FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

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peakbagger

Member
501
5
18
Location
northern nh
Have them made up by a good hydraulic supply house. Its highly likely that any NOS hoses have been sitting on shelves for 30 years in unknown conditions. There are better hoses made today than 30 years ago. Sure, separate hoses that might fit pop up on Ebay on occasion but many of the folks posting them appear to come up with pricing that the government was willing to pay for.
 
Sti

Still looking for the hyd hoses for both the Front loader and the Rear backhoe for my Unimog SEE.
PS moved to FL panhandle.
I just go to my nearest tractor dealer (Kubota, in my case). I bring the old hose and tell them I need the exact same thing (same length, same fittings). They always come through with an exact fit at a reasonable price. They can usually make the FL4 lines same-day, but often need to order fittings for the backhoe lines.

I agree with the above replies...get them made with modern materials and technology. It may even be less expensive than hunting for NOS items. I usually prefer NOS, but in the case of rubber which will decay over time -- even if unused -- I go for new.

Hope that helps.
 

Speedwoble

Member
416
5
18
Location
New Holland, PA
Sti

Still looking for the hyd hoses for both the Front loader and the Rear backhoe for my Unimog SEE.
PS moved to FL panhandle.
The case dealer will have the hoses for the backhoe, part numbers are in the TM’s. They will not be old, but they will be expensive. The backhoe hoses.have steel sleeves mid hose for fastening that I have not seen all hydraulic shops have. If you don’t add them, you will need to develop a different retention. Also, my loader had “anti-chaffing” sleeves on them which reduces UV degradation.
 

love a cummins

New member
14
0
1
Location
columbus IN
can anyone tell me if $9500 for a running useable machine is a good price? it is dirty and has small-ish issues but is functional. I have talked to an ex mechanic for the army, he has a lot of experience working on the SEE and his advise is that unless I enjoy working on it constantly that I should not get it. I have a lot of small work. not dig
 

Speedwoble

Member
416
5
18
Location
New Holland, PA
can anyone tell me if $9500 for a running useable machine is a good price? it is dirty and has small-ish issues but is functional. I have talked to an ex mechanic for the army, he has a lot of experience working on the SEE and his advise is that unless I enjoy working on it constantly that I should not get it. I have a lot of small work. not dig
I'm torn. I didn't pay that much and I wouldn't, but I wouldn't sell mine for less than $15K. The last few I have seen sell on the surplus auctions have gone for well over $15k, but there are fools out there. Mine has not needed constant work, but it does need little things, and there is a certain amount of deferred repairs I am putting off. It is not pleasant to get into and out of if you are doing a lot of work around a farm. It doesn't make a great loader because of the suspension. I recently tried to lift and move a flail mower off a trailer with it and the self levelling bucket turned that into a fiasco. I think you would be better off with a real tractor for $9500 if you won't be leaving the farm. The advantage of the FLU is the 50mph+ road speed and it has many compromises in other areas to achieve that.
 

The FLU farm

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,620
11
38
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The advantage of the FLU is the 50mph+ road speed and it has many compromises in other areas to achieve that.
Meanwhile, mine stays in Low range and I couldn't care less if its top speed was 5 mph.

To me, the SEE is so much more fun than a regular tractor or backhoe. Now, if I used it commercially it would be a different story.
But I'm not, so the learning expperience and fun factor easily outweighs the SEE's quirks.
 

natrgatr

New member
21
5
3
Location
Columbia City, IN
We’ve used ours for digging a 48’x 38’ x 10’ basement, deconstructing huge barns, skidding logs, transporting/loading many things. I wouldn’t trade it for anything. I think $9500 is a good price with no major problems. Once you work the kinks out, maintenance is not bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

rtrask

Member
189
2
18
Location
Littleton, Colorado
I finally got back after the SEE this weekend. I saw that the alcohol reservoir was empty, and refilled it. After running the SEE to get it warmed up I shut it down. I started hearing what sounded like the SEE was boiling over. I tracked it down to the alcohol reservoir. I suspect I have found my slow air leak, or at least one of them and from the sound of it, maybe not a slow leak. What do you all think is my best course forward? Is there a kit I can put into it, buy a replacement, or should I look for an alternative air drier?
 

The FLU farm

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,620
11
38
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Why worry about the alky injection in the first place? Your climate can't be that different from mine, right?

I haven't filled the reservoir on the Winter SEE for years now, and the Summer SEE doesn't even have a reservoir (after I stole it and put it on the Winter SEE). I don't think I've ever filled it on the HMMH, come to think of it.

Granted, I use the Summer SEE and the HMMH less than I do the Winter SEE in the winter, but I don't understand why functional but empty systems would be any different than a non existent one.

But it does sound like you have an air leak to tend to. Maybe just turning the valve off?
 

peakbagger

Member
501
5
18
Location
northern nh
I finally got back after the SEE this weekend. I saw that the alcohol reservoir was empty, and refilled it. After running the SEE to get it warmed up I shut it down. I started hearing what sounded like the SEE was boiling over. I tracked it down to the alcohol reservoir. I suspect I have found my slow air leak, or at least one of them and from the sound of it, maybe not a slow leak. What do you all think is my best course forward? Is there a kit I can put into it, buy a replacement, or should I look for an alternative air drier?
I still havent made the conversion to an air dryer but have all the major parts but have not spent the time to get all the adapter fittings for the piping. My newer 1300 series ex German military came stock with an air dryer but I think it still has an alcohol injector. My limited unstanding is in very cold conditions both may be needed. As long as the unit meets the pressure rating any alcohol injector can work on the system but the nice thing with the SEE design is its got a built in bypass valve for non freezing conditions. Atkinson & Vos sells alcohol injectors that sort of look like the SEE unit but not identical.

I have received feedback that a downside for installing an air dryer in place of alcohol injector is that the distance from the engine air compressor and the air dryer is far shorter than on the 1300. This could lead to exceeding the temperature rating of the desiccant media. I haven't checked if its an issue in my climate but I doubt it.

As to if you need to dry air it really depends on the temps you are working in and the weather conditions. I you follow the ops procedures and drain the air tanks after use and see water coming out, it means that there is water in the system that would have frozen overnight if you hand not drained it. My guess is the most likely spot for a freeze up is the air regulator valve. Its a low point on the system. It does blow off air on occasion so that will keep large volumes of water out of it. Once the air leaves the regulator its going to cool quickly and condense into liquid and end up in the air tanks. Once it starts freezing in the tanks I do not think its going to thaw on its own if the temps stay cold.
 
Last edited:

The FLU farm

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,620
11
38
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I have received feedback that a downside for installing an air dryer in place of alcohol injector is that the distance from the engine air compressor and the air dryer is far shorter than on the 1300. This could lead to exceeding the temperature rating of the desiccant media. I haven't checked if its an issue in my climate but I doubt it.
That's easy enough to work around, by running a longer feed line between the two.
 

peakbagger

Member
501
5
18
Location
northern nh
I looked at that, the key is not to make a bend that can possibly trap water upstream of the alcohol injector. I did not find a good way to do that. If I did end up with low point I would need to put a drain in it.
 

rtrask

Member
189
2
18
Location
Littleton, Colorado
Why worry about the alky injection in the first place? Your climate can't be that different from mine, right?

I haven't filled the reservoir on the Winter SEE for years now, and the Summer SEE doesn't even have a reservoir (after I stole it and put it on the Winter SEE). I don't think I've ever filled it on the HMMH, come to think of it.

Granted, I use the Summer SEE and the HMMH less than I do the Winter SEE in the winter, but I don't understand why functional but empty systems would be any different than a non existent one.

But it does sound like you have an air leak to tend to. Maybe just turning the valve off?
Turning the valve off does not help, it still bubbles out through the reservoir. If I remove it entirely, that could solve the issue with the air leak. Depending on the expense of the alternatives that maybe the route I take, but it would likely require more work to get right, than it would take to just fix it.
 
Last edited:

Pinsandpitons

Member
113
1
18
Location
Central Washington
There seems to be a discussion going on and I don't want to hijack, but I'm working on a project and would like to know from FLUfarm at what rpm he thinks his snow thrower operates best. Both the thrower and the auger parts if possible. I'm guessing about 1700 rpm for the thrower and something like 250 rpm for the auger.
 

rtrask

Member
189
2
18
Location
Littleton, Colorado
I still havent made the conversion to an air dryer but have all the major parts but have not spent the time to get all the adapter fittings for the piping. My newer 1300 series ex German military came stock with an air dryer but I think it still has an alcohol injector. My limited unstanding is in very cold conditions both may be needed. As long as the unit meets the pressure rating any alcohol injector can work on the system but the nice thing with the SEE design is its got a built in bypass valve for non freezing conditions. Atkinson & Vos sells alcohol injectors that sort of look like the SEE unit but not identical.

I have received feedback that a downside for installing an air dryer in place of alcohol injector is that the distance from the engine air compressor and the air dryer is far shorter than on the 1300. This could lead to exceeding the temperature rating of the desiccant media. I haven't checked if its an issue in my climate but I doubt it.

As to if you need to dry air it really depends on the temps you are working in and the weather conditions. I you follow the ops procedures and drain the air tanks after use and see water coming out, it means that there is water in the system that would have frozen overnight if you hand not drained it. My guess is the most likely spot for a freeze up is the air regulator valve. Its a low point on the system. It does blow off air on occasion so that will keep large volumes of water out of it. Once the air leaves the regulator its going to cool quickly and condense into liquid and end up in the air tanks. Once it starts freezing in the tanks I do not think its going to thaw on its own if the temps stay cold.
Thanks for the info, I knew you had an air dryer from old posts, but your last post on it was a long time ago so I assumed that you had installed it by now. Based on this statement "My limited understanding is in very cold conditions both may be needed" I guess I am less inclined to install an air dryer. I also live in the actual Midwest, and probably the reason the FLU farm gets away with no alcohol is that we have really low humidity especially in the winter. I saw that EI has a replacement alcohol injector for $211 which seems steep for what it is. I have not been able to find any kind of kit so that I could repair the one I have. I wonder if I could just find sufficient "O" rings to get it to seal properly? I think my next step is to disassemble it and use my calipers to look for replacement "O" rings to see if that will do the trick.

Thanks again for your help.
 
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