FINALLY landed my MEP-003a!!!

[max bowtie]

So I had some time yesterday to get back to work on the generator. Mounted the fuel tank, changed all the filters, cleaned the fuel pump filters, added diesel to the tank, and the batteries. Switched to the prime setting and the pumps kicked on. I let them run for a bit but noticed that the pumps weren't drawing any fuel from the tank. All the fuel lines have been blown clear. I removed the fuel line at the first pump and it doesn't appear to be pulling vacuum. Is there a way to disassemble these pumps and clean/inspect them? I've been pouring over the threads but have been unable to find a thread that describes this.

Thanks

 

[Ray70]

I suppose the first thing I would check is the strainer in the bottom of the fuel pumps. The cap twists off the bottom of the pump and there is a mesh strainer in there, make sure it's not all clogged up. If it is you can wash it with carb cleaner or take the strainer out of your auxiliary pump and use that one for now.
Another note: I'm sure you've noticed these machines have 2 redundant fuel pumps. There's no sense running them both all the time, so I usually unplug the cannon plug going to the 2nd pump, that way you extend the life of your "spare" pump. If the primary pump ever fails, just plug #2 back in and you're back in business.

 

[max bowtie]

Roy, Yeah I removed and cleaned the filters in the bottom of the pumps... And that's a good tip with saving the second pump as a backup

 

[Ray70]

I noticed you said you switched the selector to Prime and the pumps run.... maybe, just to be sure.... try making sure its the primary pumps that are running. You never know, someone may have plugged the pumps in wrong or wired the relays wrong and maybe it's actually the aux. pump that is running?? Not likely, but just to rule stupid stuff out.
If the primaries are indeed both running, that might indicate that both pumps are bad. You could hook a fuel line to the aux. pump and verify that it works, then swap out the aux pump with one of the primaries and see what you get?? Only other thing to try would be to try squirting some fuel into the pump inlet fitting and see if "Priming" the pump helps at all. You shouldn't have to prime them but maybe it will help a weak pump start building suction?? Don't know....

 

[max bowtie]

I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the help. I didn't have much time last night to dig into it too deep so I figured I'd ask for some advice to get a game plan together

 

[rustystud]

The pumps are totally rebuildable. On mine I found one pump was full of crud and rusty, and the others just needed a little cleaning. The pump itself is just a piston which moves up and down inside it's bore with check valves to control flow.

 

[max bowtie]

Excellent! That's what I wanted to know before I tore into it

 

[max bowtie]

She's running and making power! Thanks to everyone for all your help!!!

 

[Ray70]

So, what did you do to get her going, pumps need to be cleaned out like Rustystud was saying?
How's it doing now.... everything working correctly? We all love it when another machine comes back to life!
Congrats!

 

[max bowtie]

So, what did you do to get her going, pumps need to be cleaned out like Rustystud was saying?
How's it doing now.... everything working correctly? We all love it when another machine comes back to life!
Congrats!

Ray, Thanks! Yeah, the check valves were seized up. Took it apart and got them free. One pump wasn't running so I took that out of the loop. She primed right away, filled the filter canisters and bled the air to the injection pump. So I tried for a start and she came right on line with little to no hesitation! She runs smooth, no smoke, charges the batteries and is making power! I haven't put her under a big load yet but hopefully that will happen soon.

 

[Keith_J]

Both pumps are needed to keep the injector pump lubed and cool. It is fine for short periods but for ultimate reliability, both should run.

 

[max bowtie]

Both pumps are needed to keep the injector pump lubed and cool. It is fine for short periods but for ultimate reliability, both should run.

Thanks for the advice. I wanted to get a replacement pump for the added reliability but also thought it would help when under a load when supply is higher. I did find a pinhole leak in the fuel tank this afternoon... Not sure what I'm going to do with this yet. I'd like to retain the stock appearance and functionality. The gears are turning

 

[Keith_J]

If you were closer, I have gotten good at TIG welding those pesky pinholes. First, it must be clean. Then, clean inside. I use a burr to open the hole until back to good metal, then slowly fill the edges until closed after argon back purge. I would recommend POR tank sealant. I used hot melt glue plugs for all threaded bungs, then clean them out with taps after curing.

 

[cuad4u]

If you were closer, I have gotten good at TIG welding those pesky pinholes. First, it must be clean. Then, clean inside. I use a burr to open the hole until back to good metal, then slowly fill the edges until closed after argon back purge. I would recommend POR tank sealant. I used hot melt glue plugs for all threaded bungs, then clean them out with taps after curing.

Or...if you are not good at TIG, clean the area really good back to bright metal and wipe with lacquer thinner to remove all oil and grease. Mix JB Weld and apply. It may not be as good as TIG but I have a PE95? military generator with a gasoline tank fixed this way over 15 years ago. So far so good.

 

[max bowtie]

Gotcha! I've got a buddy who is a pipeline welder that has a tig welder. Got me thinking now. Found a NOS tank online but its salty!!! whew!

 

[Keith_J]

Welders like having all the prep work done, that is 90% of the work. On these tanks, the metal is fairly thick but use care in removing the paint around the holes to avoid thinning. On the inside, I used acetone rinse, then let that air out, followed by phosphoric acid rust treatment. Then you can probe for holes and thin spots.

The filler cap boss is solder sealed and riveted with copper blind rivets, use a torch and compressed air to remove the solder, drill the rivets out and remove the filler neck, now you have full access to the inside of the tank. Feel for the rust spots and lightly hit them from the inside with an automatic center punch, if the ding shows on the outside, drill and ream back to full thickness metal for ease of welding. Remember, rust is iron oxide, when it melts during welding, it causes blow outs from the released oxygen.

Yes, you can use epoxy to seal the holes, I trust my welding more.

 

[max bowtie]

Thanks Keith! I was reading one of your older posts last night when you did this on your tank. Very helpful advice! Thank you!

 

[Ray70]

I've used the 2 part epoxy tank sealer from Caswell Plating on 2 of my machines and it worked excellent so far. I read that some people had problems with so of the other brands, so I choose the Caswell brand. Dried hard as a rock but took a while for it to kick over because the weather was cool, so I had to keep tipping the tank for quite a while to prevent it from running to the bottom and pooling up in the bottom of the tank, but otherwise an excellent product!

 

[max bowtie]

Gotcha, Thanks Ray. I need to do a closer inspection of the fuel tank and see how bad it really is

 

[bhagwan11]

cuad4u, I purchased a trailer with 2 003's and have read a bunch of stuff here. Having rebuilt many of these you seem to have the knowledge maybe you can help me with a few things. I haven't started to go over mine yet but I've read that you should remove the intake before turning the engine over. I was just wondering where to get intake manifold gaskets or did you just make them yourself?
Thanks, bhagwan11