FLU 419 help!

bennett92

New member
5
5
3
Location
Shawnee OK
I recently bought a FLU 419 and love the heck out the back hoe and loader.... however, I cannot pull out the hydraulic tools switch to engage those on the side. it just doesnt move. Ive sprayed it with WD-40 and pried on it but dont want to break it. is there something im missing? next point, the remote switches back by the back hoe do not work, and EI doesnt have any for sale, any ideas where I could find them or how to repair them? unfortunately im far from being a mechanic myself...
 

profo

Active member
421
55
28
Location
jeanerette,la
I recently bought a FLU 419 and love the heck out the back hoe and loader.... however, I cannot pull out the hydraulic tools switch to engage those on the side. it just doesnt move. Ive sprayed it with WD-40 and pried on it but dont want to break it. is there something im missing? next point, the remote switches back by the back hoe do not work, and EI doesnt have any for sale, any ideas where I could find them or how to repair them? unfortunately im far from being a mechanic myself...

I haven't looked at mine but all of them are switchs the two in back,one for front bucket is a single pole double throw temporary on off on. The other is on off amazon sells some that snap right in that are similar as for the tool switch it's a pull on switch on off you can get that at napa. It breaks the voltage to the solenoid hydraulic valve behind cab
 

bennett92

New member
5
5
3
Location
Shawnee OK
Thanks so mucj for the help! I was ables to take apart the control box and cleaned up the wires, sprayed so wd40 on the electrical connections (thats a trick i learned from a trailer repair shop, works great).
After all that, it was the hydraulic cooling fan fuze that was blown for the front loader switch. I changed that and the buck started worked fine... then it cut out, and of course the 16 amp fuze was blown again. I checked the cooling fans and have never seen them turn on and am wondering if they are broken, causing the fuze to blow. Any ideas?
But still no rpm hi lo switch back by loader control, any idea how to trouble shoot that one?
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,553
1,522
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
You need to find the air leak and repair it. You should not drive the FLU419 with insufficient air pressure. The brakes are basically not functional without sufficient air pressure. Check the three brass drain valves on the air tanks. You should unscrew them and clean them. I actually took a short piece of copper tubing and bent it to direct air from my air compressor to blow out the inside of the air tanks. My front tank was full of trash. I kept blowing until nothing else came out. Have you downloaded and read the TMs? Do you have a copy of the Student Handout?
 

bennett92

New member
5
5
3
Location
Shawnee OK
You need to find the air leak and repair it. You should not drive the FLU419 with insufficient air pressure. The brakes are basically not functional without sufficient air pressure. Check the three brass drain valves on the air tanks. You should unscrew them and clean them. I actually took a short piece of copper tubing and bent it to direct air from my air compressor to blow out the inside of the air tanks. My front tank was full of trash. I kept blowing until nothing else came out. Have you downloaded and read the TMs? Do you have a copy of the Student Handout?
The TMs did not download on my phone when i found a link to them so inhave not read any of those yet. Do you have a copy of the student handout? I have not seen that.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
5,407
12,289
113
Location
Charlotte NC
The TMs did not download on my phone when i found a link to them so inhave not read any of those yet. Do you have a copy of the student handout? I have not seen that.
.
Quite often, the PDFs get downloaded on a phone into a strangely named folder. Sometimes you can spend more time hunting the folder than downloading the TM's too.

The Lube Manual has fluid capacities.
lube manual

The rest of them are linked below and that Student Handout is that last file in the string of links:
FLU Manuals
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,553
1,522
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Here is the Student Handout. Please also note that working on and using the FLU419 can be very dangerous for someone not familiar with the vehicle. As a start, you should read the TM 5-2420-224-10 manual, which is the Operators Manual. Ask about anything you don't understand.
 

Attachments

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,046
612
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Ive sprayed it with WD-40 and pried on it but dont want to break it. is there something im missing?
After reading the TMs, and maybe the owners thread (where all these things have been addressed), you should consider running over your can of WD-40 and get something that works.

The world of Unimogs, and especially the FLUs, is not a Better Homes and Gardens environment.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,431
921
113
Location
mid- michigan
After reading the TMs, and maybe the owners thread (where all these things have been addressed), you should consider running over your can of WD-40 and get something that works.

The world of Unimogs, and especially the FLUs, is not a Better Homes and Gardens environment.
I've had good results with Aero Kroil , but most people won't spend the money
1651546511084.png
 

319cssb

Active member
975
177
43
Location
Easley SC
I use a product called 'Deoxit' to clean and deoxidize electrical contacts and switches. on my truck there were rubber lines on my front axle, that were dry rotted and leaked air. replacing them helped.
 

peakbagger

Active member
632
174
43
Location
northern nh
In cased you are still chasing the dreaded fan fuse, be aware that the circuit is only energized when a temperature switch in the hydraulics is above a certain temp. You need to jump it out to do any testing with a cold SEE. Secondly there is service advisory for these hydraulic fans. The motors were installed with the wires going inside the motor housing facing up. Sun gets at the rubber grommet and then water leaks into the can shorting out the motor. The fuse will not blow until the hydraulics get up to temp. I have not heard of anyone who has successfully saved a dead fan motor. Hayden reportedly still sells the motors. I just retrofit a pair of truck radiator cooling fans. I listed part numbers long ago on one of these threads.

Note the red 15 amp fuse feeds most of the circuits in the back. The switches on the back were also covered by a service advisory basically saying they woudl corrode and replace as needed.

BTW, Some other SEE person collected all the service advisories once upon a time. I bound them up in PDF and added a table of contents. its stored in the Misc Tech Manuals subforum
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks