Flare and Repair Brake Line?

[7Dust]

I am finally getting around to fixing a leaky wheel cyllinder on the rear axle.

Of course I cannot fix anything without breaking something else in the process.

While removing the brake line from the cylinder, I tweaked the line and it sheared at the fitting.

I would like to cut the line clean, put it into the fitting, and reflare it - BUT I do not know what to use to flare the end.

How do I flare the end? What do I use? Is this something I should be doing at all - or should I just be sourcing an entire hard line?

Pic attached.

 

[73m819]

get a DOUBLE flare tool set

as faw as a new line goes, depends on the condition of the line, or how much you can move the line so you can fit it up

 

[7Dust]

It sheared right at the fitting so only 1/2" is bad - maybe 3/4" after I cut the end clean with a tubing cutter.

 

[7Dust]

Got a double flare tool and gave it **** but had no luck. Waste of money. If anything requires any sort of finesse, I'll **** it up in short order.

Leaks at the fitting now.

I guess I'm going to be looking for a brake line. I need the one for the passenger side front-rear axle.

 

[AMX]

NAPA sells metal brake line sections.

 

[scoutmanadam]

when you used the flaring tool, how far in the holder did you have the line, if its not right it either puts to Little of a flare or over flares it and over stretches it

 

[jasonjc]

For a few buck you can get a new line with the ends already on it at any auto parts store.

 

[7Dust]

I think the flaring kit must be some chinese junk from O'Reiley or the line takes a funny sized flare tool.

The 5/16" insert fit the inside diameter of the tube BUT when I tried to use the 5/16" hole on the "holder", it would not grab the line - it was loose.

SO, I just grabbed the line with the 1/4" hole on the holder and used the 5/16" insert.

What happened is the flare looks kinda okay but the line has teeth marks from the holder and a very small fold in the tubing on each side because the 1/4" hole was a little toooo small.

I did follow the directions and left the tube out of the holder the thickness of the die. The flare came out kinda crappy but sorta okay. The holder didn't work right tho.


So now Ive cut the hose off twice and F'd it up twice.


Its getting kinda short so I guess I'll pull the line and take it to someone - but I'd rather get a used but good line at this point.

I doubt I could get an off the shelf hose from NAPA and not have to cut it to length anyway. I'll be in the same boat. PLUS - it would be all shiny or something and I don't want that for sure.

This sucks.

 

[Boss Doug]

I always put the tool in my vice and that seems to make it hold the tubing in place.

 

[m16ty]

Some of the cheap flaring tools won't make a good double flare. You can usually get by making single flares but they tend to deform on the doubles.

Like others have said, just go to the parts store and buy a line of the appropriate length. I've bought several for the deuce this way. I bought one 30" last week and cost me $2.00. You just have to bend it yourself. You can bend it by hand if the bends aren't too sharp. Just be careful not to kink it.

 

[Heavysteven]

Yep typical deuce try to fix one thing and break another. I just keep going down the rabbit hole. Hope u get it fixed

I'm interested if any know of a double flaring tool that they like. Any got a McMaster #

 

[kastein]

My double flaring tool is whatever brand they sell in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot. At least the clamp and the press are. They only sell a single flaring tool. I combined it with the double flaring buttons/dies out of a harbor freight double flaring kit (the rest of it was worthless) and it does pretty well. I have done countless 3/16" and some 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" line with it.

KEY things when double flaring -
* cut with a tubing cutter and deburr the inside of the tube, OR
* cut with a hacksaw perfectly straight across and lightly deburr, OR
* cut with a dremel cutoff wheel perfectly straight across and almost no deburring should be needed
* depth must be right as noted above
* lube with the same brake fluid you will be using in the system while you do the pressing
* remember to put the darned fitting on the line before you flare the tube!!!
* remember to put the darned fitting on the line THE RIGHT DIRECTION before you flare the tube!!!

Don't ask about those last two. Just don't ask.

 

[7Dust]

Okay - forget this flare business. I could probably get it done eventually with some practice but by that time I'd have cut the brake line so many times it would be too short to reach!

I don't want to use an off the shelf piece of tubing because I doubt I'll find one that fits the exact length I need. Also, Ive done this before on cars before and it always comes out functional - but my bends end up looking kind of shady.

I figure my money would go best for a new-made for ther application-line - SO I found this on Flea-bay:

1 M35 2 1/2 TON REAR AXLE BRAKE LINE 7529373 NOS | eBay

^^^ This looks like its for the rear-rear axle passenger side.

I need the front-rear rear axle passenger side. Ive sent a message to see if they have the one I need - but if not, is anyone familar enough to know if it is the same one just flipped 180 degrees or how similar/dissimilar they are?

 

[kastein]

you can generally find one within 4 inches or so of the right length. They have sizes all the way from 6 inches to 6 feet in 4-6 inch increments. If you can't find one the right length, you can always do what some jokingly call an "okie loop" in a longer line (i.e. put a loop in the longer line so it is the right length.) Not going to make restorers happy, but it will work and will give you no problems as long as you bend it carefully to avoid kinking it, you can get a tube bending tool for very cheap that will do nicely.

 

[m816Buch]

they have brake lines with a vinyl coating on them that is brownish tan or paint the line before you put it on

 

[Nonotagain]

Have you attempted measuring the length of the line from the wheel cylinder to the Banjo fitting?

Most auto parts stores sell tubes in various lengths. Napa sells "armored" line that has a spirial wrap around the line. You can use a tubing bender to re-route a tube that is a little too long by making a few joggles along the way, plus if you ever need to repair the line, you have extra material to work with.

A search for Bundy tubing will yield you a wealth of information.

 

[Katahdin]

Here's what I used to replace mine, the length is pretty close.

NAPA Armored Wrap Brake Lines:
51" BK 8131198
30" BK 8131196

I think if I did it again tho I'd try the hand bendable Poly-Armour lines.

 

[7Dust]

Here's what I used to replace mine, the length is pretty close.

NAPA Armored Wrap Brake Lines:
51" BK 8131198
30" BK 8131196

I think if I did it again tho I'd try the hand bendable Poly-Armour lines.

^^^ Those look pretty good if the NOS ones don't pan out.

The threading on the fittings was another issue I wasn't sure how to verify on an off the shelf tube.

Known good is - GOOD!

 

[73m819]

^^^ Those look pretty good if the NOS ones don't pan out.

The threading on the fittings was another issue I wasn't sure how to verify on an off the shelf tube.

Known good is - GOOD!

most are standard, take the old fiting with you, thread it into a female fitting at the store, just check the new line with the same female fitting

 

[kastein]

the armored spiral wrap is also known as "road salt trapper and corrosion enhancer" up here in the rust belt.