First time Humvee owner, lifetime admirer w/ a Q...

[OrangeElvis]

Never replace the mechanical puller fan. It is the biggest disaster and mistake you can ever make. The electric fans do not create enough air flow and will never be able to make enough air flow with today’s technology. Be warned.

Yeah, wasn't me. Former owner did it. Hoping four fans will make the difference. Already bought aluminum radiator if I have cooling issues.

 

[OrangeElvis]

Yeah, wasn't me. Former owner did it. Hoping four fans will make the difference. Already bought aluminum radiator if I have cooling issues.

 

[OrangeElvis]

if it hasn't been linked yet, here is the manufacturer troubleshooting guide for the 200 amp system. Pretty easy to figure out if you know how to use a multimeter

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

Thank you!!! This is exactly what I need because I am an ignoramus when it comes to this stuff, lol. Love learning from "the right way" rather than mistakes.

 

[TOBASH]

Replace the puller fan immediately. Seriously.

 

[OrangeElvis]

There is a guy that made electric cooling fans work (or so he says)
What he did though was separated out every item in the cooling stack to different locations, and each of them got their own cooling fans.

The stock fan is designed to move something like 15k cfm of air.
I haven't found many electric fans that will move more than 2 -3k cfm of air.
It's also an old an inefficient engine and cooling design, so can't really be compared to the modern engines using electric cooling.

Any

Replace the puller fan immediately. Seriously.

I will search to see if there are threads on this. Sounds like it may be something I need to do... ***sigh***

 

[TOBASH]

Any

I will search to see if there are threads on this. Sounds like it may be something I need to do... ***sigh***

Kaskar and RWH will have all the parts you need. Others have converted to hydraulic clutch style.

If you don’t ford water than hydraulic clutch for the puller fan might be a good way to go.

 

[OrangeElvis]

Replace the puller fan immediately. Seriously.

Yeesh. No reinstalling mechanical fan threads that I could find, lol. Any suggestions?

I think I will just save up and do the mechanical fan reinstallation and replace the radiator and install electric pusher fan... Thanks for the emphatic recommendation!

 

[OrangeElvis]

Kaskar and RWH will have all the parts you need. Others have converted to hydraulic clutch style.

If you don’t ford water than hydraulic clutch for the puller fan might be a good way to go.

Explain as if you are talking to a 5th grader, lol - what is the advantage of a hydrologic clutch fan vs the OEM. I literally have a ford kit, and would hate to remove that option if there is not a big payoff for giving it up.

 

[Mogman]

I think what he meant was a thermal fan clutch like most civy vehicles use, the original was hydraulic

 

[OrangeElvis]

I think what he meant was a thermal fan clutch like most civy vehicles use, the original was hydraulic

Ah, thx!

 

[TOBASH]

I should have said a viscoelastic clutch.

 

[OrangeElvis]

I should have said a viscoelastic clutch.

Hey - I didn't think this was that kind of forum!

 

[OrangeElvis]

You are not the only one in Liberty Hill that has a HMMWV, there is another member on here.
I lived in Liberty Hill in the late 60s, early 70s, we had a crank telephone system and was on a party line with several other folks.
The intersection of 29 and 183 was a 4 way stop sign and we had one blinking light in Liberty Hill

Yes on the listed 50A but common wisdom is not to pull more than 15-20A MAX. and even then only intermittently
Take care and disconnect the batteries every time you do electrical work and be VERY careful of polarity and the alt/reg will have no issues.

A couple other things, any time you are working on the truck where you are switching the run switch on and off disconnect the TSU (temp sending unit) for the glow plugs, it is the round connector with several wires attached on the passenger side of the water cross over on the front of the engine.

Otherwise under normal conditions EVERY time you turn the run switch to OFF, wait at least 90 seconds before switching to run again or you can fry the glow plugs.

Wow - glad I went back to review this thread, as I missed this post the first time - thank you!

I am a lifetime Austin-area resident. Spent first 50 yrs in Austin before moving to LH 3 years ago. I live approx. 10 miles from the family ranch we had growing up on 1431. Great memories and yes, the area was sparsely populated we had a party line at our ranch, too lol. Packer Peets was a favorite stop on the way to the ranch, if you may remember it - 183/1431 intersection...

 

[OrangeElvis]

I think what he meant was a thermal fan clutch like most civy vehicles use, the original was hydraulic

So, I am leaning heavily towards removing electric fan and replacing with this: hydraulic fan clutch delete kit

I will need to order fan shroud as well and I see hummer parts guy has them as well as remanufactured regulators on sale, so I might get both from them for the free shipping...

Any thoughts on that particular fan?

 

[86humv]

So, I am leaning heavily towards removing electric fan and replacing with this: hydraulic fan clutch delete kit

I will need to order fan shroud as well and I see hummer parts guy has them as well as remanufactured regulators on sale, so I might get both from them for the free shipping...

Any thoughts on that particular fan?

I called Niehoff January.....asked about remanufactured regulators for 200 amp.....tech line said they
never herd of them.....they are a potted build.

 

[Westo]

So, head-scratcher here. I double-checked and yes, the light stays on when ignition/run switch are off... but BARELY. I took pictures with it fully lit with ignition on and switch set to run (but not started) and with everything off (portrait photo is ON & landscape photo is OFF):
View attachment 919602View attachment 919604

What does that even mean? It is BARELY stuck open, lol? Is there a way to "unstick" it - some kind of reset button?

Also, I am guessing this is what you meant by "start box" under the dash?:
View attachment 919605

That trans light behavior is the exact problem I had (along with trans in limp mode). It stayed on whenever the battery was connected but was super dim. Turned out to be a blown up capacitor or something in the TCM. It sounds like your transmission works though, so it might be something else.

 

[OrangeElvis]

That trans light behavior is the exact problem I had (along with trans in limp mode). It stayed on whenever the battery was connected but was super dim. Turned out to be a blown up capacitor or something in the TCM. It sounds like your transmission works though, so it might be something else.

I have heard there is a relay that can stick open, powering TCM all the time. I am working my way to that issue...

 

[OrangeElvis]

I called Niehoff January.....asked about remanufactured regulators for 200 amp.....tech line said they
never herd of them.....they are a potted build.

Thanks - sounds like I should go with a new one. There is one for sale on eBay listed as "new" - with a manufacture date of 2021...

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Guys, it’s a called a “viscous“ fan clutch, used in just about every thing with 4 wheels and an engine.

 

[Hummer Guy]

So, I am leaning heavily towards removing electric fan and replacing with this: hydraulic fan clutch delete kit

I will need to order fan shroud as well and I see hummer parts guy has them as well as remanufactured regulators on sale, so I might get both from them for the free shipping...

Any thoughts on that particular fan?

Best upgrade I made for the humvee, I've been having this fan on for the pass month now