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Extreme RV from M36a2

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Sorry for the lack of posts. Had some touph times the last week or two. We had to put down one of our dogs. The kids took it very hard. He was in a few pics. Our large BoerBoel. He was a part of the family. I will get back to the Deuce this week.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Thanks for the kind words guys. The kids are doing better with each day.

A few more pics. I had the cushions made up and the dinnette table top brackets were re-worked so it is propper. It is looking better. Will work more on the kitchen counter top tomorrow.


Not to change the thread but I just have to add this. I watched dooms day preppers yesterday. Not sure if it was a re-run or not but this guy showed, had a bug out truck. He said it could shelter 17 of his family members or friends. The truck had a pick-up truck camper insert in it. I had to laugh, my 17.5 feet would have a hard time fitting that many people. Not to pick fun of him, but what they put on tv kills me. He also said he had $300,000.00 invested. I feel better about my 20,000.00 I'll have in mine.dinnette brackets and cushions 001.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 004.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 005.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 010.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 011.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 012.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 013.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 006.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 009.jpgdinnette brackets and cushions 003.jpg
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Sorry for the number of posts, but I just wanted to add that the bed is 65" wide by 73" long. Beds are usualy longer but I am only 5'9" so it is ok for me and the family. This distinguishes a custom build from a standard build.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Thanks Ellisk,

Put in the sink and countertop. Mostly all mounted. To finish it up i need the side walls on. I have 26.5" of space to the left of the counter top. This is where the fridge is going. Avanti and summit (at homedepot ). Counter top height is 37".


kitchen sink 001.jpgkitchen sink 002.jpgkitchen sink 003.jpgkitchen sink 004.jpg
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Thats one heck of a sink there D2! Are you going to put a front on it with doors?? What wall coverings are planed?
Starting to look good!!:thumbup:
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
The walls and ceiling are going to be sheets of 3/8" plywood panneling. Its groved and gives it a nice look. It will need a little sanding but not much. Price is good at around $20 a sheet. Then going to use some nice 3/4 by 4-6" finish wood around the ceiling/wall seam. To help hold up the ceiling edges. I like the warm cabin style look. I am going to go around the entire inside with foil bubble foil radiant barrier before the panneling goes up. Quickest, easiest way to get a bit more r-value (not floor).

I might put two draws under the sink/counter top. No cabnets, might need to get feet and legs under it if we use an air mattress, when housing more people.

Bathroom walls and ceiling are going to be polymax sheet from farmtec.going with 3/8 sheet of plywood then 1/4 polymax sheet over it. Pure white in color. Might look a little institutional, but doing this build may lead some to believe I need to be in a institutionalized.

Ray, I would love to trade some welding time for your wood working time. Maybe we could get together for another build down the line.:beer:
 
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daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
No new pic but I thought I would up date. I am taking the cots to a awning shop on tuesday to get the material put on. Looking forward to it. Next step is to buy 2 more rolls of radiant barrior. Then it is the panneling. I still need to drill the exhaust vent hole for the bath, and I am thinking about an actual wood stove. A little one. I know they make them for boats, but I need to research it a bit more. That way when we are off grid, we still have plenty of heat without electric or propane. Also concidering flooring options. I need insulation on the floor without taking too much thickness (head height). I researched cork flooring and it has a good r-value. I also seen this type of carpet cushioning called hair jute. Cork had a 3.0 at 1 inch and hair jute was 3.88 at 1 inch. Any suggestions let me know.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Hi D2.
The cork flooring you refer to, is it cork underlatment or cork floor? If the latter, cork floor tends to dent easily because its soft, and the jute hair used as an underlayment may hold moister. Maybe some dence 1/2" foam board may work well, and over that you could use a good laminate or comercial grade sheet vinal for durability. I wish i had insulated my floor a little better.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Ray,
the cork flooring is actual flooring. It is said to have very good ware. I thought about the moisture issue with the hair jet also. I thought maybe lay some of the plastic/foam sheet underlayment, very thin about 1/8" thick. Then lay the jet hair. Over that I would lay vinyl flooring, Homedepot sells it. It looks like pergo but is vinyl, and it interlocks with sticky tabs. It doesn't glue to the floor.
I thought about the rigid board, but I was told that you MUST put down something harder over the foam, like paneling or plywood, or the foam would get big indents in it and eventually break down.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
D2.
With laminate coverings, the the underlayment should be of a dence nature, the hair stuff may be too spongy.
If the foam board were put down first,1/4" ply could be laid over the foamboard and screwed down to make a suitable surface for laminate or vinal,
If laminate is used, use the dence scuba rubber underlayment,it works the best and will add some more r value. Keep up the good work!
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
ray,
What is the scuba rubber? Is it the wet suit material? How about maybe roofing rubber. I haven't had a chance to get out to the deuce and do any work for a few days. I got a bit of a cold.

I decided on the rest of the wall and ceiling insulation. I talked again with my friend how owns the insulation company. Asked him for some advise on the finishing insulation plans. He said the ceiling and walls would best be insulated by wrapping the entire thing in the radiant barrier. It would be a lot easier to do. Cost is a little less also. Having the airspace between the stud surface and the foam insulation wil help a lot. I would get a much better seal than I would with the foam board. Sealing is the key to good insulation he said.
 

Mike929

Member
820
22
18
Location
DFW, Tx
The steel outer skin is a radiant barrier. It will turn all ir radiation into heat and prevent it from radiating into the camper save for the window openings.
I do agree that a good seal will maximise the insulation effect. Air is a good insulator if you can keep it from moving. E.g. double pane glass
 
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daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Its been a while since I last posted. 2013 has been a bit tough on the family. We had to put down our big dog in late Feb, and then on St. Patricks day we ( me, the wife and the kids) were hit head on by a drunk driver. We had the big Chevy3500 hd, but it still did a bit of damage. Kids and myself are ok but the wife bounced her knees off the dash board and her back has been bothering her, and of course the jerk had a suspended licence with no insurance. But life goes on and I have still been working on the camper but just haven't posted much. I will try to get some pics up tomorrow if I can. The computor has been giving use a bit of trouble. Things are sure to look up soon. (the sooner the better)
 
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