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First real use of Mep-803 | Praises and problems (albeit little)

spotrep

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LOL yes, I'm saying ill get a sample when I change the oil next, and ill take the sample from the USED oil of course. Ill run the set to warm up the oil, and get all the metals suspended and take my sample during draining. But ill be sure to change this plan if the test facility has other recommendations. Anyways, I appreciate yall's concerns for my wallet!

Btw, @Guyfang , I believe the man I bought the generator from had just returned from a visit to Germany to look at his car being built and if I recall correctly you welcomed him to your home. And actually, I got to ride in that same car the day I picked up the MEP! I could have some details wrong, though.
 

Guyfang

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The Military doesn't use break in oil. The reset will not use break in oil. If an engine passes all the tests, then they leave it in the gen set. It works. Why fool with it.
 

Jayhawk#44

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The Military doesn't use break in oil. The reset will not use break in oil. If an engine passes all the tests, then they leave it in the gen set. It works. Why fool with it.
Now I’m just confused! Then why all the talk on SS about using break-in oil in our freshly reset gennys?

Thanks in advance!

Matt
Rock Chalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

birddog1106

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Gentleman! Had some bad storms roll into east of Dallas, Texas where we live and took out many powerlines . Infact, many are still without power after over I think 36 hours.

My setup is an Mep-803, a generac ATS, and @kloppk 's 802/803 remote start controller with the 2 wire/generac controller board.

I want to first say that the 803 handled everything wonderfully and makes me so thankful for the expense and work I've put into to get to where I am with the system.

A few notes before I get into the meat of it:
1. My sister in law came over and was grateful to be in a home that was running as if on grid power (with some minor load shedding). My father-in-law (she still lives with her parents) had gone and bought a big box store generator, and had extension cords running throughout the home to keep the essentials running. She was amazed at the quiet reassuring hum of an MEP compared to the absolute racket caused by my FIL's generator.
2. My wife was so happy! I've mentioned before on SS that while in college at UT, she experienced the terrible ice storm that Texas went through a few years ago. She was living alone in a small apartment at the time and I was living in the North Texas area. She was without power for 6 or 7 days and many pipes burst, causing the apartment complex to shut water off completely. All of this on her birthday no less! We now are married and have 2 small children(2 years old and 1 month old). She was so thankful that we had power. Infact, her hierarchy of needs was so elevated due to the reliable power that the new complaint was lack of internet! so maybe a new slogan for mep's "Power generation so reliable that makes even outage scarred wives complain about lack of internet!" But on a more serious note, she was extremely happy to know that we were GOOD in these situations, all thanks to MEP's and gentleman like you who carry on the support of them.

Okay back to the meat of it!

There are a few things to discuss here and im not sure how to best organize it. I could see the thread going in multiple places, but I think if others have a similar problem it will serve them well, although I might have a bit of a niche set up (803/ATS).

Here's what happened:

1. Lost power.
2. generator started automatically (Thanks Kurt!)
3. ATS flipped to standby, running on gen power
4. 5 minutes pass, generator shuts off (hmm strange)
5. attempt to connect wirelessly to start remotely (The rain and wind was absolutely torrential)
6.brave the weather and manual start, power is back and never quit.

Ive determined that the controller is shutting down the generator due to low oil pressure. it sits around 20 psi when warmed up.
Ive read on other threads that this may be less than ideal but "Ive seen MEP's run for year making 20 psi oil pressure". I should say that ive gone through and completed the calibration, and that the controller is reporting psi in accordance with the MEP's oil pressure gauge (which from what ive read is questionably accurate). I think though that the resolution of the controller is in 5 psi increments (at least that's all that's reported)

So whats the solution here? I could recalibrate to make the controller see 25 psi, when the mep reports 20, but i feel like thats sort of a recipe for disaster, as its my understanding that im relying only on the controller to monitor the health of the generator.
But while operating manually, the 803 seems to be perfectly happy with the reported oil pressure.

Another solution is fix the low oil pressure, which based on my reading the forum isn't actually dangerously low yet.

And the nuclear option, is get another lower hour unit cause 2 meps is better than 1!

Let me know what yall think!
Thinking out loud Maybe running 40 Lube oil would give u just enough Pressure ??
 

Light in the Dark

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Absolutely! Now to figure out what’s wrong and replace things if need be
Hit the -24TM for the machine to start testing (the zero dollar first approach):

LOW OIL PRESSURE
Step 1. Check for improper lubrication oil.
a. If proper lubrication oil, do Step 2.
b. If improper, drain oil and refill with proper lubrication oil (TABLE 2–3), Replace oil filter in accordance
with TM 9-2815-253-24.
Step 2. Test for defective OIL PRESSURE indicator, paragraph 2-41.2.
a. If OIL PRESSURE indicator is not defective, do Step 3.
b. If defective, replace OIL PRESSURE indicator, paragraph 2-41.
Step 3. Test for defective oil pressure sender, paragraph 2-91.1.
a. If defective, replace oil pressure sender, paragraph 2-91. ./
b. If oil pressure sender is not defective and trouble persists, notify next higher level of maintenance.
 

Guyfang

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Light in the Dark

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I stand corrected. But would think its only if a new engine is installed. Break in oil is not to be found in a motor pool.
From what Dewie has told me in the past, the engines may have shipped in with break in oil... but as soon as they were factory received they dumped for fleet oil and out the door.

I assume its at the depot level only that the reman engines get the break in. I assume field work does not receive said fluids.
 

spotrep

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Hit the -24TM for the machine to start testing (the zero dollar first approach):

LOW OIL PRESSURE
Step 1. Check for improper lubrication oil.
a. If proper lubrication oil, do Step 2.
b. If improper, drain oil and refill with proper lubrication oil (TABLE 2–3), Replace oil filter in accordance
with TM 9-2815-253-24.
Step 2. Test for defective OIL PRESSURE indicator, paragraph 2-41.2.
a. If OIL PRESSURE indicator is not defective, do Step 3.
b. If defective, replace OIL PRESSURE indicator, paragraph 2-41.
Step 3. Test for defective oil pressure sender, paragraph 2-91.1.
a. If defective, replace oil pressure sender, paragraph 2-91. ./
b. If oil pressure sender is not defective and trouble persists, notify next higher level of maintenance.
I feel like I need a TM for how to navigate the TM's. I've gone through @Guyfang thread here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803a-all-the-tms-you-need.175591/

When you say -24tm, to which are you referring? to me, it looks like there are multiple tm's ending in -24. I've perused them before but haven't had to rely on them yet.
 

Light in the Dark

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So in basic terms, there are two basic sets of manuals. There is a set for the entire machine, and a set for the engine only.

Ending -10 are the 'Operating' instructions - how it functions, what each part does, etc. Good one to read through as an owner
Ending -24 are the 'Technical Troubleshooting' instructions - meat and potatoes stuff here. Diagnose almost ANY condition with easy to read instruction and testing methods with simple hand tools and meters
Ending -24P are the 'Exploded Parts' manuals. Need to hunt down a replacement for something? Look here. Need to follow a wire? Pick up the schematics in print form.

There are other docs like Lubrication Orders, MWOs, etc... some of those are in the folder. But that's the basic gist. Knowing where to find the info you need, is invaluable... especially if its when the lights are out!
 

spotrep

Active member
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Location
Texas
So in basic terms, there are two basic sets of manuals. There is a set for the entire machine, and a set for the engine only.

Ending -10 are the 'Operating' instructions - how it functions, what each part does, etc. Good one to read through as an owner
Ending -24 are the 'Technical Troubleshooting' instructions - meat and potatoes stuff here. Diagnose almost ANY condition with easy to read instruction and testing methods with simple hand tools and meters
Ending -24P are the 'Exploded Parts' manuals. Need to hunt down a replacement for something? Look here. Need to follow a wire? Pick up the schematics in print form.

There are other docs like Lubrication Orders, MWOs, etc... some of those are in the folder. But that's the basic gist. Knowing where to find the info you need, is invaluable... especially if its when the lights are out!
Okay, apologies in advanced for my stupidity here. I feel like if you can walk me through this I should have a good understanding of how to navigate the TM's.

I'm in 9-2815-253-24.

on 3-2 (troubleshooting table) i see: Low Oil Pressure ....................................................................................................................................................3-5 \

flip to 3-5 and see:
9. LOW OIL PRESSURE.
Step 1. Check for improper grade of oil.
a. Refer to end item lubrication order. If proper grade of oil, do Step 2.
b. If improper grade of oil. Refer to paragraph 3-20.1 and change oil and filter.
Step 2. Check for engine running hot.
a. Refer to Engine Overheating, Malfunction 7, in this table.
b. If not running hot, repair or replace engine.

*insert joke about replacing engine and oil pressure still low*

What am I missing here?
 
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