dawico
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That is a good question. Searching for info on this I found two replacement valves, one was for 70 psi and one for 90 psi. That doesn't suggest that they can be adjusted. I am curious as well.
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Fixing Out of round Tires
- Thread starter dawico
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Csm Davis
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Well kinda right only the wreckers are listed at 90 psi all others are 70 psi. Also the TM can be wrong occasionally, check out your wheels before putting that much pressure in them guys and I will check on this with CSMS and see what they say.
Ford Mechanic
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2 of my 14.00's are stamped 155mph max
Csm Davis
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I started a different thread about this, dawico would you be so kind as to list which valves those are in it.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=133531
dawico
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Will do when I get back from vacation.
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As far as CTIS pressures, I checked my newly acquired, 2012 rebuild, 923A2 tonight. The placard/nameplate in the cab says 55 psi for highway pressure. I checked it with a gauge and, sure enough, after going from Cross Country to Highway, it read 55.
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There is an elusive diagnostic pigtail cable that connects between the controller and harness for pc access. I believe the pc software is downloadable online. Many parameters can be adjusted. The pigtail cable was part of an update kit that included a newer revision controller and some other goodies. I looked in the newer ice diag kits and the cable is not part of that.
The sidewall is only stating the TIRE manufactures recommended maximum pressure, not the wheel or vehicle manufacturer's. A ten ply on a pick up may say 80 psi max on the tire, but the door sticker only says to use 65 psi.
All the labels need to be read to come to the proper conclusion. Tire max pressure, wheel max pressure, and vehicle manufacture recommended pressure.
todds112
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Sure would be nice to have one of those cables. Surely there is a techno-geek among us who can create one...and don't call me Shirley.
dawico
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I just wanted to touch on this subject again.
My tires are still lumpy and I have had no luck finding a shop to shave them. I have a plan in mind to shave them myself and will post up my success or failure on the project.
My tires are still lumpy and I have had no luck finding a shop to shave them. I have a plan in mind to shave them myself and will post up my success or failure on the project.
Jason O
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I wonder how well a hand-held door power-planer would work on the tires?
dawico
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I looked at that option but the one we had handy had the motor hanging down.
The key is going to be keeping the tool stationary while spinning the tire.
Still working on my setup.
dawico
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Ok, I shaved 4 of my 6 tires yesterday with great success. I just ran out of time and will do the other two today.
The decent tires took about an hour each. The rough ones about two hours each.
I believe my setup is very simple and worked well. I took a beat up old sliding compound miter box that my dad had and adapted it. This saw flips both ways so the motor is up high and out of the way. This worked well as I could do one rear tire and flip the saw to do the other. All I really did was take the back off the sliding bars, pull the saw unit out, and slide it in the back. The saw itself is pinned down in the put away position. Then I strapped the base to a tool box for support. Jack up the axle, set the saw, and go.
I figured the slider would come in handy for adjustments but I didn't really use it. It was needed for depth clearance though. To adjust it I just moved the tool box. Light kicks to the box made cutting a little deeper easy to do.
I also followed the round profile of the tire. I didn't just go straight across. With my kicking the back of the box over for depth adjustments this was kind of a natural movement of the unit so that worked well too.
I just set the saw to shave the highest points on one edge of the tire and then kicked the back of the tool box over to cut a little deeper. Once it just barely shaved the lowest points then I pushed the unit in a little further (1/2" or 3/4") and started again.
Just take your time and don't get too agressive with the depth of cut. You don't want the saw to grab the tire and pull itself in or cut a big gouge out of the tire. Nice and easy.
I tilted the saw a little to give myself about a 45° cut on the tire surface and spun the tire into the blade (as opposed to away from the blade). I tried both and into the blade gave me better, smoother, and faster results.
I am very happy with the results of the setup and its simplicity. Besides rubber dust everywhere the saw can be returned to normal service.
I really hopes this helps somebody with the same issues. I know I had two tires that lost atleast 1/4" of tread off the high areas, and maybe more. I still feel like I will need to experiment with balancing fixes but this is a major step in smoothing out the ride.
The decent tires took about an hour each. The rough ones about two hours each.
I believe my setup is very simple and worked well. I took a beat up old sliding compound miter box that my dad had and adapted it. This saw flips both ways so the motor is up high and out of the way. This worked well as I could do one rear tire and flip the saw to do the other. All I really did was take the back off the sliding bars, pull the saw unit out, and slide it in the back. The saw itself is pinned down in the put away position. Then I strapped the base to a tool box for support. Jack up the axle, set the saw, and go.
I figured the slider would come in handy for adjustments but I didn't really use it. It was needed for depth clearance though. To adjust it I just moved the tool box. Light kicks to the box made cutting a little deeper easy to do.
I also followed the round profile of the tire. I didn't just go straight across. With my kicking the back of the box over for depth adjustments this was kind of a natural movement of the unit so that worked well too.
I just set the saw to shave the highest points on one edge of the tire and then kicked the back of the tool box over to cut a little deeper. Once it just barely shaved the lowest points then I pushed the unit in a little further (1/2" or 3/4") and started again.
Just take your time and don't get too agressive with the depth of cut. You don't want the saw to grab the tire and pull itself in or cut a big gouge out of the tire. Nice and easy.
I tilted the saw a little to give myself about a 45° cut on the tire surface and spun the tire into the blade (as opposed to away from the blade). I tried both and into the blade gave me better, smoother, and faster results.
I am very happy with the results of the setup and its simplicity. Besides rubber dust everywhere the saw can be returned to normal service.
I really hopes this helps somebody with the same issues. I know I had two tires that lost atleast 1/4" of tread off the high areas, and maybe more. I still feel like I will need to experiment with balancing fixes but this is a major step in smoothing out the ride.
dawico
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Here are some pictures of the setup.
By the way, this saw is available to anybody that wants to do this and can come get it. I don't want to deal with shipping it but it is free to use.
By the way, this saw is available to anybody that wants to do this and can come get it. I don't want to deal with shipping it but it is free to use.
Jason O
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Nice work! Have you taken the truck out for a test drive yet? I still have a bit of a shimmy at highway speed, but I think it can be corrected with ballance beads or fluid.
dawico
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Not yet. I still have two tires to shave. I have an hour drive Monday morning and I will report back after that.
My next step is balancing also.
From what I saw while shaving them I think I made a huge step in the right direction.
dawico
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Alright, now that they are all done I will give my findings on the tires in general on the shaving aspect.
I have three Goodyears and three Michelins on my truck. All six are close enough to the same age and tread wear for a general comparison.
The three Michelins were not too bad as far as flat spots and cupping go. One tire had barely even 1/16" of shaving to round it out. The other two didn't take much more than that.
The three Goodyears were a different story. All three had atleast 1/4" of tread removed in their worst areas to round them out. One was the worst by far and had obviously spent a serious amount of time on a truck with a bad shock. It was severely cupped and out of round. It took forever to shave it back into a circle.
So, if your truck has Goodyears on it and it bucks like a Bronco then this may be your problem.
Not that my findings mean all Goodyears will hold out of round and Michelins won't, it was just the case on my truck.
After doing this I am not surprised at how bad my truck was riding. I am very excited to test it on Monday and will report how it feels.
I have three Goodyears and three Michelins on my truck. All six are close enough to the same age and tread wear for a general comparison.
The three Michelins were not too bad as far as flat spots and cupping go. One tire had barely even 1/16" of shaving to round it out. The other two didn't take much more than that.
The three Goodyears were a different story. All three had atleast 1/4" of tread removed in their worst areas to round them out. One was the worst by far and had obviously spent a serious amount of time on a truck with a bad shock. It was severely cupped and out of round. It took forever to shave it back into a circle.
So, if your truck has Goodyears on it and it bucks like a Bronco then this may be your problem.
Not that my findings mean all Goodyears will hold out of round and Michelins won't, it was just the case on my truck.
After doing this I am not surprised at how bad my truck was riding. I am very excited to test it on Monday and will report how it feels.
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My buffing (shaving) and balancing experience (post #16 and #27).
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?72422-Bounce-bounce&p=903870&viewfull=1#post903870
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?72422-Bounce-bounce&p=929079&viewfull=1#post929079
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?72422-Bounce-bounce&p=903870&viewfull=1#post903870
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?72422-Bounce-bounce&p=929079&viewfull=1#post929079
dawico
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For $20 a tire you got a deal! I would have paid $40 a tire but I couldn't find anybody to do it.
Atleast now if I have to put my spare on I can shave it myself, or even new tires when the time comes.