Extreme RV from M36a2

[daddy2]

Here is an adaptor I bought to allow me to plug into a standard 110 outlet. I can run just fine on the 15 amp outlet, so anyone that wants me to come and visit will have no problem supplying a little power to me. Kind or reminds me of the Griswolds Christmas vacation with Chevy Chase.

 

[daddy2]

Sorry guys, It won't allow me to upload any more pics. Keeps telling me about the 10 pic limit. I will try again later.

 

[daddy2]

Here's that pic.

 

[rassd71]

amazing thread... amazing build. I have a TON of links and info to go through now. I've been wanting to do this for a few years and will shortly be starting my own build... getting a 70 m35a2 from a fellow SS member.

Thank YOU all for the amount of shared information and experience.

I'm sure I'll have a TON of questions for you all as I go, but wanted to let you know how much these detailed build threads help others who are just starting out.

IF you had everything to do over... what would you change?

 

[daddy2]

Thanks for the kind words rassd71 you can pm me any time or if you want e-mail me. I don't get to look at the website as often as I would like.

some more pics of the water heater set up. The fan to the left of the heater exhaust is the bathroom exhaust fan. If anyone remembers the flapper on the drivers side front upper part of camper shell. The flapper is for the exhaust vent. I lined the heater exhaust through hole with wood stove ceramic insulation and left a 1-1.5" gap (air space). Sorry how some of the pics are sideways. Not sure why the downloaded that way. I tried to turn than but wasn't able. Hope no one hurts their necks.

 

[daddy2]

Finished tube is next. The wife needed the rack to hang stuff, so she got the rack.

 

[daddy2]

For the fresh water level sensors I did a lot of research. There wasn't any type of sensors that beat the naked eye. Plus no wiring was needed. I like to watch the level drop as the kids take the 15 min showers

 

[daddy2]

I also foam padded the dinette table bracket. We sleep with our heads on that side and lets just say the steel tubing was harder that my head when I cracked it in the middle of the night. I used water line foam insulation. I wrapped around it nicely.

 

[daddy2]

One more thing. the family went to Yoggy Bears Jelly Stone campground and had a great time. We ran into Shenkmen with his son and we had a great time. I learned that the camper can run just fine on a 20 amp 110 outlet. We had the air conditioner, refrigerator, inside led lights, water pump and electric skillet for cooking all on at the same time, for 30 minutes plus, and no problems. Nice to know.

 

[shenkmen]

Yeah, kinda funny running into another deuce at a campground.

 

[Dipstick]

Hi Daddy2. I finally got the chance to check your camper build out. You've put a ton of work into. I enjoyed meeting you the other day!

 

[daddy2]

Thanks dipstick. I'm sure we will get together some more to talk deuces

 

[tim292stro]

Still following, keep up the good work!!

 

[daddy2]

Its nice to see a few people still check the thread from time to time. I've been playing catch-up on the camper over the last 2 weeks. I've got a bit done but still have a ways to go. I was pondering the power situation to the camper. As off now I have no power in the camper while driving. I can't do the battery bank yet do to the cost, but not having any air conditioning why driving in the summer heat is making the Mrs. very unpleasant to be around. I was thinking about using a second alternator to power just the camper while driving. I can power the entire camper including air conditioner on less than 15 amps A.C. I have done it at home and while camping. I was thinking of connecting the second alternator to a power inverter in order to run the camper while the engine is running. I thought a 150 amp alternator should be able to handle the load. I would need a bolt on bracket for the 2nd alternator and I would need to buy a inverter. Any one have any suggestions. I know there are threads on this already, but if I spend more than 30 minutes on the computer at one time, I start going crazy. I eagerly await any helpful advice on this.

 

[Hainebd]

I am pretty sure you will still need a battery bank and big inverter. May want to go the other way get small portable generator to run your AC stuff. The small Hondas are quite so you will not know if it is running as you drive.

 

[daddy2]

I thought about that. I was hoping I would be able to save gas for the generator while the truck was running. I know northern tool sells some big inverters. I'm just asking, but why would I still need a battery bank.

 

[tim292stro]

An alternator puts out high frequency AC, which is rectified to DC by diodes, but there is still a ton of ripple (not "happy" for most electronics, like the inverter's input). Also, the field coil of the alternator needs something to pull power from to get the generation running - once going, you could remove the battery and have it regulate off the voltage it generates, but the regulator will not be at all tolerant of sudden engine RPM changes, or big load changes (like an air-conditioner starting up).

You need a battery of some sort if you plan to do DC power at all, however, you might be able to reduce the size of the battery bank by using ultracapacitors - it's just not how alternator regulator manufacturers envisioned the system when designing the regulator, so your functionality may vary (and require a good amount of tinkering/experimenting).

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Its nice to see a few people still check the thread from time to time. I've been playing catch-up on the camper over the last 2 weeks. I've got a bit done but still have a ways to go. I was pondering the power situation to the camper. As off now I have no power in the camper while driving. I can't do the battery bank yet do to the cost, but not having any air conditioning why driving in the summer heat is making the Mrs. very unpleasant to be around. I was thinking about using a second alternator to power just the camper while driving. I can power the entire camper including air conditioner on less than 15 amps A.C. I have done it at home and while camping. I was thinking of connecting the second alternator to a power inverter in order to run the camper while the engine is running. I thought a 150 amp alternator should be able to handle the load. I would need a bolt on bracket for the 2nd alternator and I would need to buy a inverter. Any one have any suggestions. I know there are threads on this already, but if I spend more than 30 minutes on the computer at one time, I start going crazy. I eagerly await any helpful advice on this.

Hainebd is right. You'd need a battery of decent capacity between the alt. and the inverter. A lot of cost and complexity just for house air. His idea of a inverter generator is most likely better. Also costly, and you need gasoline but dosen't interfere with the tuck operation and works when truck not running. I wish there was an affordable small diesel inverter generator.

 

[daddy2]

It is an honor, quadjeeper to see you here. Also thanks for the great info tim.

What if I run maybe 2, 100 amp hr. deep cycle batteries. Would that work. From alternator to batteries to inverter. The problem with the generator running is I would need to pull over if I wanted to start or stop the thing.

 

[tim292stro]

Typically one starts with the loads and works back to the point of generation. I'm presuming it's a 15/20 Amp type unit, so it would need an inverter or generator in the 4-7kW range (about the $400 mark for a cheap inverter). Figure that you get at most 85% efficiency,so you'd be drawing round about 4.7-8.3kW from the alternator/batteries - that would be between a 170-260Amp/24Volt alternator (that's probably going to be a big one). For longevity of the batteries, you don't want to discharge your batteries more than 50% ever, or 80% most of the time. With two 100Ah batteries in series, running an inverter, powering an air conditioner - you're probably looking at around 15-25 minutes run time. This nifty calculator will help with figuring out run-times.

The generator is probably cheaper in the short/long term, and way easier to put in your setup since you'd leave the air conditioner alone essentially. As for starting and stopping on the road, if you have an electric start generator, you could do a remote control panel, or an auto-start. I was recently talking to member jpg about something like this after the Remote AC thread started by patracy. It might be easier to do an engine driven compressor and plumb it into the existing air conditioning system - and it may not. Typically mini-splits are the easiest to adapt to this - RV style are harder, especially if they use a single fan motor for the evaporator/condenser.