bought that at Auto Zone. It was a lifetime warranted radiator.

 

[ssdvc]

Thanks for the suggestions Rick. I am sure I'll figure that sensor thing out.

Another question. What is the fitting on the right called ?? It was on my old radiator and was for the heater core hose connection.



My radiator came with a plug in the hole that this fitting goes into. The bung on the radiator appears to be a different size (just slightly larger in diameter/wrong thread pitch) and I need to find this fitting in another size.

Thanks.

 

[ssdvc]

OK, I still need to know where I can find this part:



The nipple that was removed from the old radiator (heater hose connection to the radiator) and looks to have an NPT thread pitch. The plug and bung that came with this radiator look to have a slightly finer and different thread pitch (UNF?) and the plug appears to be just a hair larger then the old fitting. Would someplace like NAPA carry it?

 

[Keith_J]

Looks like an o ring type fitting. Should be a standard part but I don't know the size.

Surplus Center has good tech info on fittings.

Surplus Center

Warehouse distributor for many top name manufacturers. Parker Hydraulics, Hypro Pumps, Prince Hydraulics. Direct from the factory. Surplus equipment. We buy large quantities of manufacturer's surplus or excess stock.

www.surpluscenter.com

In the technical section. If you have a thread checker, 90% of the guess work is done.

 

[ssdvc]

OK, the saga continues, but gets happier (for me) as it progresses. I spent 4 hours today and 4 hours yesterday running around from parts house to parts house, machine shops, and radiator shops to find a solution to the heater hose issue. Here is some information I found out during my search.

1. The Oil Cooler Line connections are 5/8-18UNF and the Transmission Cooler Lines connections are 1/2-20UNF (just in case anyone wanted to know.
2. I believe the standard/stock Heater Hose bung is 1/4-18NPT
3. The Low Coolant Sensor bung is 1/4-18 (I think).


The Heater Hose bung on my new aluminum radiator turned out to M22-1.5 (F80HGS), so the standard hose connection would not fit. After a lot of phone calls, a few hours of driving and B.S. with all sorts of knowledgeable folks, I stopped at BGR Radiator about 40 minutes from me. They said I had a few options
a. Bring them my old radiator and for $75, they would be able to tell me exactly what was needed to make it brand new. They estimated between $900 and $1200.
b. They could cut out the current heated hose bung and weld in a new NPT bung so I could be able to use a straight forward factory connection. Price was about $300, give or take.
c. Go to a particular specialty shop they recommended and try and find an adapter that fit. Price around $30

Well Monty, I am going with door number 3!!!

I went to this place in Mass (Standard Source, Inc. and another hour on the road) which was recommended by BGR Radiator. Got there and within 30 minutes they came out with this:



This adapter will fit the bung on the radiator while allowing me to use the standard NPT threaded hose nipple. It looks like everything fits great. I will be dropping the new radiator in within the next day or so, hopefully before the Chinese decide to start a war. As soon as she is filled and up and running, I will finish up and make my final report. Fingers crossed that the $270 Chicom radiator and the $26 adapter will put me back in business.

Oh, and NAPA finally got back to me on a new radiator. Plastic and aluminum CU850, in a warehouse in Jersey for the poultry sum on $1700.

 

[ezgn]

OK, the saga continues, but gets happier (for me) as it progresses. I spent 4 hours today and 4 hours yesterday running around from parts house to parts house, machine shops, and radiator shops to find a solution to the heater hose issue. Here is some information I found out during my search.

1. The Oil Cooler Line connections are 5/8-18UNF and the Transmission Cooler Lines connections are 1/2-20UNF (just in case anyone wanted to know.
2. I believe the standard/stock Heater Hose bung is 1/4-18NPT
3. The Low Coolant Sensor bung is 1/4-18 (I think).


The Heater Hose bung on my new aluminum radiator turned out to M22-1.5 (F80HGS), so the standard hose connection would not fit. After a lot of phone calls, a few hours of driving and B.S. with all sorts of knowledgeable folks, I stopped at BGR Radiator about 40 minutes from me. They said I had a few options
a. Bring them my old radiator and for $75, they would be able to tell me exactly what was needed to make it brand new. They estimated between $900 and $1200.
b. They could cut out the current heated hose bung and weld in a new NPT bung so I could be able to use a straight forward factory connection. Price was about $300, give or take.
c. Go to a particular specialty shop they recommended and try and find an adapter that fit. Price around $30

Well Monty, I am going with door number 3!!!

I went to this place in Mass (Standard Source, Inc. and another hour on the road) which was recommended by BGR Radiator. Got there and within 30 minutes they came out with this:

View attachment 874877View attachment 874878View attachment 874879

This adapter will fit the bung on the radiator while allowing me to use the standard NPT threaded hose nipple. It looks like everything fits great. I will be dropping the new radiator in within the next day or so, hopefully before the Chinese decide to start a war. As soon as she is filled and up and running, I will finish up and make my final report. Fingers crossed the my $270 Chicom radiator and a $26 fitting will put in back in business.

Oh, and NAPA finally got back to me on a new radiator. Plastic and aluminum CU850, in a warehouse in Jersey for the poultry sum on $1700.

Spectra Premium CU850 at Amazon $499.00 7 left.

 

[Keith_J]

Great info ssdvc! With a new radiator, new rubber mounts are a good idea. Prothane makes urethane copies. This minimizes electrolysis which is the prime cause of aluminum failure.

 

[ssdvc]

Spectra Premium CU850 at Amazon $499.00 7 left.

I have checked all the sources for a CU850. The CHEAPEST I could find (and I did find ONE) was $1700. All the web sites list them, but when you go to order, it will eventually tell you out of stock. At $499, it would be an investment if you bought all 7 !!!!

 

[ssdvc]

Rubber mounts will be replaced.

 

[ssdvc]

So, in my search for a resolution to my connection situation, I explored several alternatives. One of them was looking for another radiator with the correct connections. These folks responded quickly and it looks like their radiator is a bit more plug and play with what looks like the correct connections. This is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275226286348?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=bc2ce38f493e4a8189e42b8691e1f540&bu=43184698938&osub=-1~1&crd=20220802040450&segname=11051

And this is the back and forth with the seller when I asked my questions:

ME: Hi,

before I purchase, I need to know what the thread sizes are for ALL threaded connections:


1. What size are the Transmission Cooler line threaded bungs?

2 What size are the Engine Oil Cooler line threaded bungs?

3. What size is the threaded Bung for the heater hose connection?

4. What type of connection is used for the Low Level Coolant sensor?

Thank you.


Them: Good morning.

1. The trans cooler fittings are 1/2"-20 or some people call it 5/16" inverted flare. Very common GM trans line size

2. Engine oil cooler is M20-1.5 and has adapters to go to 3/4"-18 which are GM's only two oil cooler sizes

3. Heater hose bung is 1/4"-18npt

4. Low coolant sensor port is 1/8npt so your stock sensor can screw into this

Let us know if you need anything else
Thanks
Rick


I hope this helps anyone else with a CUCV that needs a radiator. It is getting tough to find replacements at anything close to a responsible price and a compatible fit.

 

[cucvrus]

“The Bitterness of Poor Quality Remains Long After the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten”
I explain this as to why I use Line X as my interior liner and why sometimes money is the only tool to get a job done correctly and the sting hurts at first but the infection of poor quality can be fatal at times. I know guys that used head gaske5t sealer and they swore it was the ticket and next thing I know they are " Hey Rick how much to put an engine in my truck/car. Many dance around expensive repairs and avoid doing it right the first time. How can it be less expensive to do the same job several times. My money would have been on a re-core of an OEM brass copper Harrison radiator. The Spectra were good radiators and were made in Canada. GM trucks were made in Canada. And basically it don't matter where it is made. It must fit properly and be secure in the mounts and the coolant must be maintained so as to not become acidic. I admit I tried the head gasket sealer because a salesman gave it to me. It didn't last 2 days. He followed the instructions and added it to an M1009 that I was driving. It never worked. This vehicle pushed the coolant into the over flow tank and held high pressure on the upper hose. I am off topic but just saying spend the money up front and save parts you have that can be rebuilt and all will be well. Take Care SSDVC. It never ends.

 

[cucvrus]

Plastic and aluminum CU850, in a warehouse in Jersey for the poultry sum on $1700.
Come on SSDVC it's paltry not poultry. That just makes it sound fowl the way you worded it.