First time Humvee owner, lifetime admirer w/ a Q...

[Westo]

I have heard there is a relay that can stick open, powering TCM all the time. I am working my way to that issue...

That's probably what it is. I read the older posts again and it looks like the light isn't on when it's running, which means it isn't what I had. The only thing that made me think of my issue was the dim light, but that could just be a dirty lens or something.

 

[OrangeElvis]

Best upgrade I made for the humvee, I've been having this fan on for the pass month now

Thank you for the feedback!

 

[OrangeElvis]

That's probably what it is. I read the older posts again and it looks like the light isn't on when it's running, which means it isn't what I had. The only thing that made me think of my issue was the dim light, but that could just be a dirty lens or something.

Well, now that I said that - yesterday the light was flickering while driving at first, then just stayed on, solidly lit. ***sigh***


I will take it out again this evening and see what I get, lol.

 

[Westo]

Well, now that I said that - yesterday the light was flickering while driving at first, then just stayed on, solidly lit. ***sigh***


I will take it out again this evening and see what I get, lol.

See if you can get it into the diagnostic mode. If it does you might find out what's causing the light, and if it doesn't then you almost certainly have a TCM problem. Here's a helpful guide to troubleshooting the TCM if you don't have it already.

 

[OrangeElvis]

See if you can get it into the diagnostic mode. If it does you might find out what's causing the light, and if it doesn't then you almost certainly have a TCM problem. Here's a helpful guide to troubleshooting the TCM if you don't have it already.

Thank you. I have checked it twice - once, after I accidentally connected the power lines to 24V and got code 53 among others - which put me into LIMP mode. After correcting the wiring mistake, I checked again and got NO codes (just 12 over and over).

 

[OrangeElvis]

Replace the puller fan immediately. Seriously.

Replaced electric fan with Black Dog hydraulic fan clutch delete kit upgrade. HUGE difference! I have electric "pusher" fan on top as well, but won't use it until I get my 120 Amp downcoverter 12V system installed - as I think former owner's 12V electric fan is what killed the regulator.

Just drove from central TX to Laredo in 100+ heat and never got above 205 driving 60-70 MPH in stretches. It was like sitting in a convection oven, lol but truck ran GREAT.

Cool front hit Tues night with big thunderstorm and drive home Wed was FANTASTIC! 70-80s degree weather most of the way on back roads. Beautiful hill country you don't get to see on the interstate...

 

[OrangeElvis]

Best upgrade I made for the humvee, I've been having this fan on for the pass month now

Can confirm - amazing performance.

Black Dog rep said while he hadn't actually tried water fording with this kit, he believed it "wouldn't be a problem"... Any idea?

 

[OrangeElvis]

If you are going to run a large 12V load you will need an inverter, do not unbalance your system with two batteries running in parallel in series with the other 12V battery which is what I think you are talking about, the 12V (14V tap) on that regulator should not be used for large 12V loads, as I said use a 24V-12V inverter instead, it is common wisdom that you cannot replace the mechanical fan with an electric one, the original mechanical fan move several times more air than the electric ones available.

So, I replaced temp gauge, flushed radiator thoroughly and installed new 195 degree thermostat in addition to replacing eletric fan with new upgraded Black Dog mechanical fan.

Now temperature gauge sits just under 180 degrees unless I push engine hard in 90's+ outside temps - where it gets around 200 degrees.

I have checked radiator/ thermostat housing temps w/ infrared and - other than a hot spot at the top of radiator - the gauge temp seems close to what infrared is telling me. The hot spot is 10-15 degrees hotter, which concerns me. Is that normal? When I got my gauge up to 195 or so, I pulled over and immediately opened hood and checked temp with infrared. Everything was in the 190-195 range, except hotspot, which was 208-9. It is the solid (not fins) metal outside top edge of radiator - and just a small area.

My concern about temps is centered around my gauge showing 175-180 degrees in normal driving conditions (60 MPH in 80-90 degree weather) when I would think thermostat would hold it at 195-200 degrees. If that is the case, then the hot spot may be accurate temp and 175-180 on temp gauge may actually be 195-200 in reality...

What do you think?

 

[Hummer Guy]

Replaced electric fan with Black Dog hydraulic fan clutch delete kit upgrade. HUGE difference! I have electric "pusher" fan on top as well, but won't use it until I get my 120 Amp downcoverter 12V system installed - as I think former owner's 12V electric fan is what killed the regulator.

Just drove from central TX to Laredo in 100+ heat and never got above 205 driving 60-70 MPH in stretches. It was like sitting in a convection oven, lol but truck ran GREAT.

Cool front hit Tues night with big thunderstorm and drive home Wed was FANTASTIC! 70-80s degree weather most of the way on back roads. Beautiful hill country you don't get to see on the interstate...

100% right on this, I've been using this fan since February and have driven the truck almost everyday since then, I can confirm my experience is the exact same

 

[Hummer Guy]

So, I replaced temp gauge, flushed radiator thoroughly and installed new 195 degree thermostat in addition to replacing eletric fan with new upgraded Black Dog mechanical fan.

Now temperature gauge sits just under 180 degrees unless I push engine hard in 90's+ outside temps - where it gets around 200 degrees.

I have checked radiator/ thermostat housing temps w/ infrared and - other than a hot spot at the top of radiator - the gauge temp seems close to what infrared is telling me. The hot spot is 10-15 degrees hotter, which concerns me. Is that normal? When I got my gauge up to 195 or so, I pulled over and immediately opened hood and checked temp with infrared. Everything was in the 190-195 range, except hotspot, which was 208-9. It is the solid (not fins) metal outside top edge of radiator - and just a small area.

My concern about temps is centered around my gauge showing 175-180 degrees in normal driving conditions (60 MPH in 80-90 degree weather) when I would think thermostat would hold it at 195-200 degrees. If that is the case, then the hot spot may be accurate temp and 175-180 on temp gauge may actually be 195-200 in reality...

What do you think?

I have the rear cylinder hose re route kit, I haven't actually check to see if it made a difference in the hotspot yet

 

[TOBASH]

Can confirm - amazing performance.

Black Dog rep said while he hadn't actually tried water fording with this kit, he believed it "wouldn't be a problem"... Any idea?

Unless you can turn off your fan, water fording is a bad idea. The fan will act like a screw propeller and pull itself into the radiator.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Unless you can turn off your fan, water fording is a bad idea. The fan will act like a screw propeller and pull itself into the radiator.

So I guess the new Geared Fan drive trucks can no longer go in the water? I mean….they use a viscous fan clutch Now on all new Hmmwv’s.

 

[OrangeElvis]

I have the rear cylinder hose re route kit, I haven't actually check to see if it made a difference in the hotspot yet

Sorry, forgot to mention former owner installed this kit (but was still having overheating issued because he only had electric puller fan).

 

[OrangeElvis]

Unless you can turn off your fan, water fording is a bad idea. The fan will act like a screw propeller and pull itself into the radiator.

Well, that sucks. No plans to ford, but I hate that it isn't an option in a pinch... well, I guess it IS an option - just a one-timer, lol.

 

[TOBASH]

So I guess the new Geared Fan drive trucks can no longer go in the water? I mean….they use a viscous fan clutch Now on all new Hmmwv’s.

Steve, good to hear from you.

A friend of mine just took his rig into the ocean and ripped up his radiator. Just sayin’.

I wonder if something in the design must have been changed to allow fording in the REV B and C units. What is in the revised TM?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Steve, good to hear from you.

A friend of mine just took his rig into the ocean and ripped up his radiator. Just sayin’.

I wonder if something in the design must have been changed to allow fording in the REV B and C units. What is in the revised TM?

Im not sure how to answer this question, but let me try and understand this….so only a hmmwv with a Hydraulic fan clutch can ford water crossings?
any other tactical vehicle just waits for the engineers to show up and build a bridge?
All tactical vehicles are left on the Landing craft except for ”old” hmmwvs with Hydraulic fan clutch’s?

FORDING KITS are standard on ALL USMC vehicles for Ship to shore operation, ARMY trucks DO NOT install Fording kits because they don’t generally perform ship to shore operations, this has nothing to do with crossing water obstacles on land.
The proper Fording procedures are and always have been in the -10 operators guide….

broken fan blades are from improper water entry….

 

[OrangeElvis]

So I guess the new Geared Fan drive trucks can no longer go in the water? I mean….they use a viscous fan clutch Now on all new Hmmwv’s.

viscous fan clutch should free wheel when it hits the water. The Black Dog clutch is fixed, so I may be screwed on fording. AI told me it's possible, but I don't like the idea of that at ALL.

Anyone know of an upgrade to viscous fan clutch for an A2 engine?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

viscous fan clutch should free wheel when it hits the water. The Black Dog clutch is fixed, so I am screwed on fording.

Anyone know of an upgrade to viscous fan clutch for an A2 engine?

no sir, that’s not how viscous fan clutchs work.

 

[OrangeElvis]

no sir, that’s not how viscous fan clutchs work.

My understanding is it free-wheels until set temp is reached, then engages. I would imagine you ford with engine at cooler temp and water will keep engine cool after entering. Is that incorrect?