FLU 419 help!

[bennett92]

I recently bought a FLU 419 and love the heck out the back hoe and loader.... however, I cannot pull out the hydraulic tools switch to engage those on the side. it just doesnt move. Ive sprayed it with WD-40 and pried on it but dont want to break it. is there something im missing? next point, the remote switches back by the back hoe do not work, and EI doesnt have any for sale, any ideas where I could find them or how to repair them? unfortunately im far from being a mechanic myself...

 

[profo]

I recently bought a FLU 419 and love the heck out the back hoe and loader.... however, I cannot pull out the hydraulic tools switch to engage those on the side. it just doesnt move. Ive sprayed it with WD-40 and pried on it but dont want to break it. is there something im missing? next point, the remote switches back by the back hoe do not work, and EI doesnt have any for sale, any ideas where I could find them or how to repair them? unfortunately im far from being a mechanic myself...

I haven't looked at mine but all of them are switchs the two in back,one for front bucket is a single pole double throw temporary on off on. The other is on off amazon sells some that snap right in that are similar as for the tool switch it's a pull on switch on off you can get that at napa. It breaks the voltage to the solenoid hydraulic valve behind cab

 

[bennett92]

Thanks so mucj for the help! I was ables to take apart the control box and cleaned up the wires, sprayed so wd40 on the electrical connections (thats a trick i learned from a trailer repair shop, works great).
After all that, it was the hydraulic cooling fan fuze that was blown for the front loader switch. I changed that and the buck started worked fine... then it cut out, and of course the 16 amp fuze was blown again. I checked the cooling fans and have never seen them turn on and am wondering if they are broken, causing the fuze to blow. Any ideas?
But still no rpm hi lo switch back by loader control, any idea how to trouble shoot that one?

 

[bennett92]

Also, this loght never turns off, is this due to lack of air pressure, i can hear air leaking

 

[glcaines]

You need to find the air leak and repair it. You should not drive the FLU419 with insufficient air pressure. The brakes are basically not functional without sufficient air pressure. Check the three brass drain valves on the air tanks. You should unscrew them and clean them. I actually took a short piece of copper tubing and bent it to direct air from my air compressor to blow out the inside of the air tanks. My front tank was full of trash. I kept blowing until nothing else came out. Have you downloaded and read the TMs? Do you have a copy of the Student Handout?

 

[bennett92]

You need to find the air leak and repair it. You should not drive the FLU419 with insufficient air pressure. The brakes are basically not functional without sufficient air pressure. Check the three brass drain valves on the air tanks. You should unscrew them and clean them. I actually took a short piece of copper tubing and bent it to direct air from my air compressor to blow out the inside of the air tanks. My front tank was full of trash. I kept blowing until nothing else came out. Have you downloaded and read the TMs? Do you have a copy of the Student Handout?

The TMs did not download on my phone when i found a link to them so inhave not read any of those yet. Do you have a copy of the student handout? I have not seen that.

 

[Mullaney]

The TMs did not download on my phone when i found a link to them so inhave not read any of those yet. Do you have a copy of the student handout? I have not seen that.

.
Quite often, the PDFs get downloaded on a phone into a strangely named folder. Sometimes you can spend more time hunting the folder than downloading the TM's too.

The Lube Manual has fluid capacities.
lube manual

The rest of them are linked below and that Student Handout is that last file in the string of links:
FLU Manuals

 

[Guyfang]

Have you downloaded and read the TMs? Do you have a copy of the Student Handout?

This suggestion is one to heed. If you want to fix anything, you need to read these documents. Without, you are in for a real long haul.

 

[porkysplace]

Have you downloaded and read the TMs? Do you have a copy of the Student Handout?

This suggestion is one to heed. If you want to fix anything, you need to read these documents. Without, you are in for a real long haul.

 

[glcaines]

Here is the Student Handout. Please also note that working on and using the FLU419 can be very dangerous for someone not familiar with the vehicle. As a start, you should read the TM 5-2420-224-10 manual, which is the Operators Manual. Ask about anything you don't understand.

 

[The FLU farm]

Ive sprayed it with WD-40 and pried on it but dont want to break it. is there something im missing?

After reading the TMs, and maybe the owners thread (where all these things have been addressed), you should consider running over your can of WD-40 and get something that works.

The world of Unimogs, and especially the FLUs, is not a Better Homes and Gardens environment.

 

[porkysplace]

After reading the TMs, and maybe the owners thread (where all these things have been addressed), you should consider running over your can of WD-40 and get something that works.

The world of Unimogs, and especially the FLUs, is not a Better Homes and Gardens environment.

I've had good results with Aero Kroil , but most people won't spend the money

 

[The FLU farm]

For electrical I use various products, including but not limited to, CRC stuff.
When a penetrant is needed, nothing seems to beat 50/50 aceton and ATF.

 

[bennett92]

thank you everyone for the help! Ill be sure to do some reading up of those manuals!

 

[319cssb]

I use a product called 'Deoxit' to clean and deoxidize electrical contacts and switches. on my truck there were rubber lines on my front axle, that were dry rotted and leaked air. replacing them helped.

 

[peakbagger]

In cased you are still chasing the dreaded fan fuse, be aware that the circuit is only energized when a temperature switch in the hydraulics is above a certain temp. You need to jump it out to do any testing with a cold SEE. Secondly there is service advisory for these hydraulic fans. The motors were installed with the wires going inside the motor housing facing up. Sun gets at the rubber grommet and then water leaks into the can shorting out the motor. The fuse will not blow until the hydraulics get up to temp. I have not heard of anyone who has successfully saved a dead fan motor. Hayden reportedly still sells the motors. I just retrofit a pair of truck radiator cooling fans. I listed part numbers long ago on one of these threads.

Note the red 15 amp fuse feeds most of the circuits in the back. The switches on the back were also covered by a service advisory basically saying they woudl corrode and replace as needed.

BTW, Some other SEE person collected all the service advisories once upon a time. I bound them up in PDF and added a table of contents. its stored in the Misc Tech Manuals subforum

 

[319cssb]

@peakbagger so where is this temp switch located?

 

[The FLU farm]

On top of the cooler.

 

[glcaines]

I've found the best way to test the cooler fan circuit is to blow hot air from a heat gun towards the sensor. This tests everything in the circuit.

 

[319cssb]

Do both fans come on at the same temp? I just saw one spinning